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Wheel studs are too short! What to do....

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Old 04-02-2014, 11:34 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wishbone Runner View Post
Damn, you are 100% right, I was browsing Wheeler's site and saw "longer studs". I am still using the Dorman ones listed a few pages back, but recently noticed that they did not fully seat due to interference on the base of the stud, the "fins" are too big a diameter for the hub. Ran them fine like this, but when I put them back in I will need to figure something out (I removed them when I put my OEM wheels back on for the winter as the lugs are too long for the factory nuts).
I'm also running the Dorman ones, but mine seated just fine. What method did you use to press them in?

Also, rather than remove the studs, why not just get deeper lug nuts, or ones with open ends? It's probably not a good thing to remove and replace the wheel studs too often as eventually the holes in the hub flange will get chewed up and work hardened causing potential cracks and/or they won't hold the studs tight like they should leading to possible broken studs and loose wheels.
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:18 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taco No Baka View Post
I'm also running the Dorman ones, but mine seated just fine. What method did you use to press them in?

Also, rather than remove the studs, why not just get deeper lug nuts, or ones with open ends? It's probably not a good thing to remove and replace the wheel studs too often as eventually the holes in the hub flange will get chewed up and work hardened causing potential cracks and/or they won't hold the studs tight like they should leading to possible broken studs and loose wheels.
I used a lug nut and a big nut that fit over the stud, then torqued as far as I felt comfortable, which was way past the lug torque value. Agreed with you on removing them again, once I re-install the Dorman's and get them fully seated they will not be removed again, I will get another set of lugs, I wasn't prepared for that when I put the OEM wheels back on and had to get it on the road so that was the easiest/quickest option.
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Old 04-03-2014, 11:03 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wishbone Runner View Post
I used a lug nut and a big nut that fit over the stud, then torqued as far as I felt comfortable, which was way past the lug torque value. Agreed with you on removing them again, once I re-install the Dorman's and get them fully seated they will not be removed again, I will get another set of lugs, I wasn't prepared for that when I put the OEM wheels back on and had to get it on the road so that was the easiest/quickest option.
Hmm...same method I used. I did use a 1/2" drive impact to run them down as I was pretty confident my impact didn't have the stones to over torque them. Maybe that made the difference? If you have the same issue putting them back in, I'd try the balljoint press method described in another post to see if you can get them fully seated. If you don't have a balljoint press, you can get them for around $60 at Harbor Freight. They are useful for so much more than just balljoints. I keep mine in the truck in case I pop a U-joint out on the trail. They also work better than C-clamps since you can put more torque on them so they will press harder.
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:24 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taco No Baka View Post
Hmm...same method I used. I did use a 1/2" drive impact to run them down as I was pretty confident my impact didn't have the stones to over torque them. Maybe that made the difference? If you have the same issue putting them back in, I'd try the balljoint press method described in another post to see if you can get them fully seated. If you don't have a balljoint press, you can get them for around $60 at Harbor Freight. They are useful for so much more than just balljoints. I keep mine in the truck in case I pop a U-joint out on the trail. They also work better than C-clamps since you can put more torque on them so they will press harder.
Thanks, I will try that if I cannot get them in.
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Old 04-26-2014, 10:13 AM   #85
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Update, reinstalled the Dormans, had to use a bit of grease to get them to fully seat, torqued them to 110 ft*lbs, all are flush now. I will need to get some open ended OEM style lugs, anyone have a good source?

edit: http://www.ezaccessory.com/Toyota_Le.../98-0003oe.htm
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:55 PM   #86
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2nd Gen wheel stud replacement

I recently acquired my first Tacoma. A 05 double cab Prerunner with only 86K miles! It has aluminum rims and I had to remove the wheel to fix a flat tire. I noticed how short the studs were, and asked the advice at a local fancy wheel and tire place and their opinion was that 5.5 turns on a lug nut "should be sufficient". I don't think so!

With the wheels I have I cannot use E/T lugs because the holes for the studs are too small. So, I decided to extend my lugs. I was asked to do a presentation since I have a 2nd generation Tacoma and to show what is different than what has been presented. This section will be the front wheels, following with the rear wheels.

I purchased my studs from www.wheeladapter.com/wheel_studs.php


The one on the left is what is shipped. The center one has been cut down for my needs, (reduced by 13mm) and the right one is the original.


This is the replacement just prior to being cut down.


This is what I was dealing with having the original studs. 5.5 turns at best to ancohor my wheels to the truck.


This is what is left for "us" to work with using the original studs. Roughly 22mm from wheel to end of stud.



I wont go into how to remove the wheel / brake disk, brake calipers, but this is what your left with. (I've already replaced several studs in this photo.) Notice there is NO cutout, or a whole lot of room to work with the dust shield on. If your using the replacement stud (NOT trimming it down), you will need to at least loosen the Rotor Bearing Assembly. (see picture) If your trimming them down, (as I did) AND your trimming it down enough, then you don't have to loosen the Rotor Bearing Assembly and you can "load" the stud into the hole down at 6:00 position.



Rotor Bearing Assembly loosened enough to insert stud. Be aware, there is an O-ring on the assembly.


MODIFIED stud being inserted in 6:00 position


Now THAT's more like it! I know it does not seem like much, 30mm vs 22mm, but I'm getting 13 turns on my lug nuts whereas before I was getting 5.5 at best!


This is what my finished stud looks like with the wheel in place.

It may (or may not) make a difference, but with my "precious cargo" in my truck, I sure do feel a LOT safer!
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:08 PM   #87
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2nd Gen REAR wheel stud replacement

05 Tacoma Prerunner double cab rear wheel studs.



As you can see, the original studs are the same length as the front studs. (I know the micrometer is offset in this picture, but the reading is accurate).

If you are cutting down your studs (as I did) you should have enough room to insert them after you remove one of the springs on the brake assembly. There is no need to disassemble any of the shoes or other hardware. (I'm not so sure about this with "full length" studs, but there seemed to be enough room to move around without removing anything else).



After inserting my new (modified) studs and replacing the brake drum I still wound up with 30mm of useable studs.

I chose 30mm as the final length of the "useable" stud because it allowed me to use my factory spare, and my locking lug nuts (which didn't have a whole lot of depth).

Entire job took me pretty much the day because I was documenting everything and of course there was the obligatory "trial and error" period.


Any questions, PM me or reply to this thread.

Terry
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:16 PM   #88
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Old 10-18-2014, 03:38 PM   #89
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Wheel studs stripped, need larger knurl. HELP

Hi,

Any one know of a stud that matches the rest of the 05 and up taco rear stud specs but has a knurl diameter larger than 0.58? I got stuck a long ways in the bush with 4 broken studs, got my hands on some that had too small of a knurl and then crushed washers in behind them to make them work because I had no choice. When I got to the nearest small town I managed to scrounge 3 slightly over-sized knurl(0.58) studs and felt slightly better about limping the 300km home. Now I want to replace all twelve on the rear axle and match up all thread patterns, nut sizes etc but I was hoping someone had a recommendation. Thanks!

D
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