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TPMS Options for Multiple Wheel Sets (I.e., Winter/Summer, Street/Off-Road, etc.)

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Old 09-16-2013, 09:21 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by KWMF View Post
If I am not mistaken all the sensors the system is programmed to "see" have to be in the "Pipe Bomb" lol... Someone else on here did that, PVC pipe with a valve on the end,

worked for him.

yes you are correct... i mis understood the guy i would with.. was just speaking with him again and he cleared up my mistake..
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by fj40taz View Post
yes you are correct... i mis understood the guy i would with.. was just speaking with him again and he cleared up my mistake..
No worries man, I just didn't want you going through the trouble with just one of them bugars and then the light still be flashing at ya!

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Old 09-16-2013, 06:04 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by fj40taz View Post
i figure to get a piece of black threaded pipe and put a shrader valve on one side so u can pump it up to 35psi and mount it to the frame rail or inside of the spare tire...
The very first post of this thread already covers "pipe bombs".
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:03 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fj40taz View Post
i figure to get a piece of black threaded pipe and put a shrader valve on one side so u can pump it up to 35psi and mount it to the frame rail or inside of the spare tire...
Use PVC, and just toss it behind the seat or in one of the bed cubbies if you have a shell.

Black threaded pipe might draw the wrong kind of attention.
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:14 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by Hot Taco View Post
You're very welcome



You do have two solutions for cloning at the moment:
  • Option 1: Order wheels from Discount Tire by phone (or by local store) and tell them you want the programmable EZ-Sensors installed. You'll then have to take your vehicle to local shop that has a tool such as the Bartec Tech300 or Tech400 tool and have them 'clone' the new sensors. If you don't want to have to explain this whole mess to the person taking the order, read this thread to contact the Discount Tire employee I got my information from.
  • Option 2: Order wheels and tires from any retailer with no sensors and order your own EZ-Sensors. (According to the Schrader EZ-Sensor web site, the part number for Tacomas is 33000. You can buy this sensor on Amazon, among other places.) Take everything to a wheel and tire shop that has the Bartec tools, have them install the sensors into your new wheels and 'clone' them. You'll probably have to pay the feel to have your wheels rebalanced, but at least you'll be done messing around!
So really, the only hard part about getting the cloning to work is finding a local shop with a tool to do the programming. I don't plan on ordering any wheels until late Spring (when the snow goes away), so I haven't called any shops yet to find out if they have the tools.

Note that if you want metal valve stems instead of rubber, it appears that you have to get them in addition to the sensors (like these). Seems silly that you can't just order the sensors that way to begin with.

Looks like I'm going with option 2 listed above - I'll order my own sensors from Amazon since they're cheaper (wife has Prime so free quick shipping). I'll post in here with results after I go through this mess. I checked the http://www.whytpms.com/Dealer-Search.aspx site and found a few dealers nearby.

I also made sure the same dealer was on the GSP9700 (Road Force Balancer) list: http://www.gsp9700.com/search/FindLocations.cfm
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:47 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinL View Post
I also made sure the same dealer was on the GSP9700 (Road Force Balancer) list: http://www.gsp9700.com/search/FindLocations.cfm
That's a big plus,

Let us know how it turns out,

I know DT will sell me the 4 EZ-Sensors for 200, including cloning my stock steel sensor numbers also.

I don't know if they road force balance?

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Old 09-18-2013, 05:13 PM   #109
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A good dynamic balance is usually good enough. Road Force balancing isn't a silver bullet and is still dependent on technician skill. The snow tires I ordered mounted on steel wheels were Road Force balanced, but still got vibration. I got them dynamic re-balanced at the dealer - the new weights are clocked about 90 deg from where they were before.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:34 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
A good dynamic balance is usually good enough. Road Force balancing isn't a silver bullet and is still dependent on technician skill. The snow tires I ordered mounted on steel wheels were Road Force balanced, but still got vibration. I got them dynamic re-balanced at the dealer - the new weights are clocked about 90 deg from where they were before.
That's interesting,

When I worked for Honda a few years ago we were not allowed to sell a set of tires for an Odyssey owner unless they agreed to the cost of Road Force balancing, FWIW

Seemed the vans within a certain year range really were very particular to the tires that were put on them.

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Old 09-18-2013, 07:29 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
A good dynamic balance is usually good enough. Road Force balancing isn't a silver bullet and is still dependent on technician skill. The snow tires I ordered mounted on steel wheels were Road Force balanced, but still got vibration. I got them dynamic re-balanced at the dealer - the new weights are clocked about 90 deg from where they were before.
I don't want to get off topic here in the TPMS thread, but those road force machines seem to do the majority of the thinking for the technician. The tech is told exactly where to put weights with the Hunter balance machine.

Also I guess the 3:40 mark keeps this on topic, some machines will inform the technician what type of TPMS sensors are currently mounted ( OEM default I'm assuming).
http://youtu.be/efhgM2TcQpI

By no means am I saying anyone can run one of these machines, but if you're going to a garage that uses this balancer the risk of error should be less than a normal tire balancer.
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:09 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
It's easier to just modify the wire to the indicator light:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-disabled.html
yeah, just bypass the tpms, cost practically nothing except a scotchlock and then you can remove and wrap in electrical tape when/if you resell the vehicle and the next buyer won't know the difference.

imho
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Old 10-26-2013, 10:50 AM   #113
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The TPMS system in my wife's car just did it's job recently. The temperature here in Wisconsin went from the 70's to the 30's and 40's in almost no time at all. As a result, every tire on my wife's vehicle literally lost a lot of tire pressure over night. I've been way too busy recently to think about constantly checking the air pressure on my wife's vehicle's tires, so it was nice that the system warned me that her tires were low (which prompted me to check the tires on my truck as well.)

