Cheap/free mods

[piercedtiger]

I thought I'd start a thread for "budget" mods for those with an itch to do SOMETHING, but not a lot of money on hand. Or lots of spare parts, tools, paint, etc in the garage.

I'll add pics and how-to's as I have time to get pictures and such. Feel free to post up any you have done. Maybe this can be one place for all of them.

Here's a little something that might help all of you before working on rusted nuts and bolts!

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than anycommercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it withequally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good asKroil for 20% of the price.ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Gen1 Links:
Toyota Buildups And Information
Tech Write-Ups (Staging Area, & More Articles In The Wiki) - YotaTech Forums
Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation - how to: factory LED/Glass Break Sensor...
Toyota 4x4, 4WD, 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Mini, T100, Tundra, Surf, HiLux, Tacoma Section on 4x4Wire
Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation - Free alarm mod for 03 & 04 Tacomas
FYI: A/C & Defrost Mod (TTORA)

From Janster based on her 96:

Ebrake adjustment:
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...adjustment.htm

Water pump install:
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha.../WaterPump.htm

Steering rack bushing replacement
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods...eeringBush.htm

2.5" Cornbred lift spacers install w/ AAL
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...rnbredLift.htm

2.5" Daystar lift spacer install
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...ft/Daystar.htm

Oxygen Sensor replacement
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...placement.html

Clutch Pedal bushing replacement
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...tchBushing.htm

Blinker conversion
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...n/blinker.html

Gen2 DIY's and guides:
DIY: Wiring after-market lights - Tacoma World Forums
DIY: OEM Cruise Control - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation
OEM Intermitted Wipers DIY - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation
2005 Tacoma-Writeup on door panel removal - CustomTacos.com Forum
Installing AAL's by Chris4x4
Wire Diagram for Anytime Foglight mod by Crom
Bed rail attachment hardware
DIY : How to change sparkplugs 2TR-FE
Clutch replacement

Mods:

1. Airing up the spare tire made easy
2. Extra D-Rings
3. Locker Anytime
4. Maglite seat mount
5. Foglights on anytime
   
6. Day Time Running Lights
7. Black Head Light Mod (BHLM)
8. Black Grill Surround
9. Redneck 6spd Hand rest
10. Hood Struts
11. 12V Bed Outlet
12. Budget OBA Setup
13. Cup holder LED's Another write here with actual instructions as well as pictures by briangp
14. Tailgate Reinforcement
15. Relocating the 7-pin
16. Keyless Entry Beep
17. Home Made Bed Extender
18. Bed Lights ----- Wiring them to come on with door unlock, off with lock here. (And on with door open, off with door close like dome light.)
19. Bed Pocket lights
20. Illuminated 4x4 Switch
    
