2014 Tacoma lifted, tire & wheel help

X2. Bigger lift bigger tires equal more wear and tear.

 

Well, I did wanna get 38s at first and slowly had to convince myself down to 35s haha. It's pretty much my dream vehicle at the moment though, to have it all lifted and finished. I'll have to have it for a while and decide for myself I guess, but I really really want it haha.

 

Drop bracket lifts lower everything to stock angles while still achieving the amount of space for bigger tires. Where as a true 3" lift has your CV's angled upward increasing the repair costs over time. This was the deciding factor for me when choosing a lift for a daily driver that will see 400 to 500 miles a week. After almost 80K miles, I still have yet to replace a CV joint or rubber boot.

 

There is some truth to what people are saying about the 6 lifts, but they aren't as "uncapable" as some people will make them out to be. In fact these things are pretty capable in stock form. But if you with the 6" lift then do it right. I got the BDS kit that came with a skid plate for the cross member and a "you break it we send you another" coverage policy for all the parts. Plan on upgrading to the Fox coilovers with reservoirs too. If you're into extreme off roading then maybe look past the drop bracket lift but otherwise, If done right, you'll be happy.

 

^
Agrees with this. The one kit to stay away from is the Rough Country. Bds makes an excellent kit and the zone is basically the same kit. Rcd also makes a very nice kit as well.

 

I am also going 6" lift and 35" tires with 18" fuel hostage wheels. I was quoted $6100 from les swabs and $5940 from 4wheel parts. Thats 100% everything included tire sensors/labor/parts and alinement. Everyone here hates DB lifts but if you are like me doing it for looks more then for wheeling you will be fine. From what I have read on here 90% of people runing 35" tires didnt re gear and say they cruise fine. I have a manual 6 speed tranny witch is lower geared then the auto so I know Ill be fine. If you really want a off road machine do a SAS and be done with it

 

This is quite helpful and makes me quite torn. About how much would repairs cost if you had to? I would like more clearance and if It's not too expensive...

 

If you are going for looks get this guy!!!

http://bulletproofsuspension.net/toyota-tacoma-10-12-inch/

 

This sounds exactly like what I'm probably going to do. Since this is a daily driver I'll probably buy another truck and use it as a toy and go with a 3"

Why would you want to go larger vs. smaller wheels?

Smaller is smoother ride, better gas mileage and acceleration? The advantage of larger is just better handling?

6k seems pretty expensive, I was thinking more in the 4-5 range with re-gearing. You should let me know how everything turns out, I still have a lot of saving to do 'till I get tehre. :/

 

It should end up closer to $5,000 maybe a little over. That's what it would have cost me (and for 20" wheels) had I not picked up some used tires from CL. I got the lift for $2,300 installed and then about $1,150 for wheels and then tires would have ranged from $1,400 to $1,600 new.

 

where did you get this done at and how long ago? Les swabs quoted me just over $1700 for 4 35x12.50x18 toyo m/t tires

$2500 for 6" fabtech and $360 labor to install lift

 

looks. same reason im going 6" lift and not 3"

 

Exactly

 

Ah. I actually prefer the look of smaller wheels.

 

I prefer my 3" on 35's

 

Here is the 3" version of what you want.

Toytec-1000
Wheels & tires -1800
This whole setup cost less than the 6" lift. And you end up with just as much ground clearance if not a little more.

 

Initially It's cheaper, but aren't repairs more frequent and more expensive? That's kind of the way I understand it, that 3" is more for serious off-roading and less for daily driving.

 

People say that 3 inch lifts change the stock cv angle a lot. But there was a post on here i saw that was talking about differential drop kits and how they aren't needed. Someone worked out the actual difference between stock and a 3 inch lift and it equaled out to be like a 2-3% difference in cv angle. Plus Cvs are only like 70-100$.

Also you can run 35s on a 3 inch lift. Theres a lot of guys who do. You just have to trim a lot. Also regearing is a good idea. A friend of mine who isn't on TW has 33s on his silverado and he doesn't have gears he has an scan gauge and he says he has to watch the trans temp when he's working the trans until he gets gears.

So yeah 3 inch is gonna be a lot cheaper. Plus just the difference in price between 33s and 35s. Huge difference. Also Try to stay with 16 or 17 inch rim regardless of what lift you get. Well if you get DB stay away from 16s. But its dumb how a larger rim with same size tire costs more. Plus the more sidewall you have the better in any off road situation. Mud tires and low pros make me laugh. Would suck to have a rock pop your bead off halfway to nowhere. Plus with 33s with a little work you can fit a 33 spare. 35s you will have to carry a tire in your bed or get a tow. running 35s with a stock spare would be baaaaad.

And for a daily driver I'm not exactly sure about pinchers but personally with my icons my truck actually has better handling than before. I can race around just a little faster even though my truck is 3 inches taller.

Another thing a lot of DB lifts run blocks in the back. Blocks can contribute to axle wrap so be careful with them things. Leaf packs would be preferable but then thats even more money on top of an already expensive lift.

 

Good info.. Thanks

 

+1 on the blocks only way I would run blocks for that height would be with traction bars.