Stripped filler plug on Man Trans...

Yep, that's what I did. The driveshaft makes it difficult to keep the socket square, so I rounded the corners a bit. Then I figured I'd use vice grips to get the job done (I have a replacement plug). Nope. The thing is on so tight that I don't know how I'm going to get it off. It's a filler it doesn't need to be that tight.

I'm asking for constructive suggestions only please.

Those who want to tell me how stupid I am will get replies about their mothers and sisters. That's the mood I'm in right now.

 

Have a nut welded on and try again

 

6 point socket to start.
The last thing you want to do is take a chisel and hammer to it.
Try to get a 6point in it with a hammer. Make sure it's flush.
If not try a good open end with a friend with a punch and hammer and some finess. Apply constant pressure and tap the end of a free corner.
Then there are other ideas for a more sadistic approach.

 

BTW. I hope it's still full and you haven't drained it yet..

 

Fortunately I knew better than to drain before removing the filler plug.

I also knew the vice grips were a bad Idea, but didn't think the damned thing would be that tight.

Both diffs and the transfer case were a breeze. I'll just leave it for now and figure something out. I'll probably go buy the right size open end and try that first. I don't want to pay someone to weld a nut on.

Any other suggestions are welcome.

ETA: got some dinner in me and my mood has improved - flame on.

 

A small quality pipe wrench with sharp jaws will likely do the trick, if it's not totally rounded off beyond grabbing at all.

Before you do anything though, smack the plug head-on a few times with a hammer - I know it's a restricted area, but smack it as best you can. This will compress the crush washer a bit, effectively loosening the plug slightly.

 

I would say to drain the fluid and fill it from the shifter inside the truck, just measure out the right amount first. Then deal with the nut on your own time not worrying about changing the fluid. Would probably go with the welded nut myself.

 

Could also try hammering on a smaller size socket.

 

Yeah man. The 6 point socket should work. Itll grab the flat sides and not the rounded edges. Thats all i got really because that "should" do it. Good luck

 

wrench didn't work. tried to pound on a socket, no go - wouldn't stay on. went to the pipe wrench, nut started crumbling. got out the propane torch and tried the vice grips while it was hot - stripped more. the thing is officially buggered.

I'm at 55k miles, this will be the second change. Toyota did the first one. I'm going to have a local exhaust guy do the exhaust reroute for me. I'll just do it sooner than planned and pull a "while you're down there...", and have him weld a nut on to it.

 

I'd spray it with penetrant and then heat the bolt with a torch before taking a welder to it.

 

The last thing you would want to do is spray a flammable then put a torch on it.
Heat makes metal expand and aluminum absorbs heat faster than metal, bad joo joo

 

Umm wipe it off first after a 2 hr soak............ Don't think the op will take a torch to it while he sprays it............

 

Yeah, I had that part under control...

When I put the heat to it, I was hoping the casing would expand faster than the plug and make it open easier. Nope. I had already used the hammer and that didn't help either. The tech at my dealer must have really cranked on the wrench. I'll just change the fluid when I get a nut welded on.

Thanks for all the recommendations. Maybe this thread will help someone not make the same mistake in the future.

 

Bring it to a dealership and pay to have them do it and install a new plug. Let them deal with the headache.

 

^^ This

If it slips, I'd grind or cut 2 parallel flat spots into it and use the pipe wrench.... that will work.

I wouldn't bother welding shit to it, IMHO.

 

That is really messed up. Very sorry to hear about this. If I had known it was done before I would have said don't touch it and take it back.
At least you have full trans. Good planning.
Good luck.....

 

I have a 5 speed manual and I recently topped off my trans and diff and after a few days of driving the fill plugs had loosened and were both leaking oil. Trans was so loose I could turn it by hand. I think I read that the torque specs for both are 38 ft/lbs. I put more that that and the still came loose.

As far as the filling goes the diff fill plug was so tight I had to use the next size down standard socket, the 24mm had a little play. Still couldn't break it loose. I put a cheater pipe on my breaker bar and bench pressed the bar using the weight of the truck to break it loose. Took almost all of the suspension travel before it broke. Such a pain in the neck.

 

I have a 5 speed manual and I recently topped off my trans and diff and after a few days of driving the fill plugs had loosened and were both leaking oil. Trans was so loose I could turn it by hand. I think I read that the torque specs for both are 38 ft/lbs. I put more that that and the still came loose.

As far as the filling goes the diff fill plug was so tight I had to use the next size down standard socket, the 24mm had a little play. Still couldn't break it loose. I put a cheater pipe on my breaker bar and bench pressed the bar using the weight of the truck to break it loose. Took almost all of the suspension travel before it broke. Such a pain in the neck.