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swapping rear 3rd member difficulty.

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Old 06-01-2010, 07:14 AM   #21
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yepp no problems with it yet. im a little concerned about my gears though. i would think i would feel a little more umphh out of a 4.88
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:44 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by taco_man View Post
yepp no problems with it yet. im a little concerned about my gears though. i would think i would feel a little more umphh out of a 4.88
Awesome, so you want to put thread with all the parts etc for reference?

Not sure how much umphh you wanted but you should be able to see a lot on higher gears. I think 1 gear is low as is, so maybe thats why takeoff will not feel too much different.
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:47 AM   #23
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im not sure. ive only re-geared a diesel ad i felt that a lot more. i just dont know because i never really got on the petal when i was on stock gears with the 37s but the take offs feel exactly the same.
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:20 AM   #24
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I've been thinking about swapping out my third soon. I've got a replacement third with an LSD and 4.10's. So if I've got it straight, here's what you did:
*drain rear diff
*jack up rear of truck
*remove wheels
*remove 4 bolts holding each axle in housing
*remove brake line retaining bolt (not disconnecting lines from drums)
*pull axles out a few inches (did you support the axle or hub to keep it off the axle seal?)
*disconnect driveshaft from third
*unbolt third and remove
*put in new and reassemble

So a few questions, how hard was it to physically get the old third member out and put the new one in? Did you use a jack or something to help get it in and out? Or did you just man up and set the 80lb beast on your chest and bench press it up into the axle housing?
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:56 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afd23a View Post
I've been thinking about swapping out my third soon. I've got a replacement third with an LSD and 4.10's. So if I've got it straight, here's what you did:
*drain rear diff
*jack up rear of truck
*remove wheels
*remove 4 bolts holding each axle in housing
*remove brake line retaining bolt (not disconnecting lines from drums)
*pull axles out a few inches (did you support the axle or hub to keep it off the axle seal?)
*disconnect driveshaft from third
*unbolt third and remove
*put in new and reassemble

So a few questions, how hard was it to physically get the old third member out and put the new one in? Did you use a jack or something to help get it in and out? Or did you just man up and set the 80lb beast on your chest and bench press it up into the axle housing?
*disconnect driveshaft from third (that needs to be done at beginning)
*drain rear diff
*jack up rear of truck
*remove wheels
*remove 4 bolts holding each axle in housing
*remove brake line retaining bolt (not disconnecting lines from drums)
*pull axles out a few inches (did you support the axle or hub to keep it off the axle seal?) If you can that is very good as not to screweup your seals

*unbolt third and remove
*put in new and reassemble

How many miles you have? If a lot I would consider putting new axle seals while you doing that. Because there is good chance if they are old and you slide axles out they will rip and leak in new future.

Also for a third you dont need jack if you can handle 70 lb. otherwise
either have somebody to help you or see if you can borrow motorcycle jack or transmission jack.
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:13 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Im gonna say its "Medium" difficulty then. Depending on the frequency of paste eating and licking of windows.
LOl.WTF! If I haden't read the entire thread I would think this is the most absurd statement in the world!
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:17 AM   #27
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Okay, thanks BlueT. I've got about 95k. I already bought new axle seals, but was trying to get away with not taking everything apart if I don't have to. I've never taken an axle apart so I'm a little apprehensive about doing it myself. I usually do most of my own mods unless I don't have the equipment or don't feel safe doing it. I have the tools and ability to do this swap, just never done one before.

Another question, should I be concerned with driveshaft vibration and the new third? I mean how should I go about making sure I'm not going to get any vibration? Most things I've read about removing the third say to mark the third and driveshaft so you can align them correctly during reassembly.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:18 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afd23a View Post
Okay, thanks BlueT. I've got about 95k. I already bought new axle seals, but was trying to get away with not taking everything apart if I don't have to. I've never taken an axle apart so I'm a little apprehensive about doing it myself. I usually do most of my own mods unless I don't have the equipment or don't feel safe doing it. I have the tools and ability to do this swap, just never done one before.

Another question, should I be concerned with driveshaft vibration and the new third? I mean how should I go about making sure I'm not going to get any vibration? Most things I've read about removing the third say to mark the third and driveshaft so you can align them correctly during reassembly.
Well you are replacing third anyway so marking the drive shaft and the flange on the old diff does you no good (unless you want to do it just in case you going to put it back)
If you bought your third used I would use marking paste to check how does the R&P seat, in case it has problems, you want to make sure you know this before you take your time putting in.
As far as axle seals go. You already will have your axles unbolted. so the only extra thing is to completely disconnect brakes and slide axles out, after reinstalling you will need to bleed your brakes. But at 95K your seals may easily tear when you even sliding axles for a inch. So I would replace them, because if you skipp that now you may have leaking axle in a week or a month and you going have to do the whole thing again. Its rubber so it gets harder with age.
IMHO. Since you have axle a part anyway, I would just replace seals and be done with it.

