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Old 07-02-2014, 03:45 PM   #881
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Thanks you all for the great info in this thread. I have read through all 43+ pages and have one simple question: Do you tow in D or 4?

Taking the new boat to the Keys next week. Trip is about 200 miles in South FLorida heat. No major hills other than highway overpasses. Truck is an 08' TRD sport DC longbed. Has the full tow package. TSB was not done but I did add a Hellwig 979 helper spring kit. That has helped a bunch on short trips to the local boat ramp. Boat is listed at 2650 +480 for the motor. Trailer is listed at 850 so I am close to 4k dry. figure another 1000lbs for beer ice, wife and kids stuff i am pushing a bit over 5k. Trailer has surge brakes. Thanks again.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:02 PM   #882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaThruLens View Post
Thanks you all for the great info in this thread. I have read through all 43+ pages and have one simple question: Do you tow in D or 4?

Taking the new boat to the Keys next week. Trip is about 200 miles in South FLorida heat. No major hills other than highway overpasses. Truck is an 08' TRD sport DC longbed. Has the full tow package. TSB was not done but I did add a Hellwig 979 helper spring kit. That has helped a bunch on short trips to the local boat ramp. Boat is listed at 2650 +480 for the motor. Trailer is listed at 850 so I am close to 4k dry. figure another 1000lbs for beer ice, wife and kids stuff i am pushing a bit over 5k. Trailer has surge brakes. Thanks again.
Short answer: it depends.

If the truck can hold D without down shifting constantly, just use D. If it keeps down shifting to maintain speeding, then use 4. I tow routinely in 6th with my manual as long as the engine doesn't lug or struggle. If it does, drop it down a gear.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:19 PM   #883
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I generally only tow lighter loads in D. If I am towing over 3k lbs I keep it in 4th. It is cheaper to buy extra gas than a new transmission.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:13 AM   #884
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I almost always tow in "D". I have a Scan Gauge II monitor and watch trans fluid temp. Not sure if it is pre or post cooler, but towing temp usually stays in the 220-240 range. Not much different than not towing. My theory is to let the truck do what the engineers designed it to do. Hopefully that pans out for me in the long run. This is my third small Toyota truck that I bought new. 1987-200,000+ miles, 1999 50,000+miles lost in divorce, 2012 30,000 miles so far. Towed in mountains with all of them.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:47 AM   #885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaThruLens View Post
Thanks you all for the great info in this thread. I have read through all 43+ pages and have one simple question: Do you tow in D or 4?

Taking the new boat to the Keys next week. Trip is about 200 miles in South FLorida heat. No major hills other than highway overpasses. Truck is an 08' TRD sport DC longbed. Has the full tow package. TSB was not done but I did add a Hellwig 979 helper spring kit. That has helped a bunch on short trips to the local boat ramp. Boat is listed at 2650 +480 for the motor. Trailer is listed at 850 so I am close to 4k dry. figure another 1000lbs for beer ice, wife and kids stuff i am pushing a bit over 5k. Trailer has surge brakes. Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by piercedtiger View Post
Short answer: it depends.

If the truck can hold D without down shifting constantly, just use D. If it keeps down shifting to maintain speeding, then use 4. I tow routinely in 6th with my manual as long as the engine doesn't lug or struggle. If it does, drop it down a gear.
The whether to tow in D or 4 doesn't apply to a manual. It's about the torque converter and heat which a manual lacks a torque converter and heat is rarely a factory with a manual transmission. Tow in whichever gear works best for that situation and no need to worry about excessive shifting.

One member here claimed that in the Toyota owners manual it is stated to ONLY tow in 4. I didn't see that in my manual and I did ask for a page number from the member who stated such. I either never saw the reply or they never replied. Basically what was said in the above quote is correct. You should be fine in OD. You could use 4 only to be safe than sorry but it'll get worse MPGs.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:13 AM   #886
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I find this hard to believe myself, but here it is, from the 2014 Owner's Manual page 237:

● To maintain engine braking efficiency and charging system performance
when using engine braking, do not use fifth gear (5-speed manual transmission),
sixth gear (6-speed manual transmission), or do not put the transmission in
D (automatic transmission).

Okay, it does say "when using engine braking", I would assume this would mean in a situation like driving down a hill or such.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:44 PM   #887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jefes Taco View Post
The whether to tow in D or 4 doesn't apply to a manual. It's about the torque converter and heat which a manual lacks a torque converter and heat is rarely a factory with a manual transmission. Tow in whichever gear works best for that situation and no need to worry about excessive shifting.