21. LED for illuminated 4WD switch
22. Turning off ABS, VSC, TRAC
23. Disable Seatbelt Warning Chime
    
24. Rear Differential Breather Relocation
25. Rear diff breather-different view
26. Map lights on with dome light
27. Hi-Lift Bed Mount
28. Secondary Air Filter Removal
29. Locking Rear Sliding Window
30. Alternating Turn Signal/Side Markers (easier way at #45)
31. Wheel Painting - brought to you by TuRDTACO
32. Bed Storage Compartment Locks
33. Alternate way for locker anytime
34. Cheap traction bars
35. In Cab 110v outlets
36. Mounting a 285 (or 33") spare tire
37. Fog Light Indicator
38. Cabin Air Filter
39. Cigarette lighter plug always on Another way here: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...b-sr5-12-volt/
40. Access Cab Rear Seat Cover - Seat Down Position
41. Engine Bay Light
42. Engine Bay Light - Alternative option
43. Auxiliary reverse lights
44. Mud Flap Modification
45. Parking lights as Turn signals (No-relay method)
46. Using Defrost without the A/C
47. Adjusting inside rear mirror
48. OEM Intermittent wiper install
49. Secure Locking Gas Cap
50. Center Console Lights
51. Blacked out tail lights
52. Double Cab Short Box Bed storage
53. Tranny cooler for non-tow package guys and gals
54. Brighter stock reverse lights
55. LED dome/map lights
56. Heated mirrors - OEM version here.
57. Quick bed mat mod
58. Blacking out chrome bumpers with bedliner
59. Bed rail blocks
60. 48 LED Dome light
61. Brinks spare tire cable lock set
62. Build you own console vault
63. Tailgate theft deterrent (hose clamp mod)
64. Short Throw Clutch
65. driveline vibration fix write up..................may work for you too.
66. $7 Bed Extender Security Mod
67. 09 Style backup camera install (>$100 for parts, but a nice mod nonetheless)
68. LOCK/UNLOCK Chirp for DTRL and Alternating turn signal modders
69. Footwell/cupholder interior accent led project (AKA Fighter Pilot Cockpit Mod)
70. Tailgate Cable Locks
71. DIY Lo-Jack/Vehicle tracking
72. Battery clamp mod
73. Low beams on with high beams
74. Weather proofing the Pop-N-Lock tailgate lock
75. Reusing cabin air filters
76. Oil Pan Heater
77. Hella 700ff HID Conversion
78. Coin Tray Gun Holster
79. DTRL toggle switch mod (stealth mode)
80. Engine Kill Switch
81. auxiliary side turn signal repeaters / markers
82. Fishing rod holder
83. DIY Washable cab air filter
84. Hood alignment
85. How to wire a stock auto-dimming mirror
86. Under hood lights
87. Radar Detector on with Ignition Power
88. Team window flag bed mounts
89. 09+ Always-on rear view camera
90. Tailgate electrical box
91. Radio on after ignition is turned off
92. Cheap center console light
93. Fog Lights "a la Caribe Style" - Brought to you by caribe makaira PM him with questions please.
94. How To: Secondary Stand Alone Fuse Block Install
95. How To - Inverter 400W anytime mod
96. DIY AUX Input in a 2005-2008 Factory Head Unit
97. Auto OEM Fog lights for 2nd gen tacos without fogs
98. Aiming your OEM fog lights
99. ABS Kill Switch mod for 05+ Offroad EASY WAY! (PICS)
100. 09 Anytime-On Rear View Camera with Switch on Dash mod
101. LED lighting door locks
102. No chime mod - Original thread here.
103. Hidden CB install
104. Simple Scangauge II Mounting Mod
105. Oil Catch Can Install Guide
106. Hood scoop removal and dis-assembly

Download Toyota Factory Service Manuals here if you want them.
Toyota Tacoma FSM Page

Other manual downloads:
Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org

Headlight Adjustment

Easiest plasti dip removal

[piercedtiger]

As per discussions in http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/wheels-tires/4832-airing-up-spare.html the spare tire can be flipped so you can reach the valve stem when the annoying TPMS light comes on and the other 4 tires are fine.

[piercedtiger]

Extra d-rings in the bed have been a life saver for me! With a short bed I tend to have to stack things higher so having 6 tie down points help a LOT!

I used these.



Actual Product:
http://www.trailer-parts-forless.com.../10090016.html

Main page (since there's no "search" option, and they can be hard to find):
http://www.trailer-parts-forless.com.../10090010.html

Cheaper online store:
http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/...r-500-3752.cfm

Thread on TN where I first wrote about it:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t131835.html

Tools required:

• #55 Torx socket for impact wrench
• impact wrench (nothing less will break these bastards loose!)
• drill - to enlarge the hole for in the ring for the bed bolt
• grinder to flatten a side of the washer to fit in the d-ring -OR- hammer the washer on the bolt down passed the lock rings and put it under the d-ring
• knife to cut the bed mat so they are accessible

[piercedtiger]

How I cut the washer to fit over the D-Rings:



Original D-Ring:


Hole drilled out to fit bed bolt:



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Just take out the bed bolts (using #55 Torx and impact wrench), knock the washer down past the lock rings (or cut like I did), enlarge the hole for the bolt, put the bolt through the rings, put the washer on if you took it off, bolt back down. Then use! They are rated for 400lbs IIRC, and I've never had a problem using one or more ratchet strap with them for almost 2 years. Haven't rusted either with my bed covered most of the time.

