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Towing Specs. for the 07

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Old 08-25-2007, 08:21 PM   #1
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Towing Specs. for the 07

I have an 07 DC with TRD and Tow package with AT. I want to look at getting a top-of-the line Pop-up "Fleetwood Niagra". It has a ~3900 lb dry weight. Without getting a physics degree. Can my Pickup tow it in the real world? Like a trip to Yellowstone to Wash. DC?

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-Overstock07
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:42 PM   #2
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As far as I know all of the 4.0l can to w up to 6,500lbs, my 06 can but its a manual trans, still think its the same for autos though.
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:43 PM   #3
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ps welcome to tacoma world nice ride!
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:19 PM   #4
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Yes, that is what the manual states for mine as well. However, the way things work in the real world tends to be overstated by some (towing capacity, as long as you weigh as much as Calista Flockhart) and understated by some (trailer weight, as long as your portapotty and shower are filled and dumped at the campsite, all shampoo bottles are emptied upon exiting your driveway and campsites, no large toothpaste tubes over four ounces, etc). I guess I am skeptical. And I wish to hear what a good rule of thumb should be. Like never more then 2/3 the towing capacity or some good estimate vs. weighing whether my kid should eat that last nugget or we will be over the GVWR.

Thanks again for listing what the manual states as well as the fast reply. I wasn't trying to be rude to you.

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Old 08-26-2007, 06:07 AM   #5
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Ok here is a x-truck drivers take on it. As long as your below the towing capacity of the vehicle you should be ok. If they offer stabilizing bars thats always a good idea. If the trailer lightens up the front end that is never good.
The longer the trailer the more stable it can be but also heavier. A double axle trailer can be more stable also. The closer you get to max weight the harder the truck is going to work but haveing a 5 speed AT helps in that area.

Your truck should be rated at 6500 towing a 3900 pound trailer shouldnt be a problem.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:02 PM   #6
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Ok, just for a little credit I'll let you know I'm a tow truck driver, and am certified CTTA and AAA, so I know tow.
If the dry weight of that trailer is 3900lbs, then even if it has water and waste, and you load the cab with people I don't think you'll exceed the 6,500lbs. Most vehicles give a towing capacity based on braking power not on what the motor can pull. So, if you are towing and you feel your brakes are not performing properly, then lighten the load. Furthermore, if you put too much weight on the tongue, it will reduce steering, but If you stay under the recommended limit then you'll be fine.
If you really like the trailer you're talking about, get it. And then post pics!
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:33 PM   #7
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We have an '02 Coleman Fleetwood we purchased new that weighs about 550lb less than your model, and it has been pulled in the past by my '02 reg cab 3.4 V6 Tundra, wifes old '96 4.3 Blazer (200 HP, 3.42 axle, good torque), wifes current 2002 Trailblazer (275 HP, 4.2 L6, opt 3.73 axle, only moderate low/mid torque but fast), and stepsons 96 C-1500 5.7 3.42 axle. All tow it well. Sister and bro inlaw have a Niagra model and pull it most with a Mitsubishi Montero; it handles it well, except for a lack of horsepower, the overbuilt Japanese truck frame does not even know it is back there with bars and sway control.

EDIT: I will finish after the bad lightning storm is over****************

I'm back, have a ~14-16" diameter pine down between house and barn, but all else is ok. These campers pull well, but the axles seem to be far forward and are hard to get enough tongue weight to prevent swaying, although not quite as bad on models with front storage boxes like the Niagra. Even though you will have front box, try to load front heavy, and add front mounted items such as optional 2nd propane tank, group 27 deep cycle batt, and get a friction type sway control if if still seems to sway. Not related to what tow vehicle is used, but important, is that most campers have just enough tire weight capacity at the max sidewall psi due to space in wheelwells, so keep a good check on tire presure; including spare. I bought new tires after 4 years with virtually no wear showing just to be on the safe side, and it is almost impossible to find a tire these sizes NOT made in China. When the spring TSB becomes available for '07 models, do pursue it. The DC is the most likely model to suffer from the rear springs being under capacity, even with the Bilstein's
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overstock07 View Post
I have an 07 DC with TRD and Tow package with AT. I want to look at getting a top-of-the line Pop-up "Fleetwood Niagra". It has a ~3900 lb dry weight. Without getting a physics degree. Can my Pickup tow it in the real world? Like a trip to Yellowstone to Wash. DC?