One member here claimed that in the Toyota owners manual it is stated to ONLY tow in 4. I didn't see that in my manual and I did ask for a page number from the member who stated such. I either never saw the reply or they never replied. Basically what was said in the above quote is correct. You should be fine in OD. You could use 4 only to be safe than sorry but it'll get worse MPGs.
The actual gear "D" does not apply to manuals, you're right. However, the CONCEPT of using the highest or over-drive gear while towing applies to both.

An auto will switch between gears frequently if you're towing in too high of a gear, regardless of if you're in D or 4.

A manual will lug the engine, and potentially stall if you're in too high of a gear because it can't automatically drop down a gear to prevent stalling.

Either way, you need to pay attention.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:41 PM   #888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piercedtiger View Post
The actual gear "D" does not apply to manuals, you're right. However, the CONCEPT of using the highest or over-drive gear while towing applies to both.

An auto will switch between gears frequently if you're towing in too high of a gear, regardless of if you're in D or 4.

A manual will lug the engine, and potentially stall if you're in too high of a gear because it can't automatically drop down a gear to prevent stalling.

Either way, you need to pay attention.
Bingo.

When towing with the 5AT, I can feel the transmission unlock the converter. When that happens, I manually shift to a lower gear until the grade changes and I believe I can upshift. If the transmission repeatedly unlocks the converter or shifts between two gears, I downshift to the lower one and leave it there until the the grade changes. Even if you can't feel the difference, you can certainly see it through the tachometer, but only if you're paying attention.
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:35 AM   #889
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Is there anything special I should know about towing with a 6 speed manual tranny? I have a 20ft dual axle travel trailer with brakes. She weighs 3500lbs empty and has a tongue weight of 500lbs. We live in the Sierra Foothills about an hour west of the Rubicon Trail and Lake Tahoe so curvy country roads with steep grades are pretty much the norm around here.

We normally haul her with hubby's big ole 95 F-250 4x4 long bed automatic but between the 2, that's almost 40 feet of vehicle. I hardly ever drive his beast and because it sits so high, it's a challenge for me to back the trailer up without having to get out a million times to see what's going on back there. I do much better in my Tacoma but hubby doesn't think my Blue is big enough to tow my trailer. I do have the factory installed tow package.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:12 PM   #890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LovetoCamp View Post
Is there anything special I should know about towing with a 6 speed manual tranny? I have a 20ft dual axle travel trailer with brakes. She weighs 3500lbs empty and has a tongue weight of 500lbs. We live in the Sierra Foothills about an hour west of the Rubicon Trail and Lake Tahoe so curvy country roads with steep grades are pretty much the norm around here.

We normally haul her with hubby's big ole 95 F-250 4x4 long bed automatic but between the 2, that's almost 40 feet of vehicle. I hardly ever drive his beast and because it sits so high, it's a challenge for me to back the trailer up without having to get out a million times to see what's going on back there. I do much better in my Tacoma but hubby doesn't think my Blue is big enough to tow my trailer. I do have the factory installed tow package.

With the factory tow package and V6 I think you would be fine. That combo is rated for 6500lbs and 650lbs tongue weight. Just remember to leave more distance between you and other cars, and pay attention to the engine. If it starts to lug/struggle, then downshift. I can tow in 6th no problem on flats or down grades. Going up I have to shift sooner, and keep the RPMs higher than when not towing.

You'll also have to swing wider than normal, and backing up just became more fun. Being a 20ft dual axle, it'll probably track better than some of the landscape trailers I've towed. You'll also need to slow down on rough roads and for bumps, and keep an eye on sway. If the trailer starts to sway and jerk the rear of the truck back and forth, just slow down until it subsides and keep your speed below that threshold.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:18 PM   #891
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maverick491: your Towing Bible is timeless, as valuable to us towing novices now as it was seven years ago. Many thanks.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:34 PM   #892
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Hi, I've never really towed anything but I'm always loading the bed up with stuff for work. Recently I've been hauling long loads and was planning on getting a Thule rack or something for putting everything on top of the cab and across the bed.

http://www.autoanything.com/truck-ra...500-truck-rack

I found a trailer hitch extender that I was thinking about as well. If I was going to go this route...

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=0

The weight would be Distributed inthe bed and on the extender of course. I'm just trying to figure out which would be better.. Having 500 lbs of weight up high above the cab or low and off the back of the truck.