[piercedtiger]

Not mine, but thanks to TacoGrande on TN and a few other sites.

Only cost is a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) relay. Radio Shack sells them for under $10 IIRC. I used Radioshack Model: 275-217. http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2049721



My relay:


EDIT:

If you are using the Radioshack relay #2750218 then refer to this thread http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...d-problem.html
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...22&tab=summary

Per db67fm this is the color code for the above mentioned relay:

1- Green / Black
2- Violet
3- Violet
4- Pink
5- Green
6- Blue
7- Red/Black
8- Ground

[piercedtiger]

Put a Maglite (or similarly shaped flashlight) on the driver's seat in easy reach getting out or opening the door. Do this instead of using the Toyota mount behind the driver-rear seat that rattles and makes you unload that seat, fold it, and then grab it.

Maglite makes a wall mount bracket, and there are similar mounts out there you can find.

I lined up the brackets, drilled through the plastic side panel on the seat, and used 2 5/8" rivets to mount each one.




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[tacomaman06]

Originally Posted by piercedtiger

Put a Maglite (or similarly shaped flashlight) on the driver's seat in easy reach getting out or opening the door. Do this instead of using the Toyota mount behind the driver-rear seat that rattles and makes you unload that seat, fold it, and then grab it.

Maglite makes a wall mount bracket, and there are similar mounts out there you can find.

I lined up the brackets, drilled through the plastic side panel on the seat, and used 2 5/8" rivets to mount each one.




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and if anyone is interested, you can find this "kit" at sams club for around $20. thats where i got mine. it came with the big maglite(3 d cell batts) batteries and clips/brackets, and a mini mag lite(2 c batts) and batts...and you can get clips to fit the mini's at most hardware stores. also....you can do a led upgrade for the maglites as well.

[2003greenbean]

great start to a great thread

[piercedtiger]

Several ways to do this, but this one was the easiest for me, and I haven't had them come on 4-hours after turning the ignition off like other methods cause. Apparently at least one other method ties into some ignition or emissions circuit that turns on 4 hours after the truck is turned off to deal with emissions so the fogs come on for a few minutes. I parked in front of my living room window for a year after doing this and never saw them come on once so.....

Tools/items needed:

• wire stripper
• 1 quick splice
• 1 female blade connector
• 6" of wire
• drill/bit same diameter as wire
• shrink tube/electrical tape to reinforce crimp connection (optional)

1. Locate the green wire on the plug in the pic
2. splice into it
3. run the wire to the fog light relay through a hole to keep it low and not hit the cover
4. crimp on the female blade connector onto the wire
5. pull the fog relay and bend the terminal in the pic to the side
6. put the female blade connector onto the bent terminal on the fog relay
7. replace fog relay

NOTE: The 2012 relay is located in a different position


This is how the relay tab is bent:


Edit:
Yes, this will allow you to turn the fog lights on or off whenever you want using the fog light switch as long as the key is turned to ACC or ON. Doesn't matter if headlights are on, off, low beam or high beam.

To help reduce confusion, this is what a quick splice looks like:

[piercedtiger]

I wanted Day Time Running Lights for a little more visibility without the headlights on and to be a bit different. There's another one on TN by Toku that uses the OEM DTRL relay, but that cost $50 and they turn off when the headlights come on. I like the looks of this way better, and it was free!

Followed the idea here, but did it simpler.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t164710.html

I didn't buy the adapter he did. I just stripped half an inch off the wire, twisted it, folded it in half and jammed it in the 3rd hole with the harness unplugged from the bulb assembly.

