Wheel studs are too short! What to do....

So you bought a new set of wheels, or some wheel spacers, and now there isn't enough thread for the lug nuts to safely grab on to. I went through this same thing when I got my new wheels. I did quite a bit of research on the subject and wanted to share what I found.

You basically have two options:
1. Extended-thread lug nuts
2. Longer wheel studs

1. Extended Thread (E/T) Lug nuts

This is the less time consuming option, but only gets you a few more threads worth to grab on to. That's all I needed so this is the option I ended up going with.

Extended-thread lug nuts look just like regular conical seat lugs, but have an extra shank below the seat that fits INSIDE the bolt holes on your rims. This effectively gives the lug nut an extra 0.30" of bite on the stud.

The E/T lug nuts I ended up going with were Gorilla Brand, 12x1.5" threads.

These are the "standard length" conical seat E/T lug nuts. Gorilla Part #68138


You can also get extended thread wheel locks from Gorilla, Part #68631N


I bought my lug nuts and locks from wheelers offroad: One question that I know is going to come up is: Do these come in black? unfortunately, the answer is no. I have the chrome lugs on my black rims and I think it looks great.



2. Longer wheel studs

Before I found that using the E/T lugs would solve my particular issue, I looked into buying longer wheel studs. I found this very informative webpage at hunt4steve.com that outlines what part numbers you need, and gives tips for installation.
http://www.hunt4steve.com/05TacoExtLn.html

Note: I take no credit for any of this writeup, all I did was copy and paste it from the Hunt4steve website to make it easier to access. I also have not done the installation myself so I can't really answer any specific questions about the install.

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great write up reps to you sir.......

 

if anybody wants to know a set of 6 studs at the stealer ship cost 48 bucks

 

ouch

 

Wow my first sticky....

 

Pop a Viagra in your gas tank! Sorry

 

Nice write up,,and important info. don't skimp and get the cheater lug nuts, always longer studs when needed.

Years ago I had a tire/wheel come off and pass me, slammed head on into a Ford Explorer full of kids and there mom. Insurance coverage and no one hurt,,thank god. Cheater lug nuts sheared the ends of the studs off (vibration/stress cracks,,then fail.)

 

I fail to see how lug nuts with shanks would put any more stress on the studs. The TRD offroad rims come with shank and washer style lug nuts stock.

I've also never heard E/T lugs referred to as "cheaters". A google search of the phrase "cheater lug" revealed no relevant results.

 

TRD offroad rims are designed to work with shank and washer lugs, using the correct stud. In my case the lugs I was using were just grabbing the ends of the studs, they stretched and cracked.

Cheater lugs is a Pac NW redneck term that means E/T shank or cone seat, dual purpose. They have a thin nose when used on a cone seat wheel that pinches the ends of the studs when they tighten down, and it usually pulls or weakens some, if not all of the threads on the studs. Horrible chinese imports.

I bet if you google Cheater lugs now, this thread will show up.

 

I don't believe that the Gorilla E/T lugs really fit into that category. These are 60 degree conical seat, which is the same as the rims I have. With the extra shank, they actually take more turns to seat than my stock lug and wheels. They are grabbing plenty of thread.

 

The E/T style Lug Nuts are a great way to make sure you get enough thread bite after installing aftermarket wheels. The Gorrila Lug Nuts are very high quality, and we have never had an issue with them. Every case of a wheel falling off that I have seen, has been an issue of improper torque. The only reason I can think of that all the bolts could break off, is by someone installing an E/T nut that has too long of a shank on it, and the lug nut bottoms out against the hub before the wheel does.

 

look at factory stud with spidertrax wheel spacer....

Do you think the longer studs would solve this problem?? open to any suggestions...






Going to ORDER ANOTHER SET, MAYBE THEY SENT ONES FOR ANOTHER APP/TRUCK/MODEL


Going to ORDER ANOTHER SET, MAYBE THEY SENT ONES FOR ANOTHER APP/TRUCK/MODEL

 

The longer studs should solve this issue, but I think there's something else wrong here, because I've never heard of anyone else having this issue with spidertrax before.

 

Maybe they sent me the wrong ones?

 

That doesnt look right.. is that picture from before you tightened the nuts? I have spider trax on mine and the lug nut had a full bite on the bolt

 

yesh, afterwards the nut is tight

Not sure with that pic, what Happened??

 

KTP - nice right up.
I like you thinking for the make shift presses.
I will keep this in mind if I ever have to make stud changes...

 

They look used to me...Isn't that paint worn off in the pic you posted?

 

wanted to see my build check out my gallery let me know what ya think

 

FREAKING AWESOME WRITE UP!!!!!!! THANKS SO MUCH JUST ORDERED NEW STUD AND LUGS FOR ABOUT $103.26 FROM SUMMIT!!!

I ALMOST HAD ONE COME OFF WITH ME AGAIN TODAY.

GOING TO FEEL GOOD KNOWING THESE ARE INSTALLED.