Increasing towing capacity?

How so? You asked how to increase the towing capacity of a Taco. He, and others have said it's not a good idea to try that.

Engine power and spring capacity aren't the only things that determine tow rating. It's the SIZE of the vehicle too. Putting an I-Force V8 and airbags in a Taco will make it *possible* to tow a heavier load, but it won't make it safe. Not only was the Tacoma frame not designed for hauling more than 5-6K lbs, the weight/size of the vehicle just makes it unsafe. Leg room isn't the only reason a Tundra, or a Ford F-350 are much bigger than our Tacos.

The minute you start towing a significant amount more than the tow vehicle itself (especially when it's a Tacoma) weighs, you're taking your own life (and those around you) in your hands. Not only that, it's typically illegal, at least in California.

If you wanted to tow more than 5-6K pounds, why'd you buy a Tacoma?!

 

You really didn't read what I posted did you?

Because I never once mentioned towing more than the 6500lb the Tacoma is rated for... All I ever asked was about improving reliabilty while towing within it's rated capacity.

 

Double tap

 

When you tow at 6,500 lbs with two people in the truck you most likely would be over the limit. Especially if you add stuff on top, like a sway bar, 100+ lbs WDH, etc. All things you listed, no?

 

No, those are part of the 6500lb/1110lb GCWR

This really isn't complicated

 

You're right... this isn't complicated
Truck curb weight = 4,155 lbs
Trailer weight = 6,500 lbs
GCWR w/ tow package = 11,100 lbs.

4,155 + 6,500 = 10,655 lbs

11,100 - 10,655 = 445 lbs

Figure 2 passengers conservatively weigh 300 lbs combined so you're left with 145 lbs.

That 145 lbs has to include the W/D hitch, any aftermarket accessories, etc. That's not a lot of wiggle room and that was sechgang's point.

 

The factory tow package will be good enough at transferring engine/transmission heat. Adding airbags or timbrens will help with the added tongue weight. WD/ sway-bar will keep trailer safe behind you. I'd go with SS brake-lines for better braking with a High end brake controller. Also if you'll be towing at close to max weights I'd move up to E rated tires. I would truly rate the Tacoma at 5500 max weight for towing. Anything over 5500# I'd buy a bigger truck.

 

Wow, I understand exactly what the OP is saying--it's not that complicated.

1. He is not trying to increase his towing capacity, only maintain reliability and driveability when he tows a heavy load.

2. His weight calculations are right there in his post! They total up to 5000 pounds including himself and his wife and 200 pounds of gear. 5000 pounds does not equal 6500 pounds and it leaves him lots of wiggle room if he needs to carry an extra person or more gear.

OP, supercharge it and put airbags or beefier leaf springs and shocks in the rear, change your diff fluids at tighter intervals than what the manufacturer suggests, and just keep and eye on everything and drive smoothly and safely and you should be fine.

 

2005 Prerunner V6 4.0. I tow 20' travel trailer with gear 5500# and I tow it 10x per year 1000 mile hauls.

First year I relalized the transmission was getting real hot, like heat your coffee up while it sit in the console holder! So I installed Oil cooler and Trans cooler from Summit racing; the can recommend. Was just normal sizes.

Second year after hitting a bad storm with high winds, that I MUST get a sway type hitch..OR I would get a 3/4ton.....SO I found the best I could find, it was Hensley Arrow Hitch which removed all sway and has lift bars to raise the truck up anywhere you want it. Cost was 600$ but normally 1000$ used. BUT IT WORKS PERFECTLY. With out it, I would have gotten a 3/4ton.

I have 265 75 16" wheels, Must have C rating I believe.

I can make due with this sit up, and will keep on just to see how long it will go. BUT bottom line, they are just not that stable of a truck for towing Travel trailers...

Maybe the truck is fine for towing something 6500# flat in a trailer bed, BUT when you hook up to a travel trailer, its like towing a Billboard turned sideways....

but it can be done, just not a real tow truck in my book. I am sure i could hook up to 10,000 pounds and make a one hit wounder.

Tires, make sure they are inspected, and wheel bearings, wheel play due to bearings.

I run my truck tires at MAX pressure 50-55# and Trailer 50-55# what ever the max is on the wheel. This makes a huge difference in towing.

Before MY sway Eliminator hitch, I had to counter steer for big trucks, and it was just dangerous in the long run.

Just my two cents

 

When you answer with a simple "It won't work" without evidence backing it up, all the while sounding like a dick, people start to be mean to you.

People want to know the explanation behind the inconsiderate terse answer so that maybe they can understand how to approach the problem on their own, what other options they may have, use that knowledge in the future to either help answer a similar question from someone else or make a better educated guess towards another proposed inquiry.

Your people skills are lacking, OP shouldn't have even considered your answer. But he did, and you filled the role of douche bag quit nicely - so thanks for clearing any guilt any of us socially apt folk may have had for ignoring you in the first place.

