The Tacoma Towing Bible

[piercedtiger]

Originally Posted by Bababooey

If you are going to be towing 5000 lbs. or less with your truck, you don't need the factory installed towing package. An aftermarket tow hitch and trailer wiring with a four pin plug (such as I suggested in my last post) is fine. You don't need a transmission cooler, an oil cooler, an oversized battery, or a heavy duty alternator.

If you are going to tow anything over 6,000 lbs., it would have been a better idea to buy a Tundra instead of a Tacoma.

Funny... I've towed several things at or above 6000lbs and it handled fine. And I have a smaller, more maneuverable, more fuel efficient vehicle for the rest of the time. Oh and it cost a lot less than a Tundra too.

[piercedtiger]

Not really any of your business, but I've been to 3 colleges, and lived in 2 states. I've had 10-15 jobs in as many cities learning from people of all sorts. You seem to think I've never left "the sticks". I just live there to avoid pretentious people like you.

Oh, and I'm a member on half a dozen Toyota forums reading other people posts.

Considering what I've towed with my truck, it goes places a Tundra would, and it is easier on my wallet with both monthly payments and gas I find your comment to "buy a Tundra" stupid. If you're towing more than 6500lbs (as in 7,000-8,000) then you need a Tundra or something bigger than a Tacoma, but 6500 and under its perfectly capable.

Not sure you meant towing above 6,000 or 5,000lbs to buy a Tundra since you referenced 5,000 doesn't need a tranny cooler or oil cooler, then jumped to 6,000 the next line.

I guess you also missed Maverick's post about needing the bigger battery and alternator to run the charging circuit on the trailer. Doesn't really matter how heavy the trailer is if it has an electrical system that puts more demand on the truck.

I suppose by your logic though oil changes aren't "needed" since they serve no purpose other than to protect you engine and extend it's life. (which is what oil and tranny coolers do)

[j4x4ar3]

Originally Posted by CAPTM

I had been wondering what the deal was regarding towing in overdrive. Now I have the answer - thanks.

Or do you.. that's the real question. I've asked many times in posts in other forums what the user manual says for the 06+ Tacoma for towing. My 05 manual says to put the selector in D for heavy towing [and let the transmission figure things out]. For the most part that works for me out on the flats and increases my gas mileage by 2-4mpg. Obviously when on an uphill grade or heavy head wind I drop down to 4 to prevent hunting but I've never really had a problem.

Just as a side note as well. According to the manual D isn't considered as overdrive. Putting the selector in D though tells the ECU that you want to make overdrive available to it should conditions exist where the overdrive gear could be used. The ECU decides at that point. Putting the selector into 4 though tells the ECU that overdrive is NOT available. Also on downhill grades the engine breaking feature is NOT available when in D.

I don't have a scanner or I would put a screen shot of my manual here. When I get home I'll try and post the page number from the 05 for those that want to go back and look it up yourself.


BTW regarding the post about 5000# not needing the tranny cooler. I would say you're pushing your luck doing that. Without the towing package the gen 2 trucks are rated to tow 3500# from the bumper. Anything more than that then the truck should be equipped with the proper towing package. The bigger battery and alternator are meant to supply power for trailer lighting and the electric brakes on the larger trailer. Smaller 3500# trailers usually only have one axle and 2 brakes. Larger trailers have 2 axles and 4 brakes putting more electrical demand on the system... oh and usually more trailer lights as well as a battery charging circuit for the battery on the tongue of the trailer (backup break power if the trailer gets disconnected in route). Pulling grades as well generates a lot more tranny heat. I would say though if you regularly pull 5000# that you should have gotten a truck with the factory tow package though with the Class IV hitch. Personal opinion but towing at the limit of the hitch on a regular basis isn't always the best thing.

BTW I pull a 26' travel trailer with a loaded weight at just about 5000# and wouldn't even consider it without the factory tow package.

piercedtiger I'm with you on the comments about the truck (daily driver and towing) I've got 63,000 miles on my truck but only about 3000 miles towing my travel trailer. I'm sure glad I don't own a larger Tundra or I would be broke with the fuel costs. My wife also would never drive it because she can barely park the truck I have.