On a different note, I just had Schrader EZ-Sensors installed in a set of winter wheels for my Tacoma at Discount Tire and had the sensors 'cloned' to my summer wheel sensors. Even though Discount Tire has the ability to do the sensor cloning, I feel like I'm always teaching them how to do their jobs when I go there... I wonder if I'm the only one who has ever asked them to clone sensors???

My Tacoma's aftermarket summer wheels already have Schrader EZ-Sensor sensors in them. When I went to get the new sensors for my winter wheels cloned to the summer wheels, the technician at Discount Tire didn't think you could "clone a clone", which to me makes me think he doesn't really understand how TPMS sensors work. After a couple of minutes of trying, he told me his tool wouldn't clone my already cloned sensors. As he was sitting next to me telling me this and showing me that it won't work, the tool successfully cloned the sensor he had in his hand. The problem wasn't that you can't "clone a clone", the problem was that one of the four sensors he had was bad and he happened to be using the bad one.

FYI... TPMS sensors are just radio frequency devices that emit a signal that includes the sensor ID. As long as the sensor programming tool can read the sensor ID being emitted by the sensor, then the tool could care less if the source or destination sensors are OEM or aftermarket, as long as the destination sensor is programmable.

As the original poster of this thread, my goal was to be able to swap-out my summer and winter tires and still having a working TPMS system w/o going to the dealer to reset the sensor codes in the ECU... and then share my experience with *you* so you don't have to go through the pain-in-the-butt that I did to get this to work. Thanks to Discount Tire, I've now 'succeeded' in accomplishing this mission.

However, accomplishing this seemingly simple task was not so simple. There is a lot of cost and effort on the consumer's part to simply make it possible to swap-out summer and winter wheels. I had to do a ton of research on TPMS, had to drive an hour to Discount Tire several times because no closer dealers know how to clone sensors that I'm aware of, and the sensors add ~$200-$300 to the cost of each wheel set (a cost that will keep repeating every 7 to 10 years, depending on the battery life of the sensors).

It's my opinion that wheel and tire shops should stop selling non-programmable sensors and just use only programmable sensors. I don't think the shop should even tell the customer that they're going to clone the sensors... just do it and the customer will be none-the-wiser and the system will just work. I still think there's some kind of conspiracy going on where dealers don't want to clone sensors because they want the customer to have to come back as much as possible, giving the dealer an opportunity to sell more stuff.
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:49 PM   #114
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Mine did it's job as well.
We have a good tool, why not use it?
Mine did not work for the first 6 months (maybe year?) I had my truck. Considered disabling it, bought the Techstream cable and software, etc... Finally figured "Why not do it right?"

15 minutes at Discount Tire and my system was working properly.
So 2 days later on the way home from work, I see the light again. Thinking it's just screwed up again, I pulled over to a parking lot, shut everything down, and restarted. Flashing for a minute? Nope... came on solid with no flashing.

Checked my pressure, and one tire was down 10psi. Not enough to notice on the sidewall, but enough to trigger the TPMS.
I slowly rolled the truck forward looking for the culprit and finally found a nail.
I whetted the tread and confirmed. Marked the sidewall with a pen and went to Pep Boys to get it plugged.

The Pep Boys guy couldn't find the leak... told me the tire was just low. I had to point it out to him.

Had it not been for the TPMS, I probably would have come out at 5am the next morning to a flat.
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:04 PM   #115
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I have a guy who wants to swap wheels with me he has a 2012 and mine is 2010, can we just swap and the computer will recognize the new tpms sensors from his rims?
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:02 PM   #116
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Quote:
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I have a guy who wants to swap wheels with me he has a 2012 and mine is 2010, can we just swap and the computer will recognize the new tpms sensors from his rims?
You'll have to have the ECU's reprogrammed to recognize the sensors.
Each sensor has an electronic serial number, that way your truck doesn't trigger a fault when parked next to another vehicle.
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:28 AM   #117
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Can anyone confirm this:
Understand that checking your tires and inflating them to the correct pressure when cold will not "fix" your tire pressure light. The following is the proper procedure as per section 1-7, page 204 in everyones owners manual;

* first verify no tires are low on pressure and if so adjust to proper psi when tires are cold if possible INCLUDING your spare

*once tires are properly inflated turn your car on, engine idling and find your tire pressure switch (should be near your knees if your sitting in the drivers seat)

*with the car running press and hold the tire pressure switch till the light goes off, you still have not re-initialized the system yet. Let go of the button once the light is off

* this is the most CRITICAL part of the whole re-initialization; with the car still running press and HOLD the tire pressure button till the light flashes 3 times and then let go of the button.


This is the proper way to re-intialize the tpms when a flat has been repaired, pressure adjusted, or tires rotated.

Remember that unless the tire light is flashing there is no problem with the system or the sensors.

The TPMS system will trigger the light when the pressure in any two tires differs by more than 10psi, or when the pressure goes below the set point.

My recommendation is to set the tires to about 5psi below where you intend to run and reset the system there, then increase to your desired pressure.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:19 PM   #118
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I've had both a nail in the tire, and a spare that went low, and simply reinflating the tires turned the light off.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:59 AM   #119
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I'm thinking of ordering some winter tires from tire rack. How do I get the sensor ods from my stock tires so I can have them preprogram some cloned sensors? Do I need to have the tires off and sensors out or is it possible to just read the from somewhere in the truck?
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
I've had both a nail in the tire, and a spare that went low, and simply reinflating the tires turned the light off.
^^ This. I had one flat tire extremely low and another time 2 tires were low. Both instances were in "extreme cold" (for this area). I inflated the extremely low tire and the light went out. The 2 that were low I didn't inflate and when the temperature came back up with the sun the light went out.
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