switching back to carb intake system with distributor

has anyone ever switched back to the old fashioned carb intake and distributor to get rid of the rough idle of the stupid computer controlled pollution crap that never works right?

never mind the "should you" but lets talk about what "can" be done vs what isn't available to let you do it.

im not going to be racing my truck anyway so I rather have a smooth running engine that doesn't hesitate rather then the slightly quicker response of injection and computer controlled everything.

 

Looked at it once (just for shits n giggles), no one makes an intake manifold for a carb for the 2 and 3RZ engines. Plus you'd still need a supplemental ECU to control the ignitor (even the dizzy models have an ignitor). Find a 22R to swap in and get the badass side draft carbs for it. Though I am sure you can make an intake manifold and mount a weber 32/36 on it, or maybe a Holley 450CFM double pumper, if you truely wanted to build Frankenstien's monster. The ignition is what will fight you.

 

I wouldnt do it... Spend the money at a competent shop and have your issue diagnosed professionally.
Whats going on with it and what have you done in effort to fix it?

 

have you ever owned a carbed vehicle? there are way more issues than a problematic high idle. I drove my 86 jeep Cherokee to Moab over Eisenhower pass being passed by semis going 11 mph with my foot to the floor probably pumping more fuel out the tailpipe than burned in the engine. The pass it at about 11000ft. Then it vabor locked a couple times on the way out there. And fuel starvation while out in Moab while off camber was a huge pain in the ass. While going up a hill climb on fins and things I had to stop 3 times to pour fuel down the float bowl breather to keep it going. Not fun at all.

 

I think there is a reason no one makes a carb vehicles anymore.

 

This. EFI is way more efficient which means better fuel economy and power. Can't beat EFI.

 

I spent over $200 that I cant afford to just piss away trying to solve this thing and have done everything but replace the ECM or buy a new truck at this point and I already would have if they made new tacos with a steel bed in it.

I just want a smooth idling engine, I don't need a hotrod, but it aint worth paying the stealership $1000 to tell me nothing is wrong with it (as I have already confirmed) and that's just how they idle. this aint a Harley so it not supposed to shake at idle and I think a Harley might even idle smoother then this thing.

lived and loved carbed engines for 25 years and they are great and just require a little basic maint like anything. no mountains around here to cause such "special" circumstances to cause issues.

while EFI might be more efficient, carbed engines are more trouble free and super easy to work on and keep them running well

yes, its called pollution control

 

ok so swap to the 22re engine with distributor and carb setup then what?

do I bypass the EGR sensor with the 10k resistor and bypass all the other sensors with resistors or do I just swap the whole wiring harness to the 22re engine harness and take the ECM out completely?

I am almost at the point I wouldn't mind buying a parts truck to do this or just sell my taco so I can drive something I don't have to let go of the steering wheel when it idles so im not shaking

 

22R, it is the carbd version, I have seen them run without a computer. The 22re is the EFI version and it must have a computer. You prolly need a transmission bellhousing from an older pickup I think 88 or older and different motor mounts (maybe?).

 

My 15 yr old '00 efi 5vze runs smooth.
and maintaining that is not a difficult thing.

Carburetor's on a 4X's are for crap.
In fact... purdy much any vehicle IMO.

Carburetor's lose engine power at higher elevations...
whereas fuel injection is more efficient and is less affected.
Even worse IMO...
A carburetor's float can run dry on a steep incline.
This could cause an engine stall... and could have a bad outcome.

If yer junk is running rough...
there is likely something wrong with it...
and you or others have missed that.

It's not the fault of it's engineering...
but more likely the lack of or inept maintenance.

Get used to efi... it's here to stay.
the other options would be a bus or taxi

Could be as simple as using the wrong spark plugs...
a dirty fuel filter... injector or even a faulty sensor.

Whom ever you pay to do your work
must not be very good at it.

pony up for a quality technician
whom has the right tools/equipment to diagnose the issue.

I'm 53... and grew up with old skool technology...
can't say I miss it at all.

Carburetors/distributors are more maintenance
then modern efi vehicles
no matter what old skool fantasy is stuck in yer head.