BTW. I am assuming you know you going to need new gasket for third right? And you will have to clean housing and third where they mate before you put gasket on.
Last tip. Check the studs on the housing they like to pop out when you unbolting third, get a spare stud or two.
Make sure you torque them to specs.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:31 AM   #29
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Many good points in there.

The third hasn't been used since the LSD was installed in it, there's still paint on the gears from checking the mesh. I'm not sure if the gears were new when the LSD was installed or not, but I was told they were new.

Great point on the axle seals, while it's apart might as well do it.

I got a new gasket for the third, but it looks like paper (!?!). I was planning on using some red colored make your own gasket stuff instead of the paper thing.

I had thought about the studs popping out. I plan on spraying them down with PB blaster before hand. Had one come out when I put on my headers, but I was able to put it back in (the nut was stuck on it) and torque it down ok. Is there a special socket for installing new studs?
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afd23a View Post
Many good points in there.

The third hasn't been used since the LSD was installed in it, there's still paint on the gears from checking the mesh. I'm not sure if the gears were new when the LSD was installed or not, but I was told they were new.

Great point on the axle seals, while it's apart might as well do it.

I got a new gasket for the third, but it looks like paper (!?!). I was planning on using some red colored make your own gasket stuff instead of the paper thing.

I had thought about the studs popping out. I plan on spraying them down with PB blaster before hand. Had one come out when I put on my headers, but I was able to put it back in (the nut was stuck on it) and torque it down ok. Is there a special socket for installing new studs?
True you dont have to use that paper gasket you can use RTV (black I believe) just needs to be high temp and not prone to oil wash, it will say specifically for sealing third member differentials.

Studs, easy method to put them back on is to put two nuts together and tight them against each other, then use wrench on the top nut to screw the stud back and torque to specs. Later to brake double nuts apart you use two wrenches one to hold lower nut one top nut and loosen them apart
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:55 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afd23a View Post
Great thanks again for the tips!!
NP and Good luck
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:17 AM   #33
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Ive followed the same steps listed above to remove my 3rd. Ive got the axles pulled a and 9 nuts removed from the perimeter off the 3rd member. The quadrant from 12-3 is covered by the e-locker.

Ive been told I do not need to remove the e-locker. Is this correct? Im a little surprised that there it is not mechanically fastened to the axle for that span.

I'm having a heck of a time getting the 3rd member off. It seems like the seal is holding it all together really well. Anyone have any ideas/tips to get this off.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:19 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Keep in mind....its a good idea to have the beer AFTER the swap...the addition of beer during an install/swap multiplies the difficulty exponentialy.
Beer might come in handy when he's trying to breaker bar all those diff bolts though.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:23 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by echoxozzy View Post
Ive followed the same steps listed above to remove my 3rd. Ive got the axles pulled a and 9 nuts removed from the perimeter off the 3rd member. The quadrant from 12-3 is covered by the e-locker.

Ive been told I do not need to remove the e-locker. Is this correct? Im a little surprised that there it is not mechanically fastened to the axle for that span.

I'm having a heck of a time getting the 3rd member off. It seems like the seal is holding it all together really well. Anyone have any ideas/tips to get this off.
You have pulled your axle shafts out atleast 6-10 in?
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:25 AM   #36
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Sheesh. NM. I'm behind on my last 2 posts. If all the bolts are removed and your axle shafts are clear, just beat it with a rubber hammer. It'l come loose.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:25 AM   #37
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Probably not that far. I had been told they only needed to come out a couple of inches. They where probably about 4 or 5 inches out.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:31 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by echoxozzy View Post
Probably not that far. I had been told they only needed to come out a couple of inches. They where probably about 4 or 5 inches out.
Your probably good then. I had to pull mine 6-7.
That really thin paper can be a bitch. Smack the bottom of the diff near the 4 bolts that you disconnected from the driveshaft.
That paper gasket is like super glue.
Here's how far I had to take mine out till it came loose.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:49 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afd23a View Post
I already bought new axle seals.
sent you a PM, but figured this info would be helpful for all (for people searching)....do you have the part numbers for the axle seals, prices, did they have to be special ordered...etc?

thanks dude!
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