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Realistic Towing capability with 2009 V6 DBL cab

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Old 02-19-2011, 05:28 PM   #1
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Realistic Towing capability with 2009 V6 DBL cab

I am looking hard at a travel trailer. The specs for the DBL cab with the factory towing package say 650 lbs hitch weight and 6500 lbs Gross towing weight. I don't think the truck will do that much weight reliably.

I am looking at a a 22' 8 " travel trailer that has a unloaded dry weight of 3220 lbs with a hitch weight of 325 lbs Trailer GVWR rating of 5200 lbs.

Of course I'll have a brake controller and equalizing hitch. No one I talked with would let me attach the vehicle to one of their trailers without one and I am smarter than to try it without.

One dealer told me about all I could tow was a Jayco Feather light Sport Series, either with tent beds or a 16 foot fully enclosed . The fully enclosed one was model 165 2835 lbs unloaded Hitch 440 lbs and GVWR rating 3,500 lbs I was looking at the Jay Flight 19RD but at with a dry weight of 4140 lbs and a hitch weight of 550 lbs he though it would be to much for the Tacoma. Its 23' 3" long. The 165 is a little to small for me.

I have not browsed the forum much yet and I will as the answers may already be posted but sometimes its easier to ask the question that to spend loads of time and have to ask anyway.

Oh I also have the famous yellow sticker that says the truck has a capacity weight reduction of 290 lbs.

I am wondering what others are towing weight and trailer size reliably with their Tacomas?

Thanks for any insight you can provide.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:34 PM   #2
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I've towed a 97 Jeep Wrangler twice. One trip was 150 mile round. and another was from SD, CA to Flagstaff, AZ. It does very well for towing a brick. I will be towing it every summer to and from Flagstaff and SD.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:41 PM   #3
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Just got back from a trip to Lake Cumberland towing my Mallard 180ck, Weight 4800lbs loaded. Not even a small problem towing it. I don't care for the Weight Dist. Hitch. I install Timbrens SES instead. Those hitches add 70-100+ lbs and make for a stiff ride. With the Timbrens when your unloaded it's ride is same as stock. Screw the TBS AAL and WDH's. But I do run sway control.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:50 PM   #4
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If the truck couldn't do it then the rating would not have passed the new capacity testing. However, if you plan on towing 6500lbs all the time then you need to look at a full size truck.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:36 PM   #5
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cc 350...Sway control with Timbrens SES, I'll look into that. Which sway control attachment do you use?
whippersnapper02...Maybe so though many times things like towing capacity are more a sales tool than the actual ability. I am sure some engineer said it should do 6,500 lbs overall weight but that would mean i could tow some bigger trailers like 27 or 36 footers maybe so but I think its too small a truck to properly handle trailers of to large a size. I wonder if Toyota hooked the truck up to such weight.

I once worked for a radio company, we were asked often about service manuals for the radios. The factory did publish them but with very few operating voltages around the circuits. That service manual was more of a sales tool, sure do have a service manual for this radio, than worth much for actual service of the product.

Thanks !! for all your input so far I am still learning about the truck after a 1.5 years ownership
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:41 PM   #6
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Before there was no real way to test towing capacity. Most just threw a number out there. There is a new regulation on how towing capacity is determined now so auto makers can't simply throw any number out there. It isn't in full effect until 2013 but all auto makers must pass this testing in the US. So far Toyota's numbers have passed.

Here is some info on this new regulation: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tow...s-e-j2807.html
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:47 PM   #7
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Cool, when I was a kid no one cared, they bought a trailer hitch, most likely a bumper hitch, hooked up the trailer to the land yacht, big old Caddy, Olds, Ford full size sedan and took off towing away. Some were 30 feet long in those days too.

So I have to wonder if the ratings on my 2009 DBL cab are correct. I have looked at other threads and find mixed results. I am about 1/2 of the rating at 3220 lbs providing thats the actual dry weight of the trailer, one dealer said trailer manufacturers publish the weight before the extras like A/C, awnings, batteries, full propane tanks etc are added. So you can figure on the dry weight being some 300 lbs more.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfiber View Post
Cool, when I was a kid no one cared, they bought a trailer hitch, most likely a bumper hitch, hooked up the trailer to the land yacht, big old Caddy, Olds, Ford full size sedan and took off towing away. Some were 30 feet long in those days too.

