Help, rear alloy rim is "stuck" to drum

Ok so I attempted to start my installation of my AAL, only to find that my rim is stuck to the drum. Anyone have any suggestion how to fix this? I was told by the dealer to just keep hitting it with a hammer til it pops off. I tried this with no luck, plus I was afraid of ruining something. I'm just curious if there was any other way of removing a "siezed" rim?

 

I had the same problem when I took the back wheels off to install wheel spacers. They weren't budging! lol Almost knocked the truck off the jack stands. lol

I sprayed a little liquid wrench between the rim and drum (careful not to get it in the drum) and then did what Chris4x4 suggested and it freed it right up.

 

i would sit on my but and kick with both feet at one side of the wheel , if doesnt break loose, then put lug nuts on loosly let it down ad push vehicle back and forth sideways till it breaks loose. when you get it off, wire brush both wheel inside and drum face in the area iit mates up then smear some lithium grease on that surface befor reinstallin wheel for next time you remove wheels. was a comon problem with my old f150 till i started doin this

 

All good advice above, I've had to use them all of them. Once you get it off, do what OLEFART says. Makes it much easier next time around. Funny how the Alloys stick worse than the Steelies.

 

As part of preventative maintenance for next time.....Put some Anti-Seize on the studs and on the surface of the drum (where the wheel comes in contact with it) and don't over-torque the lug nuts. I torque all my vehicle wheels to 100ft lbs.

 

yea anti seize will definatly last a lot longer than the lithium

 

x2 on the rubber mallet.

 

Coming from my oval track car mechanic days I can testify don't put anti-seize on the lugs. We had this brilliant idea we could get the lugnuts off faster in an unscheduled pitstop, so we put moly lube on the lugs. A wheel came off half way through the race.

I just painted my rims, and the rears were stuck. I wiggled the truck to make sure it wasn't gonna fall off the jackstands, then I kicked the hell out of the tire with my heel. It broke loose.

 

I have used wheel bearing grease on lugnuts for years and never had any issues.

 

Slowly and just in driveway, only loosen a little.

Clean up wheel and hug with wire brush when you get them off and put on some anti seize.

Hitting the wheel with anything solid is risky.

Mike M

 

http://brakeandfrontend.blogspot.com/2007/05/no-anti-seize-on-lug-nuts.html

 

My friend owns a tire shop..... happens all the time they just give the tire a boot.... if that does not work then the give it a wack with a sledge(on the tire not the wheel.)

 

I don't understand how anti-seize can be harmful - I've been using it for years without any problems.

 

Nothing listed here worked, I swear I could drive the thing with no lug nuts. What finally worked was jacking it just off the ground and laying an 8 foot 2x4 flat under the truck against the bottom of the inside of the tire, then wacking it with a sledge from the oposite side of the truck. A big sledge!

 

I had a stuck rear wheel on my 2008 Taco 4x4. I do some heavy off road a few times a year and the wheel had been on for only 2 years. I was rotating my tires. I banged on it with several mallets, used a crowbar to pry between the drum and inner side of the wheel and then pried on it with a 6 foot 1" bar between the spring and tire. Nothing! It would not budge. I re-installed the lugs then backed off 1 turn, lowered the jack and drove about 10' back and forth 3 times. NOPE!

Finally, I left the lugs loose, took my Taco down the street and drove over 2 speed bumps at 40 MPH and vuala!! The wheel was loose but I still had to pry a bit. Corrosion I think.

 

"Funny how the Alloys stick worse than the Steelies"

The culprit is the increased corrosion of disimilar metals making contact.

As far as use of Antisieze . Why do you think it is called "antisieze" !

It is made for exactly for that, Main use is where steel and plated spark plugs used in Aluminum heads. Porsche used aluminum Lug nuts for many years until they changed over to Lug bolts. You needed to use antisieze on the threads, not ball socket, etc. If use of lubricant on the ball or cone portion of Lug Nut it will give incorrect torque readings and won't allow it to cinch tight when tightend.

It the case of Aluminum wheels, I would recommend using it where the mating srfaces of the wheels contacts the drum or rotor. "Sparingly" or it will creep out over time.

As far a Moly Lube on wheels studs, Just think about that for a second. Not a good idea, as you found out the hard way. If anything, once in a while a little oil on the threads.

 

Yes, I've also used antisieze on the drum face and on the lug nuts for years with no problems.


Slight hijack:
Manufacturer's do not spec torque based on dirty or corroded threads. The only way to get propwer bolt torque is with lubricated threads. The blog quoted above is pure bullshit - lubricating threads will not increase the torque and tesult in increased stress in the bolts. As a mechanical engineer with industry experience in bolt torque calculations for both nuclear pressure boundary piping bolt torque calculations and for non-pressure boundary mechanical applications, I can testify that lubricating the threads is the right thing to do. Not lubricating the threads results in corrosion and in attempting to apply torque to a corroded or dirty thread, you loose some of the applied force to the wheel by the necessary requirement to overcome the friction caused by the corrosion or dirt. ASME bolt torque calculations are based on clean, lubricated threads.

 

I got mine off kicking the tires.