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Old 02-19-2011, 04:58 AM   #2
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Just get them balanced. After the first spin..... have the guy rotate the wheels on the machine 180 degrees and spin them again.

I've personally never had to deal with any of that Hub/Lug stuff before.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson X View Post
I have a '11 Tacoma DC/LB TRD Sport w/ stock 17"s. Which one do I choose??? They will be mounted on these TIRES (5272). Please excuse my ignorance on this particular topic, but thanks for the help .

HUBCENTRIC

-OR-

NOT HUBCENTRIC

If available I would buy hubcentric if the cost isn't much more. This will assure the wheel is a snug fit and obviously centered.
As long as the non hubcentric wheel is properly aligned and torqued there really shouldn't be any problems with that either.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:25 AM   #4
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Or you could buy some Hub Centric Rings from Here
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:38 AM   #5
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I bought hub centric and if you plan on offroading you might want to as well..
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:19 PM   #7
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Hub centric vs. Non-hub centric has nothing to do with wheeling. Typically a steel wheel is non-hub centric and an non steel alloy wheel is hub centric. Reason being.............the lug nuts.


Hub centric lug



Non hub centric lug

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Old 02-19-2011, 11:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
Hub centric vs. Non-hub centric has nothing to do with wheeling. Typically a steel wheel is non-hub centric and an non steel alloy wheel is hub centric. Reason being.............the lug nuts.
I don't consider myself an expert on this subject (hence the thread), but I don't quite understand your theory. If you're talking about the wheel material, these are alloy wheels, yet one is hub and one is lug. I don't see how the lugnuts play into this either. Basically, unless the hubcentric wheels are exactly the same diameter as my stock wheel hub, I would have to get it bored out or get rings. Or I could go for the lug wheels, and torque 'em right.
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:32 PM   #9
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Get the hub-centric. Its one less thing that could cause problems
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
I emailed pro comp about a similar question I had and here was the response I got:

"Any conical lug will work perfect with the Toyota Tacoma. No need for hub rings."

You don't need hub centric but you would be better off if they had hub centric rather than lug centric. They make for a much better seat and you are ensured that the wheel is centered on the hub. Just make sure the wheel bore is 106mm so it will fit the stock hub.

Most aftermarket wheels are not offered in hub centric b/c in order to fit multiple vehicle types with multiple size wheel hubs they would have to design 5 or 6 different versions of the wheel to work for hub centric design. If they make a lug centric wheel, all you have to do is by acorn style lugnuts and bam, 1 size wheel fits all (well most). It has nothing to do with if the wheel is steel or alloy, it's all about cost of production.
The problem with this is (see bold) that if the studs are not concentric with the spindle, it will always vibrate. And the Toyota hub should be 108mm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson X View Post
I don't consider myself an expert on this subject (hence the thread), but I don't quite understand your theory. If you're talking about the wheel material, these are alloy wheels, yet one is hub and one is lug. I don't see how the lugnuts play into this either. Basically, unless the hubcentric wheels are exactly the same diameter as my stock wheel hub, I would have to get it bored out or get rings. Or I could go for the lug wheels, and torque 'em right.
That's because they are after market wheels and as PSU has said, the manufacturer is offering them as "vehicle specific" in a sense.

Look at it this way. Tacomas come with both steel wheels and alloy wheels. The alloys are hub centric and the steels are not. So does it really matter if the after market wheels are hub centric or not?

If you put an acorn style lug nut on an non-steel alloy wheel, it will come lose and the wheel will fall off.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:31 PM   #12
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Called ProComp today and got some good info. The hubcentric wheels are for Chevy/GM hubs, and the lug centric has a bore of 108mm. He recommended test fitting and balancing w/o the hub rings since it's such a small difference, and using standard 60° conical lugs. I will try to get them balanced with a Roadforce balancer and the Haweka adapter.
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