SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

Hmmm... Word of caution, I have never heard of dielectric grease being used in this way. I have always used it for the rubber seals on the connectors but never on the pins.

"Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone-based grease that's designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. It also disrupts the flow of electrical current, which makes it good for lubricating and sealing the rubber parts of electrical connectors."

definition of Dielectric: "dielectric, insulating material or a very poor conductor of electric current. When dielectrics are placed in an electric field, practically no current flows in them because, unlike metals, they have no loosely bound, or free, electrons that may drift through the material. Instead, electric polarization occurs."

For metal to metal contact I use electrical contact cleaner like deoxit which cleans and protects.

My two cents.

 

Swapping in a used engine and selling the rebuilt one might be an option...... find one for a grand and have your mechanic swap it in.

 

Morning guys! Guess what arrived yesterday?! A circuit opening relay to try out on the Taco! It's hilarious, you'd think it was Christmas morning over here every time we open packages from Michigan these last few months! "Woo hoo, a COR?!?! Hurray!" Thank you so much K!! Will take it to mechanic this morning, and ask about ECU. And cross fingers. For the 87 millionth time. Cross 'em with me TW!!

 

Cool!

 

Hey guys! Dropped off the COR, he was going to try it today I think. Tried ECU, no change.

He said he's running out of electrical causes to check, and is starting to think it could be mechanical, something with cam timing or something like that? He was talking about taking some serious stuff apart to check certain things with that theory, but said this would take him ~3.5 hours to do. I'm pretty sure he's been charging us very little in labor so far while he just looks at it when he has a few minutes between other stuff, but this would be sort of a more serious time commitment for him to make to it I think, so he's letting us know that up front and asking if we want him to go ahead or not. We're gonna talk about it tonight, but it's a tough call because it could be $350 spent to find the culprit, or $350 flushed on nothing. Before that decision is made though, I'm thinking I'll try to get more info about his theory and be sure he's tried the other COR first. Also, I told him I might be able to request a donor charcoal canister from a very nice person if he thought it was worth trying, and he thought that was a good, worthwhile idea to try.

The other thing he talked about was the starter. I honestly don't remember/didn't completely get everything he was saying about that, but fortunately Eric was with me so he may have gotten more of it than I did, we'll talk about it more tonight. How silly would it be if after all this time of having a mysterious starting issue, it turns out to be the STARTER????????

 

Starter is not a bad thing to try.

I still think all the grounds should be gone through. Like the one poster said, taking them off and cleaning them up should eliminate that as a possibility.

Then maybe try a different battery. Don't ask me why, I don't know. But some batteries are possessed and act weird. It's all sorcery in those things anyway.

 

I agree, we did talk about grounds a bit and I think he's thoroughly gone over them. Will talk to Eric tonight about his impression of that part.

Yep, trying a different starter might be worthwhile. Hmmm. Wonder where I could get a different starter to try?

 

I agree. Quality grounds are paramount. I wish I could remember the locations for all the grounds.

I might know where a good, used starter can be found.

 

While I can see the point you are trying to make, dielectric grease has been used inside connectors for many years. It keeps the pins from any risk of corrosion, as it totally seals it from moisture. When making the physical connection, the terminals will still make proper contact, but the dielectric will keep them sealed from the outside. So there is no risk of causing problems using it in this manner. Just so you know.

 

Any grease works just fine. I think people just like to say "dialectic". It is easier to pronounce with a smile on your face. Try it, then try it with a frown.

 

Mmmkay, drinking and grilling again?

 

We both agree that dielectric grease is an insulator, What you are saying basically relies on the grease being pushed out of the way and allowing the two metals to contact each other. I will not take the chance of heat and vibration to cause enough separation of the contacts for the grease to migrate between them creating an insulating layer. Why risk it when there are better products on the market for this purpose? But to each their own, just wanted to give people more options

This guy has a good explanation on this
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

 

I agree but dielectric grease is thinner and flows more like soft butter so it gives less "suction" to plug connections then something like wheel bearing grease.

I use white lithium grease on plug boots, wire cable ends, linkages, and for the few rare times I need to apply it to a few electrical plug connections.

 

Your dielectric stuff is a voltage isolating grease,,keeping it on its path. It can't beat the metal to metal contact that the connection tabs make, so no worries there.

Back in my old slot car days,,we used it for the wiper style speed controls to keep them working smooth and fast, with little wear.

I have some contractor grade crimp connectors that are loaded with the stuff. Most of the good connectors are loaded with it now.

 

Wow, you guys are pretty serious about your grease! I had no idea there was so much to the world of various greases.

Debating about whether to cough up the cash and have him basically take apart top half of engine or not. What do you guys think?

 

I say go get a low mile junk yard engine with harness and be done with all this.... No way I would put any more cash into that particular motor.. If they f'd up the top half some how then theres a good possibilty they didnt do the bottom end right either....
Or trade the truck in on a different one.. I would have a hard time trusting the new motor on any kind of long trip now. If you really really like that truck start from scratch with a used engine, invite the neighbor over and break out the cold ones... You could most definantly have this issue solved in a weekend..

 

Oh geeze, thanks for the input Knuckle but my nerves just can't take another swap. No way. That's about the only thing I'm sure of right now. I see your point, I really do, but I just can't handle all the what ifs of doing that.

But, I agree with you for the most part about having a tough time trusting it no matter what now, and about having reason to doubt the bottom half if the top half is f'ed up.

Which does kind of point to the best option being just trade it in and be done, like you're saying. Argh. Such a big decision/big investment. Might be getting close to time to go that route........

 

A low mile used engine and a complete harness would most definantly fix your problem... Probably cost you in the neighborhood of $1500 or so.
Have your current mechanic go through your engine you had rebuilt to see if there is a problem with it, if not sell it and recoup a good portion of your money.. Im thinking the first guys you had work on it messed up the wiring harness honestly, i dont really see a mechanical failure just causing hard warm starts..
Either way a jy engine will get you all the sensors, injectors, fpr, etc. So your saving a fortune in trial and error right there.
But I wouldnt blame you for just wanting to be done with the damn thing either...