StAndrew's Build

Just standard leads man.

 

Need someone who has a 1st gen like him to go over there, so that Chris can plug both of his MAF sensors into their truck. To see if they still work, or are bad. Not to put any into Chris' truck though.

I had an old member ask me to help him de-mod his truck, some time ago. I was tasked with removing all of the aftermarket tuning devices from the OEM harness, and a few other things. His kept blowing MAF sensors when either he turned on the left blinker or the windshield wipers. He couldn't figure out why, so decided to seal his truck and part out.

Well while I was going through all of the ECU wiring to remove the MAF Cal, I noticed how poorly the wiring was. Lots of connections that were only taped, and not with good tape, or even taped well. Bare connections were capable of touching. Then when I moved onto removing the aftermarket radio, I was blown away. Whoever he had paid for the install, had unshielded positive terminal blocks just dangling behind the radio. Even worse connections than on the MAF CAL. I was actually surprised his truck didn't burn down. To simplify, his had a short. One which blew his MAF sensor, and not his fuses.

Now I am not saying your wiring is anything like how his was. It does sound to me that there is a possible bad connection or short though.

Secondly. Is your air filter an oiled air filter? If it is, take it off, clean the MAF sensor and try running it again without the filter. Had a problem on Toon714 's, from his very nice carbon fiber K&N filter. Which was oiled.

 

This was hard to find; recommend everyone downloads their FSM:

http://web.archive.org/web/20080731033603/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

 

Yeah, all the wires are tapped but looked secure. Will look it over. Any voltage surges should come through the ECU though so should be able to detect it there.

 

They sell those electronic cigarettes for like $10

 

https://youtu.be/HRiK2HEA3QQ

Make one lol. Use a cheap fish tank pump

 

Lol now that is ghetto! I was selling Ecigs for a while that I got from China and used one to check for intake leaks by just filling up my mouth and blowing it in there. Worked pretty darn good.

 

Haha. Seems to work. I'm not a smoker so I refuse to put any of that in my mouth lol

 

I'm not either, but it works. I went through an entrepreneur phase and that was a great opportunity to make some money.

 

Checked all the terminals and relays associated with the P1135 code (from the FSM) and everything checks out.

I used the propane method; no noticeable vacuum leaks. I found one of the V-Clamps on the cross over pipe not sitting straight (Gio, I agree, Cx really needs to put a lip on their v-band flanges...). I re-set the v-clamp, took a lot of work to do. I guess the crossover wasn't exact so it didn't want to sit perfect (probably because the other side was tight) but I got it pretty good.

So far, AFR's are much better. They fluctuate a lot more than I like but no more engine code. I might look into a flow straightener for the MAF to fix the idle (AFR's fluctuate between low 14's and mid-high 15's. Seems to be leveling out as the ECU relearns but its still a predictable fluctuation; I think its the MAF not getting a good flow of air).

Haven't driven it yet but had it running to operating temps in the driveway and rev'ed the engine a few times to see how it responded.

All I'm going to say is so far so good...


Question, you guys know of a good flow straightener that can be inserted into the IC tubing? I don't want to have to recut the tubing to fit an extra section.

 

I don't think you need a flow straightner dude. Your ECU will take like a week to learn and the idle fluctuation is normal. I thought it was the same thing because my idle now goes from 14.2 to 14.8 every couple seconds or so so I took off the charge pipes before the MAF to where the MAF was exposed to open air and it did the same thing. It seems like the IC would stop the spiral effect but who knows

 

I think I still have an exhaust leak. The AFR fluctuation, again, only happens when the truck switches over to closed loop.

Im going to redo the cross over pipe with the stove top gasket maker to make sure they are sealed and retighten the headers.

 

Yeah that big of a fluctuation is pretty weird. Maybe try cleaning your idle control valve too... and MAF.

 

MAF is clean and did the idle control valve when I installed the turbo. There's def a leak. Now that I got it figured out, should be easy to fix.

 

Should be...but with your luck it's going to be some off the wall issue. You've got Gremlins living in your turbo.

 

Murphy's law is a bitch. X2 for me. Probably my flux capacitant fluid...

We'll see, just got finished with the maintenance. Def an leak though; the inside of the V-band was showing scoring form the gasses. As I tighten one side down, the crossover was pulling away from the other. I tightened them down evenly this time and used some stove gasket adhesive on the leaking side. That should solve the issue

Ha! Just saw your truck is getting "worked on" too! Phil and Chris are good people to help you like that. Gears are def on my short list but right now the bank is saying NO.

 

This is why I waited for other people to buy the CX manifolds before I bought a set. I get to observe and learn from the issues you encountered and how to fix them

 

Smart guy lol

 

So your auto has that stupid reaction,where if an exhaust sensor goes bad, you get a CEL which makes your transmission act dumb. As well as if you have an exhaust leak.

Lucario Runner and I installed headers on his 4Runner. '08 model. After a few miles a CEL came. So did his ABS light. His ABS stopped working. Ends up that the flange bolts had loosened off, and he had an exhaust leak. How ridiculous is it, that an unrelated system such as the exhaust, would cause him vehicle to loose a safety feature?!

I also have a coworker who's 4Runner, your age range, had an O2 sensor go bad. Same scenarioas yours, with the way her's was acting up. That is one for the books now. Don't forget it.

Real easy check is obviously the visual Que's of exhaust soot. The others being if you can hear and/or feel the exhaust leak in from the clamps.

Your v-band clamps were both flat machined surfaces? Not male-female, correct?

 

Manny trannies FTW!!!! Yeah these CX headers have only female Vband flanges. Such a PITA to deal with...