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Old 03-20-2008, 05:01 PM   #1
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Towing a Tacoma behind an Rv

Hello,

I just purchased a 2008 Tacoma, double cab, long bed 4X4 with an automatic transmission.

I would like to tow the truck behind my RV... and I'm getting a few mixed messages about what needs to be done to the truck to accomplish that... does anyone have any suggestions or methods that they currently use?

Any information would be great!
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:40 PM   #2
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How were you planning on towing it? I'm assuming a car dolly would probably work. I have the manual with locker so I could put mine in neutral and the open rear diff would be fine... Not sure about the auto if you have an LSD.

What does the manual say about towing it? It should be in the emergency section. Don't have mine handy, and it might be different between auto and manual. You MIGHT be able to use a tow bar and put it in neutral, but check the manual. I've never towed one, mine has always been the one doing the towing.
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:07 PM   #3
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Considering how much of your hard-earned money you spent on that beautiful new truck, I'd buy a two-wheel dolly like Piercedtiger suggested. I've used them a few times back in my hotrod days-they are very reliable. You can even rent them.
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridgerunner View Post
Considering how much of your hard-earned money you spent on that beautiful new truck, I'd buy a two-wheel dolly like Piercedtiger suggested. I've used them a few times back in my hotrod days-they are very reliable. You can even rent them.
I was thinking he could just pull the front on the dolly and strap it down.... I just don't know what you have to do with an auto. A manual you just pop it in neutral and lock the doors. Some autos have a button to push to pop it out of park without leaving the key in, but I don't know about these new ones. I'm assuming it'll still have be in neutral like a manual, but not sure how you do that on this truck. Also, I don't know if the LSD has any affect of not. Should say in the manual though.

Or it could be backed on the dolly, but then when you take your keys out the steering locks. Not sure how that would affect the tracking , but I guess as long as the front wheels are straight it should act like any other trailer. The dollies have pivot plates so the vehicle can turn on the dolly for corners.
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Old 03-20-2008, 11:17 PM   #5
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Thanks for the responses everyone... I've also found out that there is a driveline disconnect, along with a pump that can be used to flat tow (all 4 wheels down) the truck... but it is almost $4,000 so I probably won't be going that route.
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:14 AM   #6
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Drive line disconnect ?
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piercedtiger View Post
ISome autos have a button to push to pop it out of park without leaving the key in, but I don't know about these new ones.
My '08 has a manual shifter release without the key - it's under a little tab in front of the shift position labels.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:44 AM   #8
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Buy a mini-cooper and park it in the RV's glove box.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmatheny View Post
My '08 has a manual shifter release without the key - it's under a little tab in front of the shift position labels.
Ah. ok. thanks. I only test drove an auto for a few minutes so I had no idea where they were hiding it!
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concrete jedi View Post
Drive line disconnect ?
Yeah... it seems pretty cool. All of the RV shops here in San Diego are saying that they can be towed, 4 wheels on the ground, with no problems. In fact, I've seen quite a few in just the past few days.

Here is the link to one brand of Drive-Line disconnect and lubrication pump. http://remcotowing.com/products.php

I'll keep you all posted on what I come up with in case anyone else is interested in doing it.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:14 AM   #11
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I once hauled a automatic Ranger behind a U-Haul without a dolly by leaving the truck idling in neutral. Not optimal, but I was in a real pinch. U-Haul had promised me a dolly then didn't deliver.
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:56 AM   #12
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Ok guys, here's the skinny on towing a vehicle behind an RV.

Your best, and safest route is with a fully enclosed car hauler.

You can pick up a 24' Haulmark for $3800 - $4500 if you watch for the factory to dealer incentive adds.

Second to that would be an open top car hauler. $2500 - $3500. But you run the risk or stone chips and or damage from "road gators" while in transit.

A dolly will be the next best option, but is of only minor real benefit to a RWD AUTOMATIC vehicle without additional modifications to the vehicle being towed.

