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How to identify what to cut (285s + lift)

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Old 12-15-2011, 05:55 PM   #1
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How to identify what to cut (285s + lift)

Title says it all. I put on new shoes but they do rub a little on full lock, and reverse. Since I can't be under the fender and drive it at the same time, how do I figure it out?
I may be overcomplicating things.

Also, how come driving backwards causes rubbing but the same stretch driving forward doesn't? I don't understand how driving backwards changes the geometry to cause rubbing.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #2
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Turn to about 90% of the way to full lock and get out and look.

Then turn it the other way.

The places where it's really close, will rub.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #3
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The tires will leave rub marks on what it is rubbing on.
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:18 PM   #5
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Step 1 is to find a location where you can flex the suspension. Or a forklift.

Flex it out at 25%, 50, 75, and full lock in one direction. Check both sides for contact during each flex. Most common areas are fender flare, fender liner, cab mount, frame, UCA, LCA. Mark your areas for trimming.

The metal stuff you can't really do anything about other than the cab mount. It can be chopped and plated. The frame and control arms are more complicated.

The plastic stuff can be trimmed with dykes, a grinder with a cutting wheel, hell even cuts-all scissors. Once you expose the pinch weld, you may very well get contact there too. Best way to handle that is to beat it flat with a hammer....4lb. sledge or so seems to work pretty well.

Repeat all this for steering in the other direction.

Note that trimming the fender liner opens some pockets between the sheetmetal panels that the front tires will essentially throw dirt, rocks, mud, etc. into. Pay special attention to cleaning here when washing the truck after wheelin'. No sense in letting the crud build up in there.

If you expose any metal during your trimming, be sure to re-seal it from the environment somehow (rattle can paint, RTV, whatever you like) to prevent rust.

The rear doesn't steer, so that's a little easier. Just completely stuff each side and trim anything you're contacting.

Questions welcome.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:42 PM   #8
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It's probably rubbing in both directions, but going in reverse the tire treads are catching an edge in the plastic/metal/etc. and making a much louder noise, making it more noticeable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCFirefighter View Post
I wonder if it would be worth to push my adjustable toytec coilovers a little higher to avoid the rubbing.
Maybe find the point where alignment becomes an issue and then go back a turn or so.
Puts your CV boots at a little more risk, if that's a worry to you.

Plus, that really won't help rubbing when the suspension articulates.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:49 PM   #10
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I have 265/70 17 with 1.25" spacers, had tons of rubbing. Took my wheels off and went to town with a dremel, trimmed the exterior fenders plus took out most of the black lining. Took a 16 lbs sledge to the pinch weld and I am all set. Also set my 5100s to 1.75 to avoid can mount rub, still rubs slightly when flexed or wheel is cut 100%.

Went wheeling last weekend with no real issues.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:51 PM   #11
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sees what you did there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgsmith View Post
I have 265/70 17 with 1.25" spacers, had tons of rubbing. Took my wheels off and went to town with a dremel, trimmed the exterior fenders plus took out most of the black lining. Took a 16 lbs sledge to the pinch weld and I am all set. Also set my 5100s to 1.75 to avoid can mount rub, still rubs slightly when flexed or wheel is cut 100%.

Went wheeling last weekend with no real issues.
265/70s with lots of rubbing? Sounds like your wheels already had ideal backspacing, and they are being pushed out too far by using the 1.25" spacer.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPT View Post
265/70s with lots of rubbing? Sounds like your wheels already had ideal backspacing, and they are being pushed out too far by using the 1.25" spacer.

x2.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPT View Post
265/70s with lots of rubbing? Sounds like your wheels already had ideal backspacing, and they are being pushed out too far by using the 1.25" spacer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
x2.
Slight wheel rub on the calipers, so rather than grind them down I got spacers.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:04 PM   #14
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sees what you did there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgsmith View Post
Slight wheel rub on the calipers, so rather than grind them down I got spacers.
Ah...you might want to try a thinner spacer. As thin as possible.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPT View Post
Ah...you might want to try grinding the calipers.

Fixed that for ya.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:08 PM   #16
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sees what you did there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Fixed that for ya.
I disagree, I personally would never remove any material from something that is there for my safety.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPT View Post
I disagree, I personally would never remove any material from something that is there for my safety.
Like your brake rotors that wear down as you use your brakes? Or your brake pads?

Grinding the calipers involves knocking off the casted lettering on the outside of the caliper in most cases. It's not even structural.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:11 PM   #18
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sees what you did there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Like your brake rotors that wear down as you use your brakes? Or your brake pads?

Grinding the calipers involves knocking off the casted lettering on the outside of the caliper in most cases. It's not even structural.
Correct, I would never take a grinder to my rotors or to my brake pads either.

Why not just buy the correct wheels that fit the truck?
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPT View Post
Correct, I would never take a grinder to my rotors or to my brake pads either.
No need - they're self grinding

Quote:
Why not just buy the correct wheels that fit the truck?
Also a sensible solution, but he could grind the calipers without spending hundreds of dollars. And it wouldn't affect his safety one whit.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:16 PM   #20
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sees what you did there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
No need - they're self grinding



Also a sensible solution, but he could grind the calipers without spending hundreds of dollars. And it wouldn't affect his safety one whit.
I didn't tell him not to do it, I said I would never personally do it. And you changed my quote to say I would...false advertising
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