So I have to wonder if the ratings on my 2009 DBL cab are correct. I have looked at other threads and find mixed results. I am about 1/2 of the rating at 3220 lbs providing thats the actual dry weight of the trailer, one dealer said trailer manufacturers publish the weight before the extras like A/C, awnings, batteries, full propane tanks etc are added. So you can figure on the dry weight being some 300 lbs more.
The Jeep I pull is probably between 3000-4000 lbs, and truck does just fine with the weight.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:15 AM   #9
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I would not pull with more than 80% of the GVWR rating,even with an equalizer hitch and sway control.With 6500lb. rating, that's 5200lbs. It's easier on the truck and you'll have power for hills. I pull a 21ft hi-lo travel trailer with a total wieght fully loaded,with my truck bed loaded also, of 4000lbs with no problems.I would do the Jay Flight 19RD!!
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:50 AM   #10
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i find life a lot more pleasant while hauling with airbags
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:11 AM   #11
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I think you should be good for distance towing with a travel trailer for 5000-5500lbs. I've hauled over the rated 6500 for short distances and it handled it fine, but I wouldnt want to tow near max capacity for anything farther than 50-75 miles I think. Be sure to get a good trailer brake controller regardless of how much you to.
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfiber View Post
Cool, when I was a kid no one cared, they bought a trailer hitch, most likely a bumper hitch, hooked up the trailer to the land yacht, big old Caddy, Olds, Ford full size sedan and took off towing away. Some were 30 feet long in those days too.

So I have to wonder if the ratings on my 2009 DBL cab are correct. I have looked at other threads and find mixed results. I am about 1/2 of the rating at 3220 lbs providing thats the actual dry weight of the trailer, one dealer said trailer manufacturers publish the weight before the extras like A/C, awnings, batteries, full propane tanks etc are added. So you can figure on the dry weight being some 300 lbs more.
When you add the extra weight at the tongue, like batterie(s) (70lbs each) Lp tanks (50lbs each) and if you use a WDH add another 100 lbs to the TW. That's up to a TW of 595lbs, If you carry H2O that tank is up front as well to add to the TW. It adds up fast up front. with that kind of weight on the tongue you should use a WDH to distribute the weight throughout the rig. If you put that on a single ball mount with out distribution it is going to be putting all that weight on the rear of your TV and not throughout all axels. I have pulled my rig with and with out the WDH. The stability offered by the WDH is with out a doubt worth the extra 100lbs and stiffness from the hitch. With out the WDH it is like driving a truck with a hinge in the middle of the chassis. Bouncy sway, bouncy sway, bouncy sway......... try a high speed swerve w/o a WDH No thanks. I've done it and it is a high pucker factor moment. with WDH smooth and controlled.

The rating in the brochure is way off. What you really need is the actual rating from the yellow sticker on the side of the trailer you intending to buy. That is the actual dry weight of that trailer as delivered. Remember H20 is 8.2 lbs p/gl as well. the 300# for accessories is about right for the popular packages.

My rig is 3220 ( as per yellow sticker) dry and loaded it is around 4000# w/10gls of water. My taco pulls this just fine with my wife and dog in the cab as well as wood, bicycles and other miscellany in the bed.

Do your homework about weigh, it adds up fast . Do you homework about hauling and hitch set up and decide which will be best for you and the safety level you are willing to settle with .

Edit: My WDH is also anti sway .
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:35 PM   #13
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Paul,

What make and model of trailer and WDH do you have? I am looking at 2010 Lance 1881. The dealers will set me up with a hitch but I also like the anti sway and Reese Dual-Cam which I think is anti sway.

I hold a Class A CDL but admittedly I got it when I was with the WSDOT and did not do any trailer pulling other than training. Then that was in a 6 yard dump truck pulling an equipment trailer with air brakes all around. The Tacoma will be a bit different I suspect.

