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Balancing Advice please

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by Newlife, Feb 8, 2014.

  1. Mar 14, 2014 at 4:02 PM
    #61
    2TRunner

    2TRunner Snoop Dad

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    Sticky weights suck. It is more irritating trying to balance even OE wheels with them.

    Buy a can black spray paint and coat them over real quick.
     
  2. Mar 14, 2014 at 4:27 PM
    #62
    nfs257

    nfs257 Well-Known Member

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    I got mine balanced Wednesday with sticky weights and yesterday they were already coming off.
     
  3. Mar 14, 2014 at 5:52 PM
    #63
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah well get this shit. The guy at the shop thought it would be just fine to put sticky weights on the outside of the rim in the little lug hole around the rim. NFS will know what I'm talking about and no it didn't fix anything but make my wheels look like absolute shit. And his night and day. He didn't take it over 45. It doesn't vibrate or shake over 45 it does It at 50- 55 - 60
     
  4. Mar 14, 2014 at 6:09 PM
    #64
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Man, that is EXACTLY why when I train employees I tell them PREP THE RIMS AND GET IT CLEAN before you install. I have never had a customer return to me with a sticky weight that came off. That is just plain and simple poor prep. That 3M adhesive is some sticky ass stuff!

    Damn. Hell man, at this rate you would spend less time and money driving to my shop in Alabama! Hahaha. Sorry, not trying to make fun of your issue, but DAMN I can't believe the incompetence of some tire shops. It's not rocket science!
     
  5. Mar 14, 2014 at 7:08 PM
    #65
    nfs257

    nfs257 Well-Known Member

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    My rims are full of dirt... lol They wire wheeled the piss out of them.
     
  6. Mar 15, 2014 at 1:28 AM
    #66
    Hans Moleman

    Hans Moleman Well-Known Member

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    Yes the wheels are hub centric and there is a TSB about using the Haweka adapter. Being hub or lug centric has nothing to do with the Haweka adapter plate. There is still a back cone to center the wheel on the hub so this tells you the wheels are hub centric. The purpose of the Haweka adapter to put even pressure on the stud to force the wheel to mount perfectly on the balancer. Our trucks are so sensitive to tire balance so this is the way to ensure perfect balance. Sure there are people who lucked out on getting a good balance without the Haweka adapter but I never was able to until it was used.

    So the OP will keep fighting this until he finds a competent shop that uses the adapter properly. The shop I go to uses it on all Toyota trucks and never had one come back with any vibration complaints. Even my Lexus GX 470 had vibration problems after having new tires installed at America's tire and repeated re-balacing. I tried to explain to them about the Haweka adapter plate but they were clueless. I went back to the local shop that originally balanced my Tacoma tires with the Haweka adapter and they balanced my GX 470 the same way. No more vibration, smooth as glass.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
  7. Mar 15, 2014 at 6:29 AM
    #67
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I have an appointment at the toyota dealer today to gget the tires and wheels balanced once again.

    Just got off the phone with the service dept at toyota they also want to do an alignment to see how off my caster is and see they can correct that.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
  8. Mar 15, 2014 at 10:09 AM
    #68
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok at toyota they are road force balancing and alignment check before doing actual alignment. Hoping for the best. It has to end here. Even Stacey is saying enough is enough.
     
  9. Mar 15, 2014 at 3:29 PM
    #69
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Road force didn't do anything alignment nothing. Luckily the guys at toyota were nice enough not to charge me and are scratching their heads too because they can't figure it out either. Only other thing I know to do at this point is buy stock spindles and send these back to maxtrac. And maybe they will give me a little bit of a refund if not I guess junk them. There is nothing else I can think to check. I am tempted to take the sway bar off and see what happens but I feel like I am chasing my tail on this one.
     
  10. Mar 16, 2014 at 11:26 AM
    #70
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Damn Adam. Worst of luck there. I hope you get it figured out. If they cant get it right with Roadforce and tire matching, then I can't think of anything else that hasn't been mentioned.
     
  11. Mar 16, 2014 at 7:19 PM
    #71
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok here is what has been done so people checking can know

    Tires balanced about 7 times on this set including 4 roadforce balancing.
    Inner and outer tie rods checked multiple times all come back normal
    Upper and Lower ball joints show no signs of play
    LCA and UCA bolts all made sure in torque spec at 100 ft lbs
    Wheel bearing show no sign of play up and down or side to side
    Rear end lifted off ground and ran up to 70mph with no vibrations or wobble.
    1" drive shaft spacer and 3mm carrier bearing drop.
    Also attempted 3/8 and 1/4" carrier bearing drop and combination of both.
    Steering rack shows no sign of movement minus a small less than 5mm movement when turning steering wheel really fast. While front in the air/
    Noticed small thump sound in steering rack when turning to the right but cannot pinpoint where it is was told normal.
    Replaced rotors and brake pads and no change.
    Checked wheels for hub centric rings none needed. Wheels are 106.25
    Tires have been replaced 4 times with different brands and types each time

    5 shops including Toyota have not been able to pinpoint anything else wrong in the truck to cause this issue.

    Current setup

    Maxtrac 6" lift kit.

    Am being told spindles are the root of the problem.