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by j4x4ar3

Or do you.. that's the real question. I've asked many times in posts in other forums what the user manual says for the 06+ Tacoma for towing. My 05 manual says to put the selector in D for heavy towing [and let the transmission figure things out]. For the most part that works for me out on the flats and increases my gas mileage by 2-4mpg. Obviously when on an uphill grade or heavy head wind I drop down to 4 to prevent hunting but I've never really had a problem.

Just as a side note as well. According to the manual D isn't considered as overdrive. Putting the selector in D though tells the ECU that you want to make overdrive available to it should conditions exist where the overdrive gear could be used. The ECU decides at that point. Putting the selector into 4 though tells the ECU that overdrive is NOT available. Also on downhill grades the engine breaking feature is NOT available when in D.

While your statement is technically correct, with regards to D not meaning overdrive only just available and all, it is still safest for people without huge amounts of real world towing experience to keep overdrive un-available to avoid the hunting situation that they may not be aware of. I also have never owned ot driven a Tacoma of either generation with an auto, and as such do not have first hand experience with the tendancy or lack there of to "hunt", but I know my old F-150, and my father's current f-150 both hunt like a S.O.B. with even the slightest resistance, but as this guide is going to be of the most benefit to beginners, I still maintain that it is safest to keep it out of "D" so that they have full engine breaking and preserve their transmission, atleast untill such time as they have more towing miles under their belt, and understand more about how the truck will handle under load.

[j4x4ar3]

Originally Posted by piercedtiger

Plus the fact that most places want your truck to be heavier than your load if renting a trailer so the tow vehicle can keep the trailer under control. I have the tow package V6 so I'm able to tow 6500lbs, but U-Haul didn't like the fact my truck was lighter than my load. Had to get them to check the door tag to realize it was 5450lbs instead of 4400 or something like that. Their computer didn't even register the 4700lbs listed on the Toyota website. I was still 30lbs under the estimated weight of the load, but they let me slide saying "well, it's only 30lbs....."

Partially true.. it's not that the truck has to be heavier than the load being pulled but you hit it with the rest of the explaination. At least in California the law says that the tow vehicle has to be at least 4000# uladen before you can tow the rated limit of 6500# The Tacoma just cuts the limit with a curb weight of about 4200#. I'm sure earlier model Tacoma's didn't meet the 4000# limit since they were smaller.

NOTE: No passenger vehicle regardless of weight, may tow more than one vehicle. No motor vehicle under 4,000 lbs. unladen may tow any vehicle weighing 6,000 lbs. or more gross.

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21715.htm

Unfortunately I'm technically illegally pulling my trailer. When I bought it the brochure stated the GVWR was 6000# but the trailer stamp said GVWR was 7000#. The dealer was even surprised as only one other was stamped 7000#. He figured there must have been a change mid production run since the trailers were the same year and model.

[j4x4ar3]

Originally Posted by maverick491

While your statement is technically correct, with regards to D not meaning overdrive only just available and all, it is still safest for people without huge amounts of real world towing experience to keep overdrive un-available to avoid the hunting situation that they may not be aware of. I also have never owned ot driven a Tacoma of either generation with an auto, and as such do not have first hand experience with the tendancy or lack there of to "hunt", but I know my old F-150, and my father's current f-150 both hunt like a S.O.B. with even the slightest resistance, but as this guide is going to be of the most benefit to beginners, I still maintain that it is safest to keep it out of "D" so that they have full engine breaking and preserve their transmission, atleast untill such time as they have more towing miles under their belt, and understand more about how the truck will handle under load.

I will only agree with you regarding experience points needed by a driver so that they understand the whole towing experience. As for it being safer to tow in 4 that's debatable. If there were a safety issue then it wouldn't be listed in the manual to use D. If anything.. using D might cause someone inexperienced to go slower to avoid the hunting which IMO is safer

[piercedtiger]

Originally Posted by j4x4ar3

Partially true.. it's not that the truck has to be heavier than the load being pulled but you hit it with the rest of the explaination. At least in California the law says that the tow vehicle has to be at least 4000# uladen before you can tow the rated limit of 6500# The Tacoma just cuts the limit with a curb weight of about 4200#. I'm sure earlier model Tacoma's didn't meet the 4000# limit since they were smaller.

