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In cab Winch control wiring

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 95 taco, Jul 1, 2015.

  1. Jul 1, 2015 at 8:47 PM
    #1
    95 taco

    95 taco [OP] Battle Born

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    OME 883 front, OMD 3.5" rear, Relentless front bumper, smittybilt 9.5K winch
    Edit: new question, On my dads boat we have 12.8 volts at the battery, but only 8.6 volts at the switches in the dash, I'm going to check the voltage at the fuse block (In the dash) tomorrow and see what it says but if the fuse block is only getting 8.6 volts then my next step would be to replace the wiring from the battery to the block correct?

    I know lighting isn't the correct sub-forum but lighting is more electrical than armor so here I am.
    I'm installing a smittybilt 9.5K winch in my front bumper and I want in cab controls.
    I have one switch running winch power (On/off), and one controlling direction (In/off/out).

    The in/out will be tapped from the remote wiring, the winch power should be on the main power to the winch correct? (on a relay)
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2015
  2. Jul 2, 2015 at 12:05 AM
    #2
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    You will need to run a fused power wire to the on/off switch. then take the output wire from the on/off switch and run that to the input on the in/off/out switch. You will take the two outputs and run them to their perspective wires on the winch relay. You should pick up a momentary 3way switch for that function. That will provide a little safety factor.
     
  3. Jul 3, 2015 at 7:02 PM
    #3
    95 taco

    95 taco [OP] Battle Born

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    Ok

    I talked to another member who wired a winch to the switches before and what he did was use the winch power switch to cut power to the in/out switch.
    It'll end up being less hassle and cheaper than adding a relay and all that.
     
  4. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:36 PM
    #4
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    No additional relays are needed. if you run the 2 wires needed to the winch relay box for the in/out switch. you would still need to supply the power to in/out switch via an on/off switch. this provide the power to trigger the winch relays accordingly. this setup only requires 2 wires to pass-thru the firewall.
     
  5. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:37 PM
    #5
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    on a side note, you should start a new thread for the boat question.... there's a good chance that part has not been seen. i even missed it.
     
  6. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:39 PM
    #6
    davidpick

    davidpick NWXPDTN

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  7. Jul 9, 2015 at 1:41 PM
    #7
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    You will want to start at the battery and work your way up the positive side. check every connection point for the correct voltage. the wire could have gone bad by corroding. the fuse box could be bad also. that's a pretty big drop in voltage.
     
  8. Jul 9, 2015 at 2:06 PM
    #8
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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  9. Jul 9, 2015 at 3:05 PM
    #9
    95 taco

    95 taco [OP] Battle Born

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    2003 4x4 TRD SR5 auto
    OME 883 front, OMD 3.5" rear, Relentless front bumper, smittybilt 9.5K winch
    Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

    Yeah, I should've done that, i finally had a chance to mess with it yesterday and on a whim switched to the other battery position and I have full power at the box, so either the wire from the battery to the selector is bad or the terminal in the selector is loose, or possibly the switch is bad, but I don't think that's very likely.
     
  10. Jul 22, 2015 at 8:03 PM
    #10
    95 taco

    95 taco [OP] Battle Born

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2003 4x4 TRD SR5 auto
    OME 883 front, OMD 3.5" rear, Relentless front bumper, smittybilt 9.5K winch
    Just wanted to update on the boat electrical.
    Turned out to be a combination of a corroded ground wire, and corroded ground block, and corroded + wire from the battery selector to + block.
     

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