    Background on spindles.

    Recieved on Jan 22, 2014. Install was well minus forgot to disconnect sway bay and from both ends before starting install. Did one side at a time because I didn't trust the jackstands. (previous bad experience on mustang) Plus not enough room to work around in the garage at on both sides.

    Noticed when tightening down the hub to the spindles that when full tightened down hub and wheel bearing were hitting the back of both spindles. Drivers side a lot worse. Called maxtrac they adv me to sand the inside of the spindles so I did. Took about 2-3 mm off the inside. And wheel bearings spun freely no noise. Finished install put wheels and tires on and took it get alignment.

    Alignment was fine and drove off happy. Noticed a slight pull to the left a few days later so I took it back. Whatever they did this time I couldn't drive. I had it towed to another firestone and had them redo the alignment. It was better but still pulled. Drove it for a few days and noticed a rubbing, grinding sound what appeared to be pass front As well as a slight vibration at slow speeds and making a turn.

    I took it to the shop that put the tires on the wheels. They inform me I threw a weight and it had lodged in the caliper. They said normally they clear and It was just a freak incident. Re balanced and everything was fine. I took Stacey to Kia to pick up her new car and on the way home all hell broke loose. Her behind me me doing 50-55 mph the steering wheel shook so bad like the lug nuts where coming out. I pulled over rocked the truck side to side no play no issue. Drove it some more same thing. Drove it up to 40mph and it was fine. But couldn't go any faster. Took the wheels in to discount after the previous shop couldn't find any more issues and the wheels continued to shake not as violently but still shaking the steering wheel as well as vibration in the floor. They determined the Front left wheel was out of round and needed replaced. They switched the wheels out to Duratracs and the vibration continued. took it back for several balanced and nothing seemed to help.

    Then they switched to bfg ta ko. Same thing and said there is nothing else they can do. so here I am. Throwing tons of money out the windows and nothing else to check.
     
  12. Mar 16, 2014 at 9:08 PM
    #72
    RayTran

    RayTran New Member

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    ome springs,billstien shocks. 17 x 8.5 fuels w/ 285 nittos, 4.56 running gears custom grill and armor, kenwood nav w/ Rockford Fosgate speakers, sub amp
    Have read alot from site last yr or so. I have found much useful info so I registered just to return the favor. I am in no way affiliated with "Dyna Beads" but just wanted to share this with you. Designed for big rig tires that run long milage , these ceramic beads are dumped into the tire when mounted. No outside weights and the tire ALWAYS remains in balace. I have been running them for 20 k on 285s...never a shimy. Choose the amount of beads per each tire pending on tire size. Check em out...you will thank me later.
     
  13. Mar 16, 2014 at 9:16 PM
    #73
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Understand dynabeads and have thought of them but I have tpms sensors and have been told more than once no dynabeads.
     
  14. Mar 16, 2014 at 9:18 PM
    #74
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Which brings me to my next question. Could air pressure cause an issue like this? I am running 35 psi in all. Have ran 30 and 32. the shake is almost the same as when I was aired down at LBL.

    Tire info. BFG ta ko 285/75/16 load range E


    Wheel info. American Outlaw buckshot 16x8
     
  15. Mar 16, 2014 at 9:23 PM
    #75
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Video sucks but this is a good day of the shaking.

    http://youtu.be/8lz9OkRKU80

    The bad days it is more pronounced and have to 10 and 2 it.

    That chirp noise you hear in the beginning is the stereo being loose from our recent trip to LBL. Haven't tightened those bolts yet since I have been fighting this issue.
     
  16. Mar 16, 2014 at 9:26 PM
    #76
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have one from toyota this past weekend and it is the most frustrating thing to read. At least the firestone ones were easy.
     
  17. Mar 17, 2014 at 9:42 AM
    #77
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    could be the spacers or spindles?

    when you ran it with the rear off the ground was it just on jack stands?

    any dyno place where you are that have linked rollers (to make front and rear rotate together)?

    may be worth looking at that or if you have a GoPro to record what's going on at around 50mph
     
  18. Mar 17, 2014 at 9:53 AM
    #78
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes rear up on jack stands. No clue on that kind of dyno. Only one I know is a mustang jet that I used to take my mustang to.

    Will find out if spindles this weekend. Maxtrac is sending me new spindles
     
  19. Mar 18, 2014 at 9:10 AM
    #79
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    OK. Professional opinion here, after reading your recent explanation. You might not like it....lol

    Get rid of the spindles and return to stock.
    Replace steering rack bushings with poly ones. (5mm just by shifting the steering wheel back and forth is too much in my opinion)
     
  20. Mar 18, 2014 at 9:49 AM
    #80
    Newlife

    Newlife [OP] Well-Known Member

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    New spindles are in route. They are still maxtrac. With all of the other people running maxtrac spindles and no issue I am leaning more towards a bad spindle. Also picked up new uca's with new bushings and ball joints. Going to have the lower ball joints replaced and order some of your wheel bearings (if warranty won't cover mine. Was told they would even with the spindles.) Also found out rack is covered under warranty so will have that replaced under warranty as well.

    As far going to stock spindles it is not an option since I can't seem to find any and sold mine to a member that is most likely trading in
     

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