Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Wait, what?

 

im not lowering it that much. just an inch or two. maybe.

Also over the weekend I needed a new 80 grit flapper disc so I picked up one from harbor cuz the welding store wasn't open. they stepped up the quality of those things but the skinny wheels still suck.

 

Haha, nice

 

Nice! Looks good. Was the hydro issue just the lines being switched?

I like the sticker on the diff

 

Yup, backwards lines it worked perfect in the 20 ft I moved it, didn't take much time to bleed like I thought it would.

And I just noticed the sticker, that is awesome

 

I really need to get my rear kings installed, but I have a few questions before I start fabbing the mounts. One, do I need additional spacers top and bottom, or do I make my mounts fit the width of the upper and lower shock eyes as is?









Second, these shocks are already charged, any advice on keeping them compressed for mockup? They're stiff as hell, which is what I ordered, but trying to hold them in a compressed state to check for clearance is a no go unless they're strapped somehow. I guess I can just tack in my mounts where I think they'll fit and mount them up and see what happens. Maybe a piece of PVC cut to size to hold in place for just a quick idea to see if I'm notching or not.

 

You def need spacers up there. It'll just bind otherwise. Probably 1/2" each side and you'll be good.

 

Ratchet strap them to their compressed length.

 

Ok, that's what I was thinking. I've been looking for pictures, but that part of the process seems to be a known quantity so no one talks about it b

That's a good idea. I'll have to see if my hooks will fit in the holes. Definitely have to wrap them up good so I don't bugger my pretty shocks.

Thanks

 

I'm going to pick these up from ruffstuff for the top.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?



So the bottom looks ok as is, right?

 

Just looked at my shocks again. They're 1.25" width, top and bottom. The top won't rotate, so I don't see why I shouldn't just use a 1.25" width mount. The lower mount has the same width misalignment spacer, so theoretically it should be good to go. I'll lay things out as it is and go from there. I can fab a couple spacers and adjust the mounts if it comes down to it.

 

At Schrader valve drop the pressure....will make it easier to compress and mock up....there's a k ternal piston that will desperate oil and nitrogen.
The lower mount has a heim on lower yes space it out so it can rotate....the upper mount i would do a small spacer but more so make sure it its mounted so the bolt hole is front to back on urethane end for any possible bind....

What valving did you go with and what's the applications...spring pack , front or rear etc....

I went and bought a nitrogen bottle and started tuning my own kings again...used to tune all my own stuff revalve and rebuild....so started doing it again,....curious as to what stack they stuck in there...

 

This is for the rear. The shock will be mounted outside the frame rail with a slight rake towards the rear of the truck. I'm running chevy 63 leafs with a six inch shackle. On the scales the back axle weight was 2900lbs, so I'm pretty heavy in the back.

Yes, there is a shrader valve on the reservoir. Looking at the tag I don't see the pressure they were set too. I'm sure I can release the pressure to make mockup easier. I guess I can put a gauge on the shrader valve to check the pressure. What kind of pressures do these things normally get charged too?

Here's the information on the valving. It's greek to me at this point though.

 

If you put a gauge on there you'll likely lose the oil... seen it...done it. They are "usually" charged to 150 PSI, but every shock is different. I wouldn't let the nitrogen out. Cost me $50 to fill it around here.

 

Hah, that was my next question. I did find the 150psi number last night though.

 

I am 99% sure I killed my Ruff Stuff heims in the panhard and upper link already. Every time I'm in 4wd and sometimes in 2wd, I'm getting some pretty bad clunking. Note to everyone, spend the money on good heims!! I'm going to end up swapping in EMF heims, rebuildable, greasable etc

 

ouch I built my own fill station for $70 and then just traded my co2 bottle for the nitrogen even though two of my friends have them just because it's a pain in the ass to borrow them all the time.

 

They shipped the sbocks to you charged? Mine have all arrived empty.

The 10 means the shim is 0.010" thick. You have 2 10's stacked then a Flutter. That is considered the low speed area and it will be where you spend most of your time riding. The flutter is usually an 8 that is the smallest diameter shim so it spaces your 10's off of the 15's. It softens up the valving so it rides better on the street. The rest of the shims are 15's which are fairly stiff and will help on hard landings or bumps.

The rebound is all 12's. Which is fairly slow actually. Most guys run 8's on leafs.

Kings are pretty easy to figure out. They make 8's, 10's, 12's, 15's, and 20's.

 

Here's a link to some basics

http://www.crawlpedia.com/shock_tuning.htm