OP - one thing that has not been mentioned here is fluids. I would seriously really start paying attention to the recommended fluid changing intervals. This includes oil, transmission fluid, gear oil, coolant, etc. I've been in those shoes before with a 94 Yota Pickup (Auto, 6 cylinder, 2k towing capacity) and was towing 3,000 pounds total. I got 10MPG, stayed out of OD, and used some of the best fluids offered. I used full synthetic oil(Royal Purple / Shell T6), water wetter (coolant treatment, you should be familiar with this as a fellow track addict), Transmission Honey, and a royal purple gear oil. Then, don't forget to keep up with greasing the driveshaft and other linkages. However, their life will still be decreased, obviously, with the additional heat and load at the expense of protecting your motor and drivetrain.

I think I may have missed what model Tacoma you have, but I'm assuming it's the 96-2003 model year, and if I recall correctly, they have the same transmission (A340H) as the previous generation Pickup. This transmission wasn't all that great and notorious for overheating. What makes a transmission overheat in the first place is the torque converter constantly engaging to properly disperse engine power in the different gears and rpm of the motor. When the motor is weak, like the 94's were, it has to use that torque converter much more often, creating friction and obviously creating heat. It's basically working as a clutch. So naturally, the trick is to avoid that torque converter from being used - which means a strong(er) motor that can pull at a lower RPM, or simply higher RPM, and avoid changing gears. Since you'll be traveling at 55-60 anyway, the air rolling underneath the truck will naturally cool the transmission - so maintaining a constant speed is good. But you also mentioned the extremely hot 100+ degree temps out there, which, I believe is pushing it. At that point you may want to seriously consider a transmission cooler.

In your case this doesn't apply so much since you are driving in 4th gear anyway - but for the other Taco owners on the line out there, you keep an eye on how often it needs to shift, that tells you how hot the transmission will be getting and if you can tow "D" or with O/D off. A good rule of thumb when it comes to knowing the limits of your transmission, if you can recall the smell of fresh transmission fluid, compared to a transmission that's overheating - the fluid will have an extremely burnt smell. It's almost unmistakable. That's when the transmission is overworked and you need to stop before damage occurs, and replace the fluid asap. Something else I did was place my hand on the center hump where the center console is (touching the carpeting), the bell housing and transmission itself is here, so I know if it ever got too hot for me to touch - I was in deep shit. I never got there, thankfully, but I did get close and I know I was pushing it with how fast I was burning up transmission fluid.

Your question regarding factors to consider and what ultimately determines a towing capacity has already been answered, but just to elaborate, it's really a combination of many things - rarely the motor being the bottleneck (this again only affects the mileage you get and how often the transmission needs to shift). It's the stopping power the vehicle is rated for, it's the frame rigidy, it's its own weight, it's the transmission, it's the motor, etc.. But usually the bottleneck is the trucks own weight. If you had to slam on the brakes or a gust of wind came your way, a truck over its limit (even though it has the power to back it up) will jack knife or sway out of control causing your truck to tail whip, float all over the place, lose control, not have enough weight to the tires to stop the load behind it, etc. Wind resistance was a big factor for me when I was approaching the power limit of the motor, so I got a 7x12 v nose to help. Never had any real issues overall, just kept up with my fluids. Wind would cause the rig to sway (which sway bars help with) a little, but not enough to make me lose control by any means.

In a nutshell, when towing over your capacity, the best thing you can do is ease the problems as much as possible. Gauge your options, figure out what you need to purchase to help your specific weak spot. Consider starting to brake super early if you don't have the stopping power, don't forget to put a larger cushion between you and other traffic, stay in O/D, keep an eye on the engine temperature, watch your transmission temperature, watch your tire PSI, get the best fluids you can afford, (check fluids and PSI at every gas stop),replace them more often, get a brake controller if your trailer has electric brakes, use 91 octane, etc.

 

Good Stuff, Riptide. I routinely (by "routinely", I mean 2-3 times a year) tow a 20' v- nose enclosed car hauler with either a Lamborghini Diablo or Dodge Viper enclosed. I keep the tongue weight down around 400# by having the car positioned in the trailer to balance the load. I run Firestone airbags on the rear axle (although I use those more to level the trailer entry angle when I'm loading low profile cars). The trailer has brakes on both axles and I use a decent Tekonsha brake controller. I've hit the scales a few times with everything loaded and I know that the trailer loaded is just over 6600# (including e-track, ratchet straps, and a Diablo with an EMPTY fuel tank). I've got a good WD hitch with dual cam sway control and I've never had a problem. Often I'll stick behind an 18 wheeler to increase mileage a little on the highway (I let them know on the CB that I'm there and what I'm doing). Like a previous poster said, you can't always get a pallet of sod or stone weighed. People (often myself included) run over all the time, and designers/manufacturers account for this. Put four adults in a Yaris with a pack of gum in the trunk and you're over the GVWR. Just be careful. Allow more time for stopping. Keep an eye on your temps/tire pressure.

 

Another good point, thanks. Balancing the load is also just as important, but not something "I" personally have had too much trouble with considering my light load. I have my 7x12 trailer with a motorcycle and tool box inside for track days, I simply position the motorcycle all the way back, just behind the single axle - to balance the trailer with little weight on the front. Then I have that heavy toolbox placed in the nose, bolted it down, and put the 200 pound generator right next to it. Everything else goes in the bed of the truck. I should have probably weighed it to get an exact idea, but in theory the weight was right, and the combination always ran very well for me.