I had a carb'd '84 Toyota 4X
nearly killed me when it stalled once

 

Sub'd

 

If theres any type of misfire someone with a decent scanner (not the run of the mill elm or parts store ones) could probably figure it out...
You could replace every injector, sensor, plugs, wires, fuel pump, filter and adjust the valves for way less $$ and headaches than what your wanting to do. I found a coue people that have done it, iirc lce makes a carb intake.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...manifolds.html#/forumsite/21027/topics/706952






http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13...-2.html#/forumsite/20894/topics/113174?page=2

 

To sum up everyone else, yes you could bodge together a carbed 2rz, but with the cost of doing the job (fpr regulators, dizzy modifications, manifold manufacturing, various vacuum line relocations, gauge cluster redesign)and increased spending on fuel, you could probably just have a real mechanic fix your junk and end up with a better running engine in the end. If you don't have the money to fix it, you certainly don't have the money to mod it.

I truly believe your time would be better spent looking for a mechanic with a passion for either Toyotas or one who loves to diagnose. The guys who do only diagnosis and outsource the repair to another mechanic are generally the ones who get it right the first time.

 

Far cheaper and easier to take it to someone that has the proper diagnostic equipment to fix this thing. The dealer would be the last place i would go, they typically know the least about the vehicles they are working on. Trying to swap a truck that was designed around a FI engine back to carb would be an insane PITA.

 

I think there's really only two options here.

1. Bring it to someone who can fix it.

2. Sell it and buy and older pick up with a carb.

 

If you spent $200 and you can't afford that then why on earth are you contemplating an engine swap. Get rid of the tacoma and get a bus pass or a bike.

 

Other than rough idle, are you having any issues?

What trouble shooting have you done already?

Have you checked/replace the plugs?
Have you check the ignitors? (I had a bad ignitor on mine and it caused my engine to run rough intermittently)
Have you tried running a higher octane fuel for a tank?
Is your fuel pump good?
Have you looked at/replaced your fuel filter?

Check any/all of these things out before going through the trouble of an engine swap. The 22R is a great motor, but it's low on power and the carbs on it make lots of people pull their hair out.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...nsor-questions-those-who-replaced-theirs.html

this is the pre-post to this one

 

You could make it work,,but you need to bust into the wall and grab all the extra rat hole money you have.

Full MSD crank trigger ignition with a belt drive dizzy on the front with custom brackets, ect ect,,installed by a hot rod shop.

Weber at one time had a 44/44 downdraft kit made for Downey Offroad for there 22r's,,I know it for a fact, because I had one on my 85. Bolted the kit on with the out of the box jets, and it ran and burned like it should. A little bit thirsty, but it got you there. Plenty of power with the lower lift Comps Cam for the 22r and custom Header I had made.

It can be done Keaker,,but it's mountains of research into grey areas that not alot of people have traveled. Also buckets,,big buckets,, of money needed for all of the custom work and parts that would be required.

You would be deleting circuits that would need to be addressed eventually.

It would be MUCH easier and cheaper to swap in a old school chevy V-8,,or V-6. The aftermarket for those is endless and much cheaper.

Your truck just went from a DD to a project truck,,got some extended time, space and money to spare??

 

just the rough idle issues and a stumble or hesitation on slow acceleration (drive like grampa) between 1500-1750 rpms but drive like your trying to go somewhere and the hesitation isn't noticed, but still there

kinda what I figured, im just off on a rant when I was in full frustration mode lol.

I was thinking along the lines of a donor truck (pre-first gen) and take the carbed engine and exhaust with complete cab wiring harness and under hood wiring harness much like you do to switch from 4 to 6 cylinders. the carbed 22e gets better gas mileage anyway, they average around 29-32 mpg. my brothers 85 has a 1" exhaust pipe and gets 34 mpg but its a manual.

I don't mind living on hot dogs and lunchmeat for a month if its a fix that works, that's an efficient use of money so the sacrifice is worth it but not if its just pissed away $ on getting no results for the ongoing sacrifices I make to try to resolve this. I cant tell you how long its been since I ate meat that didn't come out of a tube or a can