My question is that even though I'm not towing, Would the tongue weight be the same for a trailer hitch extender? ( 650 lbs )


http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=0

Thanks to anyone who can give me some info..



Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick491 View Post
Gen 2 Tacoma (2005-2008)


Gen 2 trucks come with two engine options.

The 2.7L I4 (Standard in all regular and access-cab trucks regardless of drive train, not available in the X-runner or double cab trucks)
159 hp @ 5,200 rpm
180 lb.-ft. @ 3,800 rpm
Max. Towing capacity 3,500 lbs.
Max. Tongue weight 350 lbs.

The 4.0L V6 (Standard on the X-runner, and double cab trucks, and available in Pre-runner and 4x4 Access-cab trucks)
236 hp @ 5,200 rpm
266 lb.-ft. @ 4,000 rpm
Max. Towing capacity 6,500 lbs. (*except X-runner 3,500 lbs.)
Max. Tongue weight 650 lbs. (*except X-runner 350 lbs.)

The Gen 2 trucks are available with a factory “towing package” on V6 models only.

This “towing package” consists of a class IV receiver hitch, supplemental engine oil cooler, transmission cooler (again automatic transmission only), Heavy-Duty battery, 130 amp alternator, fully functional 7-way round plug, and a plug and play brake controller pigtail.

Again Toyota offers a dealer installed hitch and 4-flat wiring for the I4 trucks and the V6 trucks that did not come with the towing package. I4 Gen 2 trucks will require the same aftermarket add on parts that the Gen 1 trucks do. The V6 Gen 2 trucks could have all the factory Toyota parts installed to become a “towing package” equipped truck, or could also go aftermarket. These trucks are the ones where the owner will have to look at what they want to tow to decide how far to go with what parts they need.

Example, if your trailer has electronic brakes on it, you WILL need a brake controller. That is not an option. If you are pulling an RV then you will likely want to have the charging circuit connected so that your coach batteries stay fully charged while you are in transit, you may also want to have the bigger alternator and battery installed. If you have an automatic transmission, and are going to tow anything of substance further than say 200 miles more than once a year you WILL need a transmission cooler, and of course you will need a frame mounted receiver hitch as you should NEVER tow from the bumper. Again, more on all this later.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:53 AM   #893
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thats weird that a second gen can only tow 500 more lbs and 50 lb more tongue weight than me...I figured they would be much higher.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:59 PM   #894
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Well actually if im reading it right the gen 1 are 5000 and 500 tongue weight.

So its 1500
and 150 tongue weight more then the gen 1's


Quote:
Originally Posted by J88logue View Post
thats weird that a second gen can only tow 500 more lbs and 50 lb more tongue weight than me...I figured they would be much higher.
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Old 08-21-2014, 04:23 PM   #895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayB27 View Post
Well actually if im reading it right the gen 1 are 5000 and 500 tongue weight.

So its 1500
and 150 tongue weight more then the gen 1's
False,

my tow package is Factory -

and on the tow package it says
6000
and 600 tongue weight.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:01 PM   #896
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Oh, I was just going off the post by the op.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:06 PM   #897
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Yea this thread rocks. Just got back from a family trip up the Cali coast from Huntington Beach to Monterey and back. Camped in Pismo beach and Big Sur. 800 mi round trip. Pulled our Pop Up camper (about 3000 lbs loaded up down grades and tight twisties - I realize that's a light load but going up steep grades the truck works hard). Not to mention the truck has 4 people and about 300lbs of gear too. I only leave it in D on flat or slightly downhill sections. Otherwise 4 or lower depending on the terrain. I've pulled it up to Mammoth and Big bear 8000 ft Elev. No problem! Here's a few pics from the latest trip.








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Old 08-25-2014, 05:12 PM   #898
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So what suspension mods would you suggest to tow with a 98 2.4l?
I was thinking air bags would do the trick to level the bed, is that correct ?
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:23 PM   #899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny99 View Post
So what suspension mods would you suggest to tow with a 98 2.4l?
I was thinking air bags would do the trick to level the bed, is that correct ?
If those are the original springs, it probably does need new ones, air bags, or rebuilt springs. Shocks, too.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:33 PM   #900
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They are indeed ( 263k mi ) and it has had a fiberglass topper on all the while. It still sits level now with the topper and a raised bed platform in it. What springs would be good for it or would the air bags be enough?
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