Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Flutter is not always a 8.....it is usually a 1" and can be behind Initial compression shim or 2nd one back...usually it's the same as the stack if it's straight rate is all 15s... and can go from there....based on amount of slow speed bleed needed...smaller shim less flow or neck back on initial 2 shims in his case..

My bypass are 8 compression and 12 rebound but I use bypass to tune and I'm inside frame rail with hydraulic bumps going in to assist bottom out.....

All depends on the variables and use......weight, spring rate, ratio on shock mounting, use etc.....it's define try a art to be good....it's go on base and tune for my use....too much to try and do others without doing g it for a living....


Thanks for posting up that stack....firm on slow speed bit bleeds enough to ease rollers and engages when slammed....

 

That's why I said usually but yes. My flutter is a 15.

 

18's?? Will all of that be used?

 

I use all of my 18's but I'm running an LT kit.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the lesson Brady. It looks like I have a bit of learning to do before I figure this stuff out.

Good deal. You've confirmed that the stack is in line with what I asked for.

I'll be using 16" of that 18". I didn't want to go with a 16" and run the risk of bottoming out or over extending. Also didn't want to have to rely on straps. The cost difference was minimal.

Now to get the front end to do the same thing.

 

I angled my 14's and use every inch of those. course I bought cheap shit so if they blow out no fucks.

 

I've got cheap shit too... FoA I'm hoping to upgrade them eventually.

 

my air bumps are FOA but ill move them to the back after I get new ones. going get some saw's later on and move these to the back if they are still alive.

 

They've done good for me for what they are. I bought them a long time ago kinda when they were new and yeah

 

Foxes all around. I would go kings if I did it again, here in the midwest at least. I cant stand looking at my rusty foxes

 

making progress for the few hours a day I get to spend on her.

 

Yep i killed my ballistic uppers in a matter of weeks I switched to 1.25" Heims on the uppers and have been good for about a year. I'm starting to get some clanking so I'll be checking them out.

 

damn you and your 2-post lift. :

 

ever since I started working at a shop I made my dad come here for his oil changes. I refused to work in a pit after having been spoiled. my dad got spoiled too so he bought a lift and I remodeled our shop to make it fit.

I sas'd my first truck without a lift and that shit sucked this is where it's at.

 

The cost difference isn't that much between 1.25 heims and the right size EMF rod ends so I'll just go EMF and forget about em

 

I looked at EMF and they are very pricey. Hopefully you get what you pay for. I am running the barnes enduro joints so we'll see how they do.

 

clays stuff is awesome he even torture tests it well worth the coin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF90npdAKsE

 

Who here runs unitbearings? Should I be on my 04 SD60? I know a lot of guys do, what reliability can I see out of them? I've read a lot, all mixed reviews.

I can either have 4 factory ub's bored for 35sp, drilled for 6x5.5 then grab lockouts and stubs. Would have 2 spares and be relativity cheap, easy to change.

Or should I put the effort in now and grab knuckles, spindles n hubs from a 90's Ford 60. Its not going to be easy to find, going to cost fair bit of money up front but cheap to change/service.

 

When and if I run the D60 I will be keeping the UB's. If you look at all the currie axles they come with the UB. I'd say they've been "proven" enough. Just look at Wyatt for an example. There is alot of mixed reviews though that's for sure...

 

The Unit bearings are great, but very expensive if you have to change them. At some point I'll be switching over to the unit bearing eliminator kit since I drive my truck on the road so much and I'm running such big tires.Towards the end of it's daily use, about a month before I stopped driving it daily both unit bearings went out. Thats and $800.00 hurtin' to the wallet. But considering thats 60,000 + miles on them with all those harsh wheeling trips in there that isn't a bad record. But you can't do any preventative maint on them and you just can't change one bad bearing. You have to swap out the entire thing.

They are great, but I'm gonna go to the old spindle style and just repack the bearings after a certain amount of trips. especially if there is deep water crossings.