Parts/tools needed:

• wire strippers/pocket knife/teeth
• 4-5ft of wire (to be safe, not sure how much I used. cut to fit)
• 2 quick splices

Splice into green wire on the running lights (small lights outside corner of headlight assemble), pull the rubber plug out of the 3rd hole on the turn signal plug, unplug the bulb harness, jam the stripped end of wire in that hole, seal with glue (hot melt, silicon, whatever), and plug it back onto the bulb assembly.

Wire in third plug.


Lights on





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[piercedtiger]

This mod is a little time consuming, but reading up on it takes longer than doing it!

Several links and pics here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t106329.html

Key points:

• preheat oven to 300F and TURN IT OFF
• take out bulbs (I just took out the wire harness and left the whole thing hanging on the truck, bulbs and all)
• remove all screws from light assembly
• put headlight on a piece of cardboard so it doesn't melt to the rack (don't know if required, but too many people have f'd this up....)
• put headlights in for 10 minutes for glue to soften
• gently pull the assembly apart
• take screws out of chrome surround to remove and paint
• paint 2 to 3 coats and let dry over night (some have done less time and the fumes from the paint curing fogged the lense)
• use wax paper or newspaper strips along the edge of the surround to avoid scratching paint while putting it back in the housing
• put screws back in surround, place 2 halves of headlight back together and reverse the procedure to open them
• put a bead of silicon around the edge of the 2 halves after it cools so moisture doesn't get in and fog the lense

While you have it open you can do the clear headlight mod as well by removing the 2 amber/yellow lenses and leaving them out during reassembly. Or, you can tape them off to leave the chrome for a different look.

Pictures of it done:


After BHLM and DRL mod



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[piercedtiger]

With the left over $5 can of Krylon Fusion black paint you can paint the chrome grill surround making this mod free and easy! My chrome paint is flaking off so it looks like crap anyway. I put 3 coats of paint on to see how it holds up, and maybe do more when it warms up with a coat of clear to help protect once I get a can. I had just enough paint left from the BHLM to do 3 coats so that's it for now.

It's been 3 days with driving salted roads and the paint has held up so far.

Just take the grill off, tape off any spots you don't want painted, and go to town! I popped the 2 top tabs on the emblem out, tipped it forward, and pulled it out to paint separately.

Pics of it done:



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[piercedtiger]

You guys will probably appreciate this one!

So I had a 32oz Gatoraide bottle in the truck and noticed it JUST fits in cup holder behind the gear shift on the passenger side. I also notice it put my hand in the perfect position to reach the shift knob with very little movement! Actually very comfortable (even my wife agrees!) and has since been in the truck from around the 1st or 2nd month after I bought it. Elbow rests on the center console, palm rests on the bottle and I can drive for hours without fatigue!

Cost: one gatoraide bottle so, what? $2 maybe? Or "free" if you already have one....




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[piercedtiger]

Hood struts should be STANDARD on cars now.... Hell, my FIL's "new" 2000 Dodge Ram has springs to hold the hood.... Since they aren't I added some from http://redlinetuning.com/QL-TOY-TACOMA-95+.html

I got the $69.95 base model ones, had them in almost 2 years now, and no problems! No hood-head impacts either... I swear they make it easier to open this hood than the smaller one on my Corolla! Open it maybe 6" and it starts lifting on it's own. I like watching techs open it, look at it as it raises on it's own, or reach for the prop stick and realize they don't need it!

They aren't free obviously, and may be "expensive" to some, but to me well worth not worrying about knocking out that damn prop stick again! (Did it once with the car and luckily I caught it in time.) Also, no fumbling to find the stupid hole at night when your buddy needs a jump.

Instructions were VERY detailed with instructions to tape here, measure X from there, drill here with X size bit, etc. The top brackets rivet in, bottom bolt in with self taping bolts, and ALL hardware is included.