I sure do appreciate all the replies and insight being provided to me. THANKS
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:31 PM   #14
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Equal-i-zer

Looks like this one. Equal-i-zer. I think the one I have is a bit overkill for my trailer which is about 4000# loaded but it works.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/produc...tech_specs.php
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfiber View Post
Paul,

What make and model of trailer and WDH do you have? I am looking at 2010 Lance 1881. The dealers will set me up with a hitch but I also like the anti sway and Reese Dual-Cam which I think is anti sway.

I hold a Class A CDL but admittedly I got it when I was with the WSDOT and did not do any trailer pulling other than training. Then that was in a 6 yard dump truck pulling an equipment trailer with air brakes all around. The Tacoma will be a bit different I suspect.

I sure do appreciate all the replies and insight being provided to me. THANKS
I have a Rockwood Mini Lite 1809. I joke that it's the most expensive toilet I've ever bought gotta keep my lady happy! the pop up w/o a head was not working for her..

I hold a class B CDL and there is no comparison to driving heavy stuff w/air brakes and the Taco with a TT. Still heavy for a light truck and just as in your dump you take 'er slow and enjoy the ride. trailer brakes work fine after they are adjusted. I use the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Camper Brake Control that can be ordered with the pigtail for the Taco so all you need to do is ground it and mount, truly plug and play.It took me 1/2 hour to install. dealer wanted $150 for installation.

I use the equalizer well. It's WD as well as anti sway in one set up with out the cams. The reese dual cam will work well too but more to set up.. I have the 10K lb model which is the one equalizer recommended for my rig. It also gives me room to upgrade the TT with out the need to buy a new hitch. read instructions before your dealer puts it on so you know what they are doing. i had to correct the guy who put mine on. He made the truck nose heavy. RVwholesalers.com has them for $450, shipped. see if your dealer will match that.
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:51 AM   #16
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Hey I was always taught as a kid on the farm that whatever you tow should be around half of the tow rating, ie truck good for 6000lbs then you can tow 3000lbs without any issues.
Now that was a few years ago. Now with abs brakes on the trucks and e-brakes on the trailers and improvements with cooling for the tranny the no more than 50% rule my Dad told us is not as applicable but I still lean that way. We always knew the trucks could pull more and did but the stopping part was the scary part. As well the lifespan of the expensive stuff shortened with the more heat. Heat kills all things with oil.
We knew we would pull with ours so our sr5 , that didn't come with the tow package, had the hitch, wire harness and tranny cooler installed at the dealer before delivery. The dealer actually recommended this then the warranty covered all the work they did. I'm sure we over paid but the coverage was worth it for me.
We have an annual trip around Lake Superior thru all the major hills in Canada and have never had a problem. Truck is just over 4 years now and no issues. Oil is changed very regularly , every 5000 km and is synthetic. Have had the tranny , transfer and both diffs changed at the 3 year mark as well. Oil is cheap , metal is not.
pics of our set up is in my gallery. Hope this helps and My Dad would be proud that his "lessons" are still being talked about.
Cheers
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:06 AM   #17
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Just bought a Zinger 19RD

The dealer set up my WD hitch and the truck seemed fine with the weight(parked). I have not pulled it yet because of the crappy weather (it is still at the dealer). It weighs 4000# with 2 20# LP bottles and battery. I am kind of holding my breath until I get her on the road.
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:29 AM   #18
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I have towed my camper many times. I can roll over 80mph on the interstate. It does slow down when you hits some hills. I wouldn't try to tow my camper in the mountians. I also have electric brake and equalizer hitch. I dont use the hitch though. My camper is 4200lbs. I figure i pulling 5000lbs when im fully loaded to go camping.



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Old 03-05-2011, 02:48 PM   #19
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Airbags

Is anyone using airbags, if so which ones?
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:54 PM   #20
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AIR BAGS

Deckplate,

I use Firestone air bags and I must say what a difference in towing the camper.

I tow a 20' camper listed dry at 3950 and loaded with propane water dual battries and supplies I figure 4400 pound towing not counting the weight in the box of the toy.

I have always used equalizer bars and that helps but when I added the air bags and 30 LBS per bag the handling improved and the over all ride quality.

The Tacoma springs are very soft from the factory and they are not set up for towing. You could just add leaf but then you are stuck with the ride height and stiff ride and with air bags when not towing run at 10LBS per bag.

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