Long Travel BS Thread

may be interested if they dont pick it up. never hurts to have a spare and im already down here in sd

 

Getting rid of your truck??? :/

 

I've got two, plus a housing if you want that as well.

 

wasnt someone looking for some 8" coilovers?
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/parts-accessories/225140.htm

 

If santabarbarataco doesn't take them I'm interested.

 

These things are fucking huge:

(4" ADS Bump Stop and Can)

Untitled by 4Running Daily, on Flickr

 

No I'm just over it. I live vicariously through you guys but even that's losing its appeal as time goes by

I go off-roading like once a year. I need to get a dirt bike or something so I can get some dirt therapy in

:headsmash:

 

I needed some, I bought those.

 

I want one. Text me 8057059650 thanks

 

Yesterday my buddy and I took his 1st gen 4Runner out for it's first real test drive besides just going around the block a few times to align the front end. 1987 4Runner, J-arm upper with horizontal uniball (axis of the cup) and heim mounts, A-arm lower with vertical uniball and bushings, heim steering, 10" coilover. We haven't done a proper suspension cycling yet but last we measured it was pulling 14" of travel with the CV limiting up travel and the LCA uniball limiting down travel. Plan is to lower the LCA mounts to pull more down travel which he thinks he can get 2" more droop. He doesn't have an account on here so figured I'd share, it's a gorgeous suspension.

Like I said, this was the first drive across town--nothing is even painted yet so there's a lot more work to do, but it feels wicked smooth already







https://youtu.be/x5Z8H2KrJnA

 

Looks good! ^^ just remember travel numbers aren't everything. A properly valved truck with 12 inches will outperform most bolt on stuff.

 

Anyone have any ideas on why the bolt holding my lower uniball keeps coming loose? I posted this a few weeks ago and its loose again, tightened it two days ago and once again it came loose. Cant figure out why it wont stay at the proper torque when the other side has had no problems, am I missing something?

 

Same thing happened to me. Had to tighten it while wheeling and stuff all the time.

 

Excellent Choice. I have ran the E-30 Pack since last year on my race truck. Has worked really well!

 

Is it goin into the stock spindle? I would think the spindle must be a lol bored out or whatever u wanna call it. The more u loosen an retighten and repeat ove an over it would get worse...but I real don't know shit compared to most on here, well a few

 

Maybe the misalignment is not getting pressed down into the little recess pocket on the lower? Too thick of powdercoat.

Does it use a metal crimp lock nut?
Tighten the crap out of it with a breaker bar.
Hard to get it really tight with the Allen on top if that's how the bolts are still.

 

I used a bolt the same size as the allen (12mm I think?) with a 14mm nut welded to it so I could use a wrench on the allen side to torque it down. Hillbilly engineering at it's finest, but it works.

 

Its attached to the spindle but thats not the bolt being loosened, its just the long bolt that goes through the uniball/misalignments and through the lca.

I thought the same about the misalignment but its on the lca flat, and on stock powdercoat. I tightened the shit out of it with a breaker bar to the point where I cant get it any further. What I dont understand is the driver side bolt I only tightened once and havent had any problems since (knock on wood).

Could it have anything to do with misalignments or something?

I will probably buy a second bolt and fit it on the rest of the threads, right now its making me pretty nervous to do any prerunning with that bolt loosening considering its already caused the previous bolt to snap and leave my lca dragging on the ground.

 

I have the right allen size to hold it in place and if I jack the truck up to the right point I can fit a socket over the bottom bolt and use a breaker bar.

 

Don't know what to tell you.
Lot of force on that one bolt.

If you can get a longer bolt do a washer then lock washer then double nut it with a standard nut and a final metal crimp nut + lock tight. Mark your bolt and nut clocking with a paint pen and if it gets loose but nothing has spun then it has to be the bolt stretching.

Doesn't camburg have some gnar grade bolts, maybe try them?