Open Hood:


Top bracket:


Bottom bracket:


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[piercedtiger]

I have the stock 110V inverter with the outlet in the bed. I haven't found much use for it other than low amperage CF work lights, battery charges, etc. However, I have a rechargeable 2 million CP spot light. Battery sucks, and cigarette plug cord only reaches from the dash to back of the cab so I put a cigarette plug in the bed for that, or any other 12V device I might run back there. Wired straight to the battery with a 25amp fuse, 30amp rated wire, and 25amp cigarette plug/socket/whatever from Walmart. Probably less than $5, but I don't remember. Cheapest one they had, and all of them seemed to have the same max amperage. It's riveted to the storage compartment shown below with a hole drilled through the bottom for the wires, and grounded to the frame.

Tools/part

• 10-17ft of wire (I forget, had a spool laying around and doubled up the wire for the 30amp rating)
• soldering iron, solder, shrink tube
• inline fuse holder
• 30amp fuse
• 2 large round eye connectors (for battery connection, and ground bolt)
• female cigarette plug
• drill and bit
• rivet gun, 2 aluminum rivets

Plug installed:


Ground point and wire from the front (zip tied to top of passenger side frame rail):



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[spencer_hong]

someone's making a late run for the december prize haha good work

[piercedtiger]

I want an On Board Air setup, but it'll require a $200-$500 compressor, tank, air lines, adapters, pressure regulator, wiring, switch, relays, and more time/money than I have right now. Next best thing? A Masterflow MF-1050 or MV-50 from Pepboys, Costco, etc. I found mine on eBay for $50 with shipping, and saw some on other 4wd online stores for $86 or more. Look around! They are cheap and sell out FAST when a store gets them! Cheap compressors, but hold their own against compressors costing 4x as much or more!

Comes with storage bag, 8ft power cable (clips to battery, no cig plug crap to blow fuses), coil hose, inline fuse (30amp IIRC), foam air filter, screw-on flow-through tire inflater with air down capability, and fittings for inflating balls, etc.

I had to extend the power cord as it would barely reach the driver-rear tire, and would NOT reach the passenger rear tire. It MIGHT have, but you can't hold the inflater steady to prevent airing down, watch the pressure dial, AND reach the switch to turn it off/on. Needle bounces a little so you have to turn it on/off while checking the real needle position to get to the right pressure. Hard to do when you have to hold the inflater steady and can't reach the compressor.

I used a $10 set of jumper cables from Autozone to extend the cord another 10ft. That not only gives you a longer cord to reach everything, but also gives you stronger battery terminal clamps. (Original ones suck and pop off.) Just cut off the clamps on one end of the jumper cables, cut off the ones on the compressor, strip and twist the wires together and black tape the hell out of them! Coiled up longer power cord still fits in the bag! And the whole thing fits behind the passenger-rear seat next to that little shelf thing. So it's in the truck 24-7 if you need to air down and back up, or fix a flat. Or inflate a wheelchair tire like I did one day at work...

Box of the compressor:


Compressor and longer cables



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Edit:
Testimonial for this compressor!
http://www.gearinstalls.com/pepboys.htm
Comparison to other cheaper and more expensive ones:
http://www.parksoffroad.com/prodrevi...flatormain.htm

[piercedtiger]

Originally Posted by spencer_hong

someone's making a late run for the december prize haha good work

Nah, this came up in another thread that would've gone insanely off topic if I had continued there.... I figured a separate post would be better, maybe made sticky at some point, and I have nothing but time to kill for at least another week (if all goes well at my interview).

[tacomaman06]

if we had a voting system for the monthly prize.....i think you'd have this one pt!!!! awesome thread man!!

[piercedtiger]

Thanks! I'm a BIG fan of free or cheap and easy! My wife and I are pack rats with lots of room to squirrel things away "in case we need them" so I have spools of wire, boxes of nails/screws/bolts/nuts/washers/pulleys... And have accumulated lots of tools over the years as every vehicle project leads to needing a new tool to do it.