Help

-Overstock07
From a fellow camper.

Your dry weight is not as much of what you should be concerned with as is your wet weight (ie: fresh water tank as well as you propane capacity) and that compared added to your cargo carrying capacity is what you really need to look at.

Example: My camper, (2006 Jayco Jayfeather 197), a compact hardside has a dry weight of 3004 lbs, with a max weight of 3750. Wet weight is 3284. That is figuring in 30 gallons of fresh water (24 in the tank and 6 in the hot water heater) @ 8.33 lbs/gal. and 7.08 gallons of propane @ 4.24 lbs/gal (30 lbs tank). That leaves the cargo carrying capacity of my trailer at 466lbs.

All this information can be found on the inside door of one of the cabinates (sp?) in the actual unit you are looking at. (each trailer, even the same make and model will be different)

Point remains that as you add things like your camp chairs, your food, your clothing, your fishing rods and tackle box, and your beer you can eat up the cargo carrying capacity very quickly, so the weight you want to look at is the GVWR or your max weight.

That was a long winded way of saying that you are looking at the wrong number. Long story short... I'd guess that the GVWR on the Niagra based on 3900lbs dry would be around 4600lbs. With that said, yes a V6 Taco can pull 4600lbs where ever you want to take it without a problem. Particularly considering that you are looking at a pop-up and therefor will present much less frontal area to the wind than I do for example, and what really hampers towing is drag more than weight within reason.

PROVIDED THAT YOU EQUIP YOUR TRUCK AND CAMPER CORRECTLY

You need a brake controller, weight distribution hitch, sway controll, and extended towing mirrors. To get more into that would be off-topic, but I'll reference a couple of previous threads where I have detailed some of what you'll need to know, and if you have any other questions feel free to message me directly about it.

Brake controllers

Towing and braking while towing
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:12 PM   #9
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I just towed a loaded 5,000lb 7x14 double axle box trailer 2,000 miles with my TRD 6 speed. Aside from the 10mpg @ 70 mph it did pretty well for that size truck. I did hook up a brake controller which took all of about 5 minutes and paid for itself in seconds. Certainly not a full size truck, but it feels pretty good pulling a load.
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRH View Post
We have an '02 Coleman Fleetwood we purchased new that weighs about 550lb less than your model, and it has been pulled in the past by my '02 reg cab 3.4 V6 Tundra, wifes old '96 4.3 Blazer (200 HP, 3.42 axle, good torque), wifes current 2002 Trailblazer (275 HP, 4.2 L6, opt 3.73 axle, only moderate low/mid torque but fast), and stepsons 96 C-1500 5.7 3.42 axle. All tow it well. Sister and bro inlaw have a Niagra model and pull it most with a Mitsubishi Montero; it handles it well, except for a lack of horsepower, the overbuilt Japanese truck frame does not even know it is back there with bars and sway control.

EDIT: I will finish after the bad lightning storm is over****************

I'm back, have a ~14-16" diameter pine down between house and barn, but all else is ok. These campers pull well, but the axles seem to be far forward and are hard to get enough tongue weight to prevent swaying, although not quite as bad on models with front storage boxes like the Niagra. Even though you will have front box, try to load front heavy, and add front mounted items such as optional 2nd propane tank, group 27 deep cycle batt, and get a friction type sway control if if still seems to sway. Not related to what tow vehicle is used, but important, is that most campers have just enough tire weight capacity at the max sidewall psi due to space in wheelwells, so keep a good check on tire presure; including spare. I bought new tires after 4 years with virtually no wear showing just to be on the safe side, and it is almost impossible to find a tire these sizes NOT made in China. When the spring TSB becomes available for '07 models, do pursue it. The DC is the most likely model to suffer from the rear springs being under capacity, even with the Bilstein's
Yes the Double Cab needs the springs replaced I bottomed just carrying some mulch,not that much weight! When I get mine done I'll give feedback on the TSB thread.
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