yet another compelling "which tire to get" question.

Interesting. I wouldnt think there would be that much difference.

 

I have about 1,000 miles on them (60% off road, 40% on road)

I got them around the beginning of winter so I haven't had them in a good rain yet. On wet pavement they do just fine though.

They make a slight rumble below 35 MPH. Above that the noise goes away... nearly completely.

They are great in the snow. The 60% off road I've done (so about 600 miles) has been in slushy snow, deep powder, frozen ground, and ice/water (broke through 2 inches of ice down into about 18 inches of water). Very little mud since the ground has been frozen for the most part. The tires have been great. I actually haven't locked the rear diff yet this season, but then again I'm still testing the limits of the tires.

Of the 40% of my driving on pavement with them, most of that has been snow packed roads. They do great there too.

I will say that my only gripe is that on dry pavement at low speeds it seems as if I can feel the tire knobs. The worn out E rated tires that I had before these road smooth at all speeds. These just aren't as smooth. At high speed it is far less noticeable, but at low speeds I can feel it. But then again, I do have Energy bushings which could be the reason I feel more of the road.

 

Oh, and the MT/Rs are heavy. They are much heavier than the tires that they replaced. I went with the same size (265/75-16) but I could immediately feel the acceleration difference.

You may want to PM Box Rocket. He has run both KM2s and MT/Rs. With him being in Utah he might have the diverse conditions covered to tell you the pros/cons between the two.

 

OP from what I understand, the 6 ply (C) and the 10 ply (E) have the same sidewalls. The 6 or 8 or 10 is referring to the layers (ply) on the tread part of the tire - not the sidewalls. BFG's have the 3 ply sidewall that they are quite proud of.

 

ligther is better on gas if you are a pavement pounder only, heavier means more rubber which should translate durability, if you are planning on wheeling in rocks, skip the duratracs.

 

thanks, that is what I am afraid of!

right when I am convinced they are the tire for me I will come across another review or get a tid-bit of information like this that sways me away.

i dont do a lot of wheeling in the rocks, but when I do its usually when I have 500+lbs of firewood or pulling 2000+lbs of a trailer over them but roads are nothing to crazy. just very rough.

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/380698949836

Just get these, looks like a nice m/t tire.

 

n i i i c e.

Just bought 5.

 

x100000000000

 

You could look regular cooper s/t's, dick cepek fc2, procomp extreme.a/t, mickey thompson atz, and mastercraft ct. They are all aggresive a/t tires that are supposed to get decent mileage out of.

 

I think duratecs would be fine. If your able to pull a trailer through where you are going you shouldn't be to worried about side wall punctures.Your trailer tires are going to be less heavy duty then the trucks.

 

Good point. I never thought of it that way. Assuming u mean, if it never punctured my trailer tires (loaded down) then it won't puncture my truck tires.

Thanks!

 

I hate trailer tires. I run LT tires on my trailers.