Let's see your frugal DIY mods!

So that is all included in what you bought? NO. WAIT. I don't need any more tie downs.

 

Yes. The complete assembly is the I bolt, top and bottom plate, the thick rubber piece, and a thin rubber seal that I didn't need or use. They come in a bigger size too which had gave me the idea but knew it was too big then I saw this smaller one.

It did take me a while to trim the steel plates down. Went through two dremmel cutting discs. If i had a vice would've been easier. Held them with a c clamp so was kind of a pain. I only did 2 for now, would like to do at least 2 more but kinda want to do 6 all together so I can have 2 on each side and 2 at the cab but we'll see. I also want to do the d rings at the cab so may be over kill.

 

What he said \/ \/ \/

 

Also I used a hammer to tap them to the angle that I wanted them to be at before smashing them down the last bit.

 

Perhaps consider some rectangle aluminum stock behind the faring spanning between the two points. If you have a metal supermarkets near you, they could help get the right material. I'd consider 6061 T6 as it is cheap and strong.

 

Yeah, I have a good source for metal. I've bought a lot so far. My thought is some angle aluminum bolted to the existing bolts on the front of the main rack. That will leave a place to bolt the end of the center support. From there a strip of 1" at the top of the fairing tied into the supports. Then a square piece at the bottom of the supports tying them all together. Hoping that will work, I know it will take a lot of force from the wind.



Side note: Anyone know a good way of shaping lexan?

 

When I cut and bent my aux fuse tray thing out of lexan I used a harbor freight heat gun

 

Ended up grabbing one of these at lowes last night, Perfect lil flood light for all sorts of things! well worth the 25 bucks out the door!

 

Meh. The mats dont move on them. If they did, they wouldnt be there.

 

It is a great little light huh!

In the event I need to use the outlet in the bed, I'm also considering wiring up a plug & quick connector to the 12V wires running to the factory LEER LED light (very low light output) that's inside, right under the break light.

 

I wanted a plain old AC light to plug into the 110v outlet but the inexpensive ones from Lowes weren't indoor/outdoor rated. Ended picking this one up from Home Depot. Fairly crappy light which is to be expected for the price but it will work for now.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-ft-800-Lumen-Portable-LED-Work-Light-K40010/204330841/

 

I looked at that one as well, but per my previous write-up, there was no way to mount this light the way I wanted.

 

I solved my mounting problem by setting it up this way. Still need to get a through tapped knob for the bottom so I won't need to mess with a wrench. The plastic caps on the feet pop off and the tube is a handy place to store washers and the machine screws. If I want to put the feet back on so it can sit on the bed or elsewhere it will just take a few seconds.

 

Roof rack is nearing completion. Just need to adjust the fairing and supports a bit. Still not sure if I am going to paint it yet. FWIW this was not the most frugal mod but it was DIY to the extreme.

 

Thanks Joe!

 

that parking lot looks familiar.

 

yeah i already have wired a 12v socket to the bed via some 10awg wire directly from the battery, this is also to power my bed lights. (see link in sig). I also have a setup that allows me to either clip directly onto a battery and give me a 12v socket, as well as a 40ft extension that this light runs off of perfectly cus its so low draw. again well worth the 25 bucks, ill end up putting together some scrap so i can secure it and point it out the back if im working out some where.

I like the fact that the light is 12v / 120v... so if i need it in the garage i can easily use it... or on the truck. Thanks for the heads up on the light.

 

this is so cool!

 

Looks nice!