Best Sound Deadning Material

What is the Best Sound Deadning Material. I notice alot of Road noise when I ride with my rear seat back folded down on my DCSB. Has anybody used this stuff.

http://www.raamaudio.com/categories/Mat-and-Foam-Products/

 

Yes, I bought it from a group buy for my last tacoma. Worked great.

Check the group buy section, there is a different mat on there right now. I bought some to do my new tacoma.

 

I just finished installing a buttload of some stuff called Stinger Road Kill. It looks like all the same junk. I bought it because it was local and I am slowly working towards an audio upgrade. I ripped everything out and did the rear wall and all four doors. I used seven sheets at $30 per sheet. The difference is significant. I strongly considered the cheap peel and seal stuff, but there is no smell and I know I used the right product for its intended purpose. I didn't think it make that much of a difference, damn well worth it. I plan on ripping out the headliner next and completing the roof of the cab. It adds about 20 lbs total to your cab weight.

 

I did the floor/rear wall behind rear seats and doors on my tacoma. The floor was done a different day than the doors so I will say, the doors make the biggest difference.

 

Both. The stock system is lame as i am sure you've noticed, the sound deadening does help quite a bit.

I noticed the better mid/base right away. It is a great easy cheap mod everyone should do.

 

I would assume the doors were the hardest part?
What material did you use?

 

I used the Raam mat that the OP posted a link to.

The doors are very easy to do. There are a few DIY's that show how to remove the door skins, then it's just cutting the matt to fit and sticking it on. All four doors would take me 2 hours tops when I do it again.

The floor and behind the rear seats is a bit more work. A lot more bolts to deal with, more plastic/seats/carpet to remove. I wouldn't consider it hard, just a lot more time consuming than the doors.

 

Doors, pull the door panel and plastic sheet, save the plastic sheet for a template. Clean the inside of the door skin and then bond the entire length of the crash bar to the door skin with RTV. Cut dynamat or whatever brand of self adhesive sound control material you choose into 2"x2" squares and cover about 30-40% of skin. There is no need to cover everything. The goal here is to add mass to the metal to stop it from vibrating when sound hits it. Sheet metal that is flat will resonate more than metal that has shape. Get the flat stuff. Tap on the metal and find the spots that sound hollow and stick squares to it. By now your door should shut with a satisfying thud rather than a hollow ping. Take the plastic bag that Toyota covered the inside of the door with and use it to make a new door seal kit out of of mass loaded vinyl. Be care full not to get that black urethane glue on everything. Its a nearly impossible to clean.

Roof, the roof will make quite a difference in wind noise, rain and heat. Run down to an hvac supply place and get some duct insulation. You want the stuff that is about 3/16 thick foam and has silver mylar foil on both sides. Pull the headliner and clean the sheet metal. Stick more squares of your favorite sound control crap to the roof covering the same 30-40% tapping to find the loud spots. Then insulate the roof. No need to glue the insulation up there just carefully sneak it between the sheet metal and the cab bracing.

In the processs of pulling the headliner you will have had to remove just about every peice of interior plastic in the truck including the stuff off the back of the cab. That's where you will find the vent that is making all the noise the OP is trying to find.

The bottom line is that you are not going to make a vehicle into a fortress of solitude, at best you will quiet down all the background noise so that you can hear crap that your wife left in the door pocket better. By the way, I have a few rolls of MLV if anyone wants some.

 

i will say this now. The headliner is a bitch to remove, I tried and gave up. Some people have had sinking headliners after removing it.

 

Tom84ford - was there a night amd day difference when you deadened the roof and put that insulation on your headliner? Im lookong to tackle that soon, for hopes of having a cooler interior.

 

If you don't mind...
- From start to finish, how long did it take?
- Did you have any trouble removing panels without breaking any OE fasteners?
- On a scale of 1 to 10 with a 10 being an anything electromechanical fix-it expert, how are your do-it-yourself skills?

Thanks and enjoy your quieter, and no doubt, more enjoyable on the road, Tacoma!

 

When I did my doors/floor/behind rear seats it took me a full 8-9 hours. That was working at a slow pace as it was the first time I took apart my Tacoma's interior.

There were 2 fasteners behind the rear seat that I did break, but everything went back together snuggly without adding any rattles.

My skills are ok, I am definitely not a mechanic but with the DIY's available, working slowly, looking to make sure all the bolts/fasteners are out before pulling on a plastic piece it was relatively easy. I would give it a 3/10 or 4/10 for an average person.

As I said, start with the doors. They are by far the easiest and will get you used to the procedure. If you are happy with the result you can stop there. If you want more, do the behind the rear seats and the floor. This step is a lot more work, with a little less results.

As I said above, I tried to tackle the roof but gave up quickly as I did not want to make my roof liner sag.

I will pull up my DIY's and results from my work.

 

Here is my writeup and DIY for the doors/interior

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...acoma-sound-deadening-diy-install-review.html

 

The roof made a big difference in both noise and temperature. I would say its well worth the effort even though its not easy.

 

For those interested in a GB on sound deadening.

Check this out. I have placed an order for my new truck

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/group-buys/362264-shok-sound-deadener-group-buy-4-a-4.html

 

Tom, any write-ups for the roof? I couldn't find a single DIY for removing the roof liner my last time around.

 

Thanks Vantage. Your answers to my questions were very useful and much appreciated.

 

...excellent write-up as well!

 

Thanks a million Vantage and others. Very good info

 

No