Towing 4 wheels down is generally ok, with a MANUAL transmission with a MANUAL transfer case (if it is 4wd), with both shift levers in the Neutral position.

Here is what is required to tow an automatic transmission RWD or 4WD vehicle, with an automatic transfer case like our gen 2 trucks.

RWD only will either need the additional electric transmission fluid pump or the driveline disconnects. (4WD would require additional driveline disconnects for the front axle) As well as an actuator for the vehicle's brakes, and towing lights.

RWD is kind of pointless with a dolly as you still have to perform the same mods as if you were going to tow it wheels down.4WD with a Dolly still requires either an additional electric transmission fluid pump or the rear driveline disconnects, and towing lights. And either brakes on the tow Dolly (pretty rare) or an actuator for the vehicle's brakes.

Here's why. To over simplify an Automatic transmission, it works by using fluid pressure to open and close gates in the valve body which in turn controlls what gear you are in. Without the engine driven pump, you have to have some other additional pump taking over that job or else for all intents and purposes you'll be towing the vehicle in question in first gear, first gear plus 65-70 MPH equalls BAD. So you need the extra pump to provide pressure to allow the trans. to shift to the correct gear for the speed you are travelling and not grenade itself.

The driveline disconnects solve the same problem by taking the transmission out of the equation by disconnecting the wheels from the drivetrain, thereby removing the need to have the transmission in the correct gear. Fundamental problem with the disconnects is that if it's raining or dark out when you get where you are going you still have to crawl under the truck to re-connect everything, if you want to use the TOAD (RV speak for towed vehicle) to go somewhere. ALSO for anyone thinking about doing this who intends to off-road the TOAD. The driveline disconnects are fine for normal everyday type of driving, but are somewhat weaker than the solid pieces that they replace, so any rock crawling or off camber situations can put enough stress on them to break them.

Also check your local laws as well as laws of the places you plan to visit as some states do not allow Dollys and others prohibit from towing wheels down.

The reason I recommend the full trailers in the first place is that the trailer will come with everything you need, no need for a trans pump, driveline disconnect, and a brake actuator or towing lights. By the time you add all that shit up, as well as the fact that the disconnects make the driveline weaker, you'll be spending upwards of $500 - $1000 more than you would for the enclosed or flat-top trailer of your choice. And atleast in Jersey it costs the same to register a tow dolly as it does to register a tri-axle fifth-wheeler. So why spend more money and do more work to get the same place.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:03 AM   #13
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^thanks! I was wondering when you were going to chime in! I've towed a few cars, but it was always with a flatbed auto transport so I never had to worry about that.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piercedtiger View Post
^thanks! I was wondering when you were going to chime in! I've towed a few cars, but it was always with a flatbed auto transport so I never had to worry about that.
Sorry I took a nap when I got home from work this morning, then I had to have my coffee, it took me a while to get to the new threads.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick491 View Post
Sorry I took a nap when I got home from work this morning, then I had to have my coffee, it took me a while to get to the new threads.
lol This might help you wake up. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/off...-joke-day.html
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:56 PM   #16
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Maverick491... thanks for the info... you're a ninja!
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Old 03-21-2008, 01:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom View Post
should not be that hard to un bolt at the axle side and other side should be splined and slide off and then store inside the truck
Correction here....4x4 are not splined, well they are, but the splines are in the middle of the shaft...there are flanges on either end of the driveshaft.
Pre-runners and 5-lug have the splined drive shafts.

Another issue with disconnecting the drive shafts..that silly carrier bearing on the rear shaft....just more hassle when it comes to disconnecting.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:00 PM   #18
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Thank you for the knowledge Maverick! That was great reading.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looter View Post
Maverick491... thanks for the info... you're a ninja!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridgerunner View Post
Thank you for the knowledge Maverick! That was great reading.
You guys are welcome. I try to provide information where I can. Towing and RVing topics just happen to be one of my areas of expertise.
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