Will they fit without spacers?

I know... And I changed nothing. It's so weird. When they told me that I didn't believe them and they walked me into the shop to show me.
The only thing I can think of is that; my 275's were bought with 50% tread left and they are a smaller diameter tire. They were close to the UCA then. I think the setting on my LR UCA may be wrong and was just lucky with the shorter worn out 275's. Now with the more meat and taller tire it puts it up in the range closest to the UCA...

 

Makes no sense

Any chance they loosened the UCA top bolt and the ball joint slid in toward the UCA ?

 

If you have LR UCA's, you have the ability to do some cool stuff with you alignment to get more clearance. You can set the UCA so that it pushes the upper bj forward more than stock then use the adjusters down at the LCA to get your caster back in line which will push the lower bj forward creating more clearance at the back of the tire. It's fussy but it might work for you. It also may be a ton of hassle that doesn't pay off at all. Something seems goofy though, if you can fit even a worn 275 but not a 255.

 

Where are you in Mississippi? I'm in Bay St Louis.

I might be interested in trading you my tires (265/75/16 BFG AT).

Lift doesn't do shit when flexing, I could run 35'' MTR's on my truck and only do the same cutting as Monte (2.5'' of lift) even though I only have 1.5'' of lift.

 

Here are pics.. Now imagine without that 1.25" spacer.

 

That's what I thought but negative, clear in the pis it wasn't moved ^^

 

I think your ball joints might be in a funky position. They seem like they sit way too far inward toward the coil. Do a google image search for LR UCA on 2nd gen tacoma and take a look.

Was typing this as you replied. They don't look to have been moved but they still look a little odd.

 

Are we gonna have this discussion again? Geeze.

OK - here's how it is.

Ideally, the front wheelwell is big enough to fit the tire/rim mounted so that it can turn through full left/right rotation while at full bump - that is, while resting on the bumpstops. That is a tire and rim combination that fits. Factory tires/wheels will do this.

That said, folks like to run oversized tires and wheels. To increase wheelwell clearance at full bump - they do things like remove mudflaps, clearance trim plastic wheel well liners, chop the cab mount chop, hammer the pinch weld, tweak the alignment settings, run fiberglass fenders, tub the firewall, etc...

However, once you're running stiffer and longer than factory springs (or running a top-plate spacer, for the unwashed heathens) and thus "lifting" the vehicle, the actual chance that you'll experience "full bump" while also having the wheel turned at anywhere near full lock is pretty small and occurs only in some fairly extreme rock-crawling type situations. (Actually, with a top plate spacer, it's impossible to achieve full bump. But I digress.)

Thus, as a practical matter, a tire/rim combo that isn't fully clearanced because there isn't room for it to turn lock-to-lock at full bump can still be run on the street and for most offroading purposes because it'll rub rarely enough that the owner can live with it or doesn't even notice and asserts loudly that it "never rubs!"

Once you "remove the lift" and run that tire/wheel combo on factory springs at factory height, however, the springs are soft and short enough that it's fairly easy to experience near full lock while also at near full bump in more or less every day driving conditions. Now, a tire/wheel combo that never truly "fit" went from rubbing an acceptable amount of the time while "lifted" to an unacceptable amount of time at stock ride height.

"In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is a difference between theory and practice."

 

That's what I said!

 

True. But using that definition of "fit" I and many other members of TW run tires that "don't fit" with quite satisfactory results.

 

I've been around a few trucks where the owners definition of 'fits' is extremely unsatisfactory to me. The best we can do is try it out ourselves and develop our own idea of 'fits'. It's a scary and misleading term.

Alright, this has been fun but I have to get back to work. Gots to make those dolla's!

 

Agreed. I've clearanced like crazy and I can still show you my rub marks.

And I know there are folks out there running bigger tires, on larger negative offset, with less trimming done than me.

 

all I said was if he was not rubbing the UCA with 275's it makes no sense that he would be rubbing the UCA with 255's with no change in the suspension geometry

 

Yes, that seems impossible.

 

95 Taco
Im between McComb and Brookhaven just off I-55.

 

I think Im gonna see about taking the spacers out and try it. Cant be much to removing them. Any suggestions?

 

To avoid any confusion , I was referring to Teneighty's rub issue

 

Also I will add that when I say rub... They touched by a c-hair. My 275's were very tight but obviously had room, 1/4" or so

 

You'll need to get an alignment afterwards.

If it's a top plate spacer, (probably the most common type) you can DIY remove it relatively easily.

If it's a coilover spacer, you'll need someone with a bench mount spring compressor to disassemble the coilover assembly once you remove it and take the spacer out and reassemble it. Shop usually charge 30/40 bucks for that.

You'll need to get the truck aligned afterwards - the alignment will be pretty far whacked.