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79-95 toyota help and parts here!

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Old 11-07-2013, 09:46 PM   #41
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Konvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi22RE View Post
Hey Konvict KROG, I've been researching and looking over a lot of the items that you have listed as causes for my surging idle. I may have finally found the culprit, or not?

The Dashpot. My truck does not have one? The little circular object with the bracket is there but there is no line or wire attached to it or the screw whichever is the actual term. Nor does it have the Throttle Stop Screw.

I'm not sure if its always been missing or not but this issue only happened after I had a toyota mechanic friend change the head gasket for me. And I can tell you now, I know he rushed on my motor because he left a couple oil pan screws off and the header wasn't tightened up all the way etc.

I can post a pic if needed.
The dash pot, from what I understand is for emissions and holds the throttle open slightly when shifting to cause the hanging air fuel ratio to burn off a little bit better or something. It does or can cause some rev hang and or a little bit of surging. I have never had a problem with just removing the vacuum line and filter from the metal parr and sticking a vacuum line plug on it then adjusting the idle if needed.

I actually had no ide what it was the first time I took it off and because of the way it looked I assumed it was just a vacuum leak source.

If its what I am thinking its on the front of the intake with a short rubber hose hanging from a metal diaphragm deal that has a plastic housing dangling on it. In the service manuals it shows a oicture that says DP manual trans only. If you want to keep it sometimes the plastic dangling piece (filter) gets clogged up and changing it out with one that is new or clean fixes the problem.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:26 PM   #42
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This is a good thread to get up and running.

Do you have a line on and IAC and TPS for an 85 22REC?

Also whoever was looking for a dash peice for and 83, Green Truck on Pirate 4x4 makes ome killer aftermarket ones that looke better than OEM.

I have a stash of random stuff off my 85 if anyone needs it. I will let it go pretty cheap + shipping.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:26 PM   #43
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Konvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shedKonvict KROG is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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I actually just had to find an IAC for my 85. For whatever reason it was not there.

I have a TPS but I do not know if its good at the moment. I will have to look up the pin test for it when I have time.

I am moving on short notice so I am extremely swamped with stuff to do currently
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konvict KROG View Post
The dash pot, from what I understand is for emissions and holds the throttle open slightly when shifting to cause the hanging air fuel ratio to burn off a little bit better or something. It does or can cause some rev hang and or a little bit of surging. I have never had a problem with just removing the vacuum line and filter from the metal parr and sticking a vacuum line plug on it then adjusting the idle if needed.

I actually had no ide what it was the first time I took it off and because of the way it looked I assumed it was just a vacuum leak source.

If its what I am thinking its on the front of the intake with a short rubber hose hanging from a metal diaphragm deal that has a plastic housing dangling on it. In the service manuals it shows a oicture that says DP manual trans only. If you want to keep it sometimes the plastic dangling piece (filter) gets clogged up and changing it out with one that is new or clean fixes the problem.

Hope this helps
Yeah I have done more research and you just stated what I have found. But not completely sure on it causing the surging idle, lots of threads for and a lot against it. Also, I don't think that is my issue as I do not believe it was ever on there when I got it, and it never had any issues before. Mines a 93 so the set up is a little bit different I believe.

Yeah you got the right one. But mine isn't there at all, just the bracket and screws but not the filter or anything else.

Oddly, the issue is not present when its cold, it comes up as its warm, when it gets warmer the surging idle goes away (maybe 5 minutes after a cold start).

The truck has no loss of power anywhere, no miss, feels great minus the surging idle and fuel consumption. I'm about ready to drive it into the pacific ocean.

Also, the I have been adjusting the idle with the idle screw on the Tbody; I lower it and the next day the idle sounds a lot higher again. But the screw has not moved a bit, something is kicking the idle up remotely.
Also fuel consumption is ridiculous; 11 mpg is retarded. 160 miles traveled per 13.5 gallons. Might be time to sell it, too long trying to find the issue. My damn 4.10 geared mustang (very low gears in mustang land) saw 190 miles traveled per 10.5 gallons last tank.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:32 PM   #45
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So, I finally fixed my truck just as I was about to push it off a cliff. Just in case anyone out there finds this thread while doing research I will post my findings.

I've gone through a ton of part checking to make sure they function properly but found one that did not. The IAC valve or Auxiliary Air Valve, was the last place I looked because simply I did not know how it function on these motors and the fact that it was $110. So I found a way to test it.
1. Turn the truck on and let it run until it is fully warmed up and the idle is surging.
1B. (too lazy to renumber lol) Turn the truck off completely.
2. Quickly remove the air intake tube set up leading to the throttle body.
3. Locate the IAC hole in the Tbody (about 1/4" size)
4. Cover the hole using DUCT tape. I would not use anything else as you don't want it getting sucked in to the motor. Make sure the tape is super sticky and will not come off.
5. Reassemble the intake tube.
6. Turn the truck on and you will immediately notice that your idle is much lower. You can than adjust the idle screw on the Tbody to 700/750 rpm.
7. Press the brakes and you will notice the surging is gone.
8. Now you know the IAC is the root of all your surging idle issues so you can no disassemble the intake tube and remove the duct tape. I would not leave it in there for any period longer than this test. If you do, that's on you. I take no responsibility for anyone's stupidity lol.
9. Buy a new IAC.

Finally glad to see my 22re running right. Now to get some stock wheels/tires for daily driver duties.
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