I'm only going by what U-Haul told me. They would not let me rent an auto transport until they decided the truck was only 30lbs lighter than the car/trailer I would be towing. It didn't matter that my truck was rated to tow 6500lbs, had a class IV hitch, etc. Only that the truck was lighter than the auto transport's and vehicle's combined weight.

[j4x4ar3]

Originally Posted by piercedtiger

I'm only going by what U-Haul told me. They would not let me rent an auto transport until they decided the truck was only 30lbs lighter than the car/trailer I would be towing. It didn't matter that my truck was rated to tow 6500lbs, had a class IV hitch, etc. Only that the truck was lighter than the auto transport's and vehicle's combined weight.

That's UHaul for you. They won't rent trailers to Ford Exploder drivers either. I think they're just afraid that someone's going to wreck their already junk trailers. I usually rent from one of the other local guys round here to be honest. UHaul claims way to much stuff for "insurance purposes". If the law says it's ok they shouldn't have to worry about it.

[piercedtiger]

Originally Posted by j4x4ar3

That's UHaul for you. They won't rent trailers to Ford Exploder drivers either. I think they're just afraid that someone's going to wreck their already junk trailers. I usually rent from one of the other local guys round here to be honest. UHaul claims way to much stuff for "insurance purposes". If the law says it's ok they shouldn't have to worry about it.

Tell me about it.... Unfortunately, it's the only place I know of to get a full auto transport around here. And my buddy was the one paying for it since it was for him. We had trouble the first time, so the second time we knew to have them look up a Ford Fiesta, give them the door tag weight, and make sure they knew we'd rented the same damn thing before!

I also plan on getting a trailer of my own that could be used to haul cars if needed. Just to have one, tow something in better condition, and make sure it has electric brakes.

[buyobuyo]

I have a question for you all about brands. It appears that hidden hitch and drawtite have the same parent company, but a drawtite hitch is more expensive than the hidden hitch? Is it really any different? Also, is Curt a good brand? I'm looking to add a hitch to my truck for towing the project car I bought recently.

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by buyobuyo

I have a question for you all about brands. It appears that hidden hitch and drawtite have the same parent company, but a drawtite hitch is more expensive than the hidden hitch? Is it really any different? Also, is Curt a good brand? I'm looking to add a hitch to my truck for towing the project car I bought recently.

Here is another place to buy hitches...http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2007_T...oma+Pickup.htm

In the gen 2 trucks, yes, it does appear that drawtite and hidden hitch are using the same part. I have seen other applications where they do not look alike, so to answer your rquestion in this case, buy the cheeper one as they are the same piece.

With regard to curt hitches. A buddy of mine bought one for his 98 tacoma. I had a hidden hitch on my 04 tacoma. Both gen 1 bodys, and the frame remained un-changed through those model years, but his curt hitch was much more visable benieth his bumper, and even without a drawbar in it, it still protruded about an inch and a half past his bumper. The hidden hitch on my 04 was not at all noticable when there was no drawbar in it, and definately did not protrude enough for me to have to worry about nailing my shin on it when walking the back of the truck.

Also, if you look at the soomed actuall photos on the link above, you'll see that the curt is just end welded together, while the other two, the load bar passes through the brackets, and is welded on both sides of the bracket, which seems like it is going to be a good bit more durable to me for not that much more money. Will it functiton fine and safely for towing. It will probably be fine, but what you gain in price point you sacrifice in looks and a clean install, but that is just my personal oppinion with regard to asthetics, it is a decision you have to make for yourself.

[maverick491]

The write up for a full brake controller install on GEN 2 V6 trucks without the tow package is now finished and added into the original Towing Bible here

Assuming that Homer J wants a brake controller installed, I'll try to doccument this project better when I get together with him to work on his truck.

In the mean time thank boser65 for providing me with wiring diagrams, pictures of harnesses, and voltage readings from a non-tow package equipped truck so I could figure this out.

If anyone has any problems with this please feel free to contact me and I'll do my best to help you out.

