Colorado B.S. Thread

I was told from center of hub to bottom of fender was 23" to achive 3" of lift. That is with shocks loaded of course.

 

Not the answer I was looking for but thanks for playing.

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I was in Eagle Pass, TX. It's a couple hours S/SW of San Antonio. Basically out in the middle of nowhere.....

I was surprised I didn't see any of that

 

I am a bit late but you will have to call Toytec as I have never fully gotten an answer to this myself. As Phil states they typically tell you the center of hub to bottom of fender measurement. And I know you can only have a max of 2"s of thread showing on the bottom.

I think the "turns" on the adjuster might vary based on you front end weight and the spring you have installed on the coil overs. So there might not be one clear answer.

 

Seems funny that they would reference such a non-technical measurement.

The fender's aren't flat and level, so that lends itself to differences in interpretation of the measurement.

Also, that all goes out the window when you trim your fenders right?

 

This is how they measured to see if my rear leaf pack was in spec.

 

what was the verdict on that?

 

Still awaiting an answer. I told them I didn't expect an immediate fix so when they get it they will contact me

 

when thats the only answer i know of thats what i offered up!!! you can't just turn them like 3 turns and expect to get exactly the measurements your looking for, you will have to have the truck suspension loaded and then crank em up, drive it to jostle the suspension and then take a measurement. If that didn't work then crank the wheels all the way in one direction to gain access to the rings and crank up again, or down again and start the whole process over. If your not willing to do that then id suggest calling toytec and have them tell you the same thing.

eric (michelin man) is correct as well that once you cut your fenders that measurement goes out the window

Good luck

 

I mean in terms of them being in spec or not? Did they have an answer for that?

 

Did that guy with the supercharger problem ever get it worked out?

 

Got through a few minutes ago. It's all dependent on thread pitch used and they have used several thread pitches. He thought that 1 turn would equal ¼" but based on my notes and measurements, it looks like the thread pitch I'm working with works out to 1 turn equals ⅛".

I ended up going too high yesterday and need to bring them down a bit. I'll see if I can come up w/ some sort of rough estimate for future reference.

I did 20 and 23 turns and ended up going up almost 3". That roughly equates to ⅛" per turn, roughly. When I had measured on the actual threads and backing the lock nut 1 turn it measured about 1/16" so I used that for my rough estimate. 20 turns would equal approx. 1 ¼". The Toytec tech did state that it wouldn't translate from 1" to 1" on the threads to lift ratio.

 

You guys must be talking about the BOSS Coilovers?

Because on my Toytec ultimates we only had to crank them 4 or 5 times for an inch, because 1/2" up on the threads was equal to 1" more lift.

 

Derp

 

Hell yeah man. I gained 2"s of lift when I trimmed my fenders.

 

I've only lost inches lately, more mods less lift

 

Random question but do any of you guys have a best buy movers coupon they aren't going to use? Thinking about buying a new tv and the 10% coupon would really help.
Thanks,
Charlie

 

Happens to the best of us, my friend.

 

I've been in touch with them for sliders for EXACTLY the same reason. Well, I still want them jack-strong so my budget is a bit more. They are around $500 for a double cab, bolt-on as is, or drill a couple holes in your frame and make it jack-strong. I haven't found anything cheaper unless you get into nerf bars. If you're willing to bolt it on, that's probably what you'd pay for cheap sliders AND to have someone weld them. And you'd have to prime/paint/Herculine or whatever yourself. This is my next purchase after the tonneau cover.