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Motor swap and now water in the oil >:(

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Old 08-12-2009, 06:56 PM   #1
1999 Taco TRD xtracab 3.4 V6 4x4
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Motor swap and now water in the oil >:(

Hi i just got done swaping a 22re motor which was said to be good. Well it starts but theres water in the oil. So we checked the compression every one is 120 psi. So dose this mean the head gasket is shot or something worse? It was exposed to alot of rain before hand and the manifold wasnt attched could it got water in that away?
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999tacotrd View Post
Hi i just got done swaping a 22re motor which was said to be good. Well it starts but theres water in the oil. So we checked the compression every one is 120 psi. So dose this mean the head gasket is shot or something worse? It was exposed to alot of rain before hand and the manifold wasnt attched could it got water in that away?
One of two things: headgasket or timing chain. The 22RE is known for having the timing chain guides (the right side) break. When this happens the chain can actually rub through the timing chain cover into the water pump chamber. I have experienced this first hand. I am also in the process of changing a RE head gasket. Check my build in the Build section. To replace the timing chain cover you have to remove the head any way. IF it were me, I would get a timing chain set and a head gasket set and replace them both.

I have loads of info on this.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:07 PM   #3
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ok i will just do that then i got my old motor and i took the cover off and looked at it the guides look good on it so i will probly use them and get a new head gasket as well.

wish i would had know this before puttung the motor in it would had been so much easier outside the truck.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:09 PM   #4
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I just got both sets (timing set and head set) off E-bay for a little over $70. If you can, they make a metal backed guide for the right side. I recommend that one. I will smags some pics for ya quick.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:12 PM   #5
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Here is what the gasket set looks like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT



And the timing chain set
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2344wt_1165
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:19 PM   #6
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Well today i changed my oil in my 1997 jimmy and i was like hell with it i will use this old oil in my 88 yota just to rule out the rain water issue and what do know started right up ran for about 10 mins check oil and its black as can be not water at all I dont have to do the headgasket after all but now i ran into another issue the dam thing wont go into gear now well when its running it wont but if the truck is turned off and i push the clutch in it will go right in as to if i try starting it when its in 1st gear and clutch in it will try start it and it takes off rolling. I adjusted the push rod as far as it can go with blocking the bleeder as well as adjusted the clutch safty switch with no luck. I did notice the clutch salve is leaking fuild so could that be the problem? It worked just fine with the other motor so i dont see why it dont work this time.
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:38 PM   #7
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If your slave is leaking then there will be a possibility of air in the system.

I take it the donor motor was stored outside for a while.
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:43 PM   #8
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about a week or so in the rain on my part the guy i bought it from said it was parked for 5 months but i dont know if it was exposed to rain or not i didnt think to ask. Also it runs like crap and seems to be missing and im sure alot of VAC lines arnt in the right spot nor even hooked up could this cause that problem? And the TPS sensor not even hooked up i have to get a plug to fit the TPS dose it need this sensor?
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:47 PM   #9
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Yes, that would cause it to run rough.

Take you radiator cap off then start it once. Tell me what you see.
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Old 08-13-2009, 10:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
Yes, that would cause it to run rough.
Vac line or the TPS ? if the vac lines could i just block them off or do they have to be hooked up?
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Old 08-14-2009, 09:05 AM   #11
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You need the vac lines hooked up. And if the TPS is bad it can make the engine run bad.

Did you run it with the radiator cap off?
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Old 08-14-2009, 09:47 PM   #12
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Ran it today with the raditor cap off and didnt notice anything! What should i be looking for? Also i cant get it in gear i bought a brand new slave and still wont work. and i got the TPS hooked up but it didnt help a bit it wont idle at all i got most the VAC lines hooked up but not sure if there in the right spots dose that matter? Any diagrams on what line gose where cause i belive this is why it wont idle. Im thinking of going to a mechine shop and custom makeing a push rod for the slave cly so that it will push the TOB futher in and enguge the clutch whould this be a good idea?
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999tacotrd View Post
Ran it today with the raditor cap off and didnt notice anything! What should i be looking for? Also i cant get it in gear i bought a brand new slave and still wont work. and i got the TPS hooked up but it didnt help a bit it wont idle at all i got most the VAC lines hooked up but not sure if there in the right spots dose that matter? Any diagrams on what line gose where cause i belive this is why it wont idle. Im thinking of going to a mechine shop and custom makeing a push rod for the slave cly so that it will push the TOB futher in and enguge the clutch whould this be a good idea?
That's a good thing you didn't notice anything with the cap off. If your head gasket was bad there would be fluid spewing out.

Did you bleed the clutch after you put the new cylinder on?

And yes the vac lines need hooked up in the proper places. The EC section of the FSM has the diagraims you need. It can be found at the link below. It is a large PDF file so it may take a few minutes to download.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/87-4Runne...4runner_88.pdf
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
Did you bleed the clutch after you put the new cylinder on?
Yeah i bleed it with a firend only took about 5 mins maybe its not bleed good enough we will try again and if it still wont work i will get a rod made for it.

and i will check out the Vac lines and see where i went wrong useing that guide.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:02 AM   #15
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Well i got it running and somehow the clutch just fixed it self it works now what was worng still baffles me. Now i got a exchust leak on my manilfod its not where it bolts to the head but where it bolts at the lower part of the manifold. I took it off when doing the swap and as i recall i didnt see a gasket there! should it have one? and also it has a miss to it but other then that i think its good to go.
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