Also if someone with a 2.7L truck wants to send me some pictures and a few specific voltage readings I'll try to adapt it for the 4cyl guys too. Same goes for you Gen 1 guys, though it may be a little tougher to figure out the routing without one of them in front of me.

Till then tow safe, keep it between the lines and the rubber side down.

[j4x4ar3]

Speaking of Brake controllers. The Prodigy is probably the best proportional controller out there. You'll find that a majority of people that tow will recomend the Prodigy. Surf on over to http://www.rv.net/ and you'll see the "rave" reviews.

Just as easy to install as the one you have... actually easier because you don't have to use the pigtail that Toyota supplies. The one they supply doesn't have the molex plugs on both ends. Tekonisha sells a Toyota pigtail to go with the Prodigy which has both ends on it. The install is literally a 10 minute plug-n-play installtion if you have the factory tow package.

Here's where I mounted mine... easy to activate the manual lever as well if needed. Some have mounted it in the coin pocket just to the left of my install but I found it harder to reach.

[boser65]

Awesome job Adam ... many thanks!

[t12i_867]

Hi i have a noob ? Well i did some towing this past weekend about 140 miles round trip with my 2002 crew cab v6 trd tacoma.. (not 4wd) i was towing my street bike and a 5x8 trailer.. I would say total weight is about a 1000 pounds or less. I know this has been asked way to many times but what gear should i be in? and does it have to be out of overdrive? i drove it in D with overdrive on, but i wasen't sure if it was hunting for gears or not. i went up some pretty big hills with the ac on.. it seems to do fine, And is it ok to take the overdrive in and out of overdrive? i took it out of overdrive a few times when i hit some steep hills.. then i would put it back into overdrive once it was over the hill. is this all okay? =) thanks!

[maverick491]

Originally Posted by t12i_867

Hi i have a noob ? Well i did some towing this past weekend about 140 miles round trip with my 2002 crew cab v6 trd tacoma.. (not 4wd) i was towing my street bike and a 5x8 trailer.. I would say total weight is about a 1000 pounds or less. I know this has been asked way to many times but what gear should i be in? and does it have to be out of overdrive? i drove it in D with overdrive on, but i wasen't sure if it was hunting for gears or not. i went up some pretty big hills with the ac on.. it seems to do fine, And is it ok to take the overdrive in and out of overdrive? i took it out of overdrive a few times when i hit some steep hills.. then i would put it back into overdrive once it was over the hill. is this all okay? =) thanks!

It sounds like you did fine. It is a safety rule to keep it out of overdrive. If the truck is managing the load the the overdrive rule can be ignored. I wrote it the way I did to prevent people who didn't know any better from doing damage to the transmissions. If the truck is hunting you'll hear as well as feel the transmission kick out of overdrive, and the engine RPM will increase, then almost as abruptly you'll feel it re-engage overdrive and the RPMs will drop. you can also watch this happen on your tach.

It is more than safe to take the truck in and out of overdrive manually, in fact you did exactly as you are supposed to do. Take it out of overdrive when you need to climb a hill, and then once you are on flat ground again you can go ahead and put it back in overdrive. Just be watchfull for the tranny hunting, and if you do that you and your transmission will get along just fine.

[t12i_867]

Originally Posted by maverick491

It sounds like you did fine. It is a safety rule to keep it out of overdrive. If the truck is managing the load the the overdrive rule can be ignored. I wrote it the way I did to prevent people who didn't know any better from doing damage to the transmissions. If the truck is hunting you'll hear as well as feel the transmission kick out of overdrive, and the engine RPM will increase, then almost as abruptly you'll feel it re-engage overdrive and the RPMs will drop. you can also watch this happen on your tach.

It is more than safe to take the truck in and out of overdrive manually, in fact you did exactly as you are supposed to do. Take it out of overdrive when you need to climb a hill, and then once you are on flat ground again you can go ahead and put it back in overdrive. Just be watchfull for the tranny hunting, and if you do that you and your transmission will get along just fine.

Thanks! i feel alot better now.. so i do just leave it in D? right ? not in any other gear? thanks for ur time =)