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DIY: Quickie Front Rotor Change

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Old 12-18-2009, 06:07 PM   #1
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DIY: Quickie Front Rotor Change

Ok. So here we go. I decided to replace the front rotors on my 2006 DC Tacoma TRD. I chose the Power Slot drilled and slotted ones to change too. Since I am not typically mechanically inclined (til I found this website) I am also using my Haynes Manual for direction. I apologize in advance for the pics. I used my cell phone to take them.

Step 1: Park your truck on a flat surface and set the emergency brake. Chock the rear wheel to ensure it doesn't go anywhere on you.

Step 2: Remove one front wheel. I did mine one wheel at a time but you can remove both if you want.

Step 3: Remove the brake caliper. This is pretty easy to do. There are two bolts in the back, one right above the other. Mine were pretty tight so I sprayed them with some liquid wrench to loosen them up. The top bolt is shown in the picture. Instead of removing the metal line coming from the caliper (I advise you to remove it) I just rested the caliper onto a wood block.


Step 4: Once the caliper is off, try wiggling the rotor off the hub. If it won't budge you can use a bolt to thread it off. You will see a hole in the rotor to the inside. Just thread a bolt into and it will push the rotor off the hub. You may also use a rubber mallet to tap it off instead, if you choose. Once the rotor is removed the hub will look like this.


Step 5: Use a wire brush to clean off any rust or corrosion off the wheel hub rim. I then added thin line of anti-seize compound to prevent further rusting and to prevent them getting stuck on again. Then slide the rotor onto the hub, ensure to put the rotor on correctly and seated properly. (I used the lugs just to show how it sets).


Step 6: Re-attach the caliper in the reverse order it was removed. It is not necessary to squeeze the pads back to fit them back on the caliper. Just sit it on the rotor and tap lightly with a rubber mallet. It should slide on easily. Replace the two bolts in the back, it is easier to start the top one first and then place the bottom one in.

Step 7: Replace your tire and lower the vehicle. Depress the brake pedals a few times to bring the pads into contact with the rotors. Bleeding the brakes should NOT be necessary. Drive a short distance in safe area stopping frequently to check for proper function.



If anyone has additional tips, feel free to add on.

Torque Specs: Caliper Mounting Bolts- 91 ft. lbs.
Wheel Lugs- 85 ft. lbs.
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badguybuster View Post
Step 3: Remove the brake caliper. This is pretty easy to do. There are two bolts in the back, one right above the other. Mine were pretty tight so I sprayed them with some liquid wrench to loosen them up. The top bolt is shown in the picture. Instead of removing the metal line coming from the caliper (I advise you to remove it) I just rested the caliper onto a wood block.
What do you mean i advise your to remove it? Are you referring to the brake line? I cant think of any other line.

if that's the case I would not remove it. Just make sure that you dont put any stress on the line by letting it hang. If you do remove the line you will have to bleed that caliper.
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:04 PM   #5
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Thanks for the write up! I've got 3 mm of brake bad left it was the dealer said... So I am going to just upgrade the rotors and get new pads... Where did you get the rotors and pads. And have you had any squealing brakes or annoying sounds?
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Old 12-19-2009, 11:05 AM   #7
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91 lbs/ft on the caliper bolt?

My explorer only needed 50 or so, is that right?
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Old 12-19-2009, 11:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badguybuster View Post
Yep. That is what I was referring to. I put that in there so I don't get blamed if someone drops their caliper and damages the line. CYA!!


FWIW, I use a piece of bailing wire or a coat hanger to hang the calipers when working on disk brakes. Just tie it off to the spring, and it works like a charm.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:59 PM   #12
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Thanks for write up... having rotors turned and using your install method for brake pads too.
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:13 PM   #13
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nice write up. do you by any chance know what the stock size brake rotor was? is it 1.25"?
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:20 PM   #14
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Do the caliper bracket bolts need loctite?
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:05 AM   #15
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there's really no need for loctite. just make sure you torque them to spec and you will be fine.
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copernicus View Post
91 lbs/ft on the caliper bolt?

My explorer only needed 50 or so, is that right?
Yes, 91 ft/lbs is correct.

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Old 08-17-2010, 03:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badguybuster View Post
Step 4: Once the caliper is off, try wiggling the rotor off the hub. If it won't budge you can use a bolt to thread it off. You will see a hole in the rotor to the inside. Just thread a bolt into and it will push the rotor off the hub. You may also use a rubber mallet to tap it off instead, if you choose.
what size bolt will thread into the rotor to pull it off of the hub?
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:25 PM   #18
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There are two bolts that hold the air intake assembly base and one of these worked for me. Just remove it... use it... replace...

That is if you have the 4.0L engine... cuz thats what i got.

edit i see you have the 2.7. I'm not sure if its the same bolts that hold your intake to the wall of the engine bay.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:21 AM   #19
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It's an 8mm bolt on mine... there are 2 holes on the rotor and I needed to use both of them to get the rotor off!
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