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92 P/U no start

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Old 09-10-2011, 08:56 AM   #1
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92 P/U no start

hello all
I recently installed a rebuilt long block in a friends 92 P/U. The truck started up instantly when I was finished. It now will not start. I have checked the fuses and relays they are in working order. I charged the battery I even tried a jumpstart it was unsuccessful. Put meter on ignition switch it has voltage where it should be. I get no dash lights when key is on. With meter connected to ignition switch and the switch on I get a voltage drop at the switch it reads only 2+volts.
I am stumped, any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you James
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Old 09-10-2011, 09:10 AM   #2
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Just a suggestion but try taking the cables of your battery scrape the terminal posts down with a wire brush and make sure you are getting good contact with your cables. Sounds like a bad battery if your only reading 2 volts
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:51 PM   #3
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92 P/U many codes

Hi
I posted earlier and you guys help a ton. 92 toy P/U 4x4 5spd no a/c.22RE engine Blown head gasket with much water coming from cat and tail pipe
dropped a long block in and with your help got it running.
I adjusted the valves got it nice and smooth, till this morning rough running low power strong rich fuel smell. I have previously replaced both O2 sensors to clear a 21 code. ran well after that. It now has trouble codes 21 27 43 52. I was doing this work as a favor it is now a nightmare.
Thanks for your previous help and thanks for any future help.Crash
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:39 PM   #4
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You say you adjusted the valves on this new longblock. Let me ask you this: did you also retorque the headbolts like is usually recommended?

I had a new longblock 22r installed in my old 1986 4x4. It ran great for 500 miles, at which time I took it back for an oil change, valve adjustment, and head bolts retorqued. It then started to idle rough and smell like fuel sometimes also.

Long, expensive story, but the short version is my mechanic warmed the truck up, removed the valve cover, adjusted the valves, allowed the engine to cool, and then retorqued the head. What he didn't know, and I didn't know either, was that retorqeing the head bolts on these engines will tighten the valve clearance. The engine was missing on one cylinder due to zero clearance on the valves and at least one valve hanging open. A miss means raw, unburned fuel out the exhaust, low power and rough running.

In my case, I checked the compression and got 175,175,150,175 on cylinders 1-4. Didn't think to check the valve clearance because I just paid someone who should have been competent to do that for me. Chased everything else you could think of and finally found a new mechanic who figured it out.

I drove around 1,000 miles with the engine in that condition. The catalytic convertor had to be replaced after being soaked in gas for that long, and the number three cylinder always burned oil after that.

Don't let it go too long before figuring out what's up.
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