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Engines over 150k miles suggestions?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by mattleegee, Apr 6, 2010.

?

What to use in higher mileage motors?

Poll closed Jul 5, 2010.
  1. Conventional Oil

    8 vote(s)
    10.7%
  2. Syntec Oil

    6 vote(s)
    8.0%
  3. High Mileage Oil (per label)

    19 vote(s)
    25.3%
  4. Full Synthetic

    42 vote(s)
    56.0%
  1. Jun 14, 2010 at 6:49 PM
    #21
    Trap

    Trap Well-Known Member

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    Electric Tail Gate Lock, EZ Down + Cable Mod, Galvanized Underbody, DK 9000, CloudRider SS Grill insert. BakFlip HD, Cabin Air Filter mod, Alarm, Zero Rust !
    My Eureka moment was Mobil 1 5-30W
     
  2. Jun 14, 2010 at 6:49 PM
    #22
    crf69

    crf69 scraping my emblems off my plasti-dip

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    ummm yeah
    amsoil sig series 0-w30.....change once a year! mann filter's changed at 7500 or 6 months!!!
     
  3. Jun 15, 2010 at 12:37 AM
    #23
    Trap

    Trap Well-Known Member

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    Electric Tail Gate Lock, EZ Down + Cable Mod, Galvanized Underbody, DK 9000, CloudRider SS Grill insert. BakFlip HD, Cabin Air Filter mod, Alarm, Zero Rust !
    Yes I found the story on the aircraft engine synthetic no no. Apparently it's not compatible with some older Rotex engines.

    However 99.998% of aircraft use synthetic, including the US military.

    • Synthetics offer better engine wear protection, helping the engine to last longer
    • They offer better fuel efficiency helping you to save money at the pump
    • They help your vehicle to start easier in cold weather due to its low pour point
    • The engine runs cooler in higher temperatures by reducing friction
    • There is an increase in horsepower
    • There are less tailpipe emissions
    • It helps to reduce engine deposits, which helps to make the engine perform more efficiently
    • Synthetics help to resist oxidation and thermal breakdown which helps to reduce sludge that will cause the valves and rings to stick
    • They offer better stability as the engine doesn’t burn as much oil because the oil is more resistant to the heat
    • They offer better lubricity because the synthetic oil polymers can slide more easily together. By reducing this friction, you improve horsepower and torque but lesson engine wear.
    • They offer better film strength – this is the resistance of oil molecules from separating under pressure. If you think about two metals being pressed together, with oil between them to stop them from grinding, you want that oil to stay there. Conventional mineral oils will push away from each other. As synthetic oils don’t shear as easily, they can maintain a higher film strength, which prevents wear under difficult and extreme operating conditions.

    Sounds like my kind of oil.

    Personally I don't care what it costs. Cheaper then repairs. All the really expensive machines require it. Wonder why ? So where does that black guck go when using synthetic ? If your engine is clean and in good shape it's simply does not form. See it yourself with the dipstick. Kind of like changing your oil filter every time you change your synthetic. It's really a waste of resources but I do it anyway.

    Oh the downside:

    Costs slightly more.
     
  4. Jun 15, 2010 at 2:13 AM
    #24
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    SAS, Locked front rear, Ufab sliders and bumpers, air compressor, 35" BFG KM2 on steelies and 36" TSLs
    switched to royal purpal full synthetic at 190,000 miles, still running smoothe at over 250,000 miles today :)
     
  5. Jun 15, 2010 at 2:14 AM
    #25
    WhatThePho?

    WhatThePho? Greg Graffin 2016

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    The things required to pull bitches
    I'm at 155k on Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30. I don't buy any of the high mileage stuff.
     
  6. Jun 23, 2010 at 9:40 AM
    #26
    YotaDude01

    YotaDude01 Kentucky Boy

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    in my opinion full syn is the best for a new or old engine. seems to last longer and has a better color and smoother feel to it when i change it than conv oil does.
     

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