is there a diy for changing rear brake shoes

bumpp this upp

 

After 8 years and 150,000 miles on my 2006, the drum removal was pretty easy. I sprayed where the axle and drum contact each other with Kroil and used the bolt method. The one main spring at the top is a major PITA. I spent a couple hours with the first wheel, the other side took me 20 minutes once I went through the learning curve and bought vise grips.

Buy new bolts rather than using some off your truck, they are going to strip out after threading them into a rusted corroded hole, Use Kroil or a similar oil. I ran a tap through them afterwards to clean up the threads for the next guy.

Spring pliers are a joke for the the top spring, I finally made a trip to the store and bought vise grip needle nose (small version) to make the removal and install much much easier!! Clamp on close to the coil and get after it!

The removal of the two springs with the holdown cups are another PITA without the right tool which I didn't have. Use adjustable pliers with serrated teeth, grip the cup and push while reaching behind the drum with your fingers and spin the pin a quarter turn, Way to easy!!! Do the same for installing.

 

Hi, I have a 2.7 2009 tacoma. I have a hard time taking the drum off using the two 8m X 1.5 bolt. I released the hand brake, spray wd40, turn the two bolts and the drum does not come off. I heard 2 snap and noticed 2 pins fell out. Put everything back (except the pins) and call it a night.

What am I doing wrong, help?

I have done a drum brake on a 1995 honda accord and had no issue remving the drum on the accord.

Obviously this is not my picture. But I think the two pins (see arrow) snapped off.

 

Just don't be like me and try to do this with your e-brake on.

 

I only jacked the car up one side (rear driver side) because I just wanted to check the shoe for wear. The other side is not off the ground so I wonder if that cause the e-brake to not release fully. I will try jacking both side and try again tomorrow and I really need to re-install those pins before I can drive the truck again.

Should have left it alone but the rear were making noise and my truck has 82k miles.

 

These drum brakes are a complete PITA!

 

Okay sounds good, how do you release the spring loaded ratcheting lever off the star wheel to move it backwards ? is there a special tool for that? is that highly recommended before removing the drum via the metric screws?

 

No.

 

Nope. Just drums, pretty much like since the invention of hydraulic brakes.

Even if disc pads or drum shoes don't need replacement due to wear, and annual partial disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of moving parts is good PM. Even more valuable in vehicles used off road/wet/mud/snow/salt.

 

I just disassembled both of my rear brakes the other day because my parking brake would stick occasionally. I bought a brake plier tool, and a brake washer hold down tool. These help huge and aren't all that expensive. You need to take the plug off the top of the rear of the brake backing plate and spin the starwheel to retract the drums. You can buy a brake spoon or use a flat blade screwdriver. You'll need to use one screwdriver to push a metal tang toward the outside of the wheel so you can turn the starwheel. You want to turn the wheel toward the center of the truck, this loosens the brakes. It's a bit of a pain, but it can be done. Once the starwheels are loosened off, use you metric 10mm bolts on the drum, and pull it off. I cleaned up all of my brake components and lubed the ebrake contact points, as well as my park brake cable. No more sticking. Be sure to adjust your drums so that they just drag, when you assemble everything. You need to turn the starwheel toward the outside of the truck for this. I was intimidated and got it done. Just do one side at a time and use the assembled side for a reference.

 

Good job! Nice simple write up.

Only thing I'd add is to check the wheel cylinder for leaking. As long as the caps are nice and dry, let 'er be. If they are wet, it's time for new cylinders, or a cylinder rebuild kit.

However, most of the time a 6 month or annual service/inspection (depending on how hard you are on them) is enough, and cylinders will often last as long as 2-3 sets of shoes.

 

I second this. My mistake was not backing off the shoes with the star nut. Once I did that everything went smoothly. And online info like this helped a lot for someone who rarely touch drums brake. And be patience helped. Thanks all.

 

Pics help me.

 

The correct way to set the rear brake shoes IAW the service manual:

ADJUST REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE

(a) Provisionally install the hub nuts. ( hub nuts = lug nuts to hold drum in place )

(b) Remove the hole plug, and turn the adjuster to expand the shoe until the drum locks.

(c) Using a screwdriver, release the adjuster 15 notches.

(d) Install the hole plug.

 

Thanks for sharing, this is good information to know. I kinda thought the metric screws were 10MM and not 8 like it was specified earlier. Well the front hubs have 10mm screws I know that for sure.

 

The first Toyota rear drums really gave me a headache. Those drums are soft which allows the shoes to channel into them. I quickly learned to use the threaded holes to drive a bolt into them and then tap/bang the drum with a hammer. Once it breaks loose, run the bolt in a little more and repeat. It is very likely that the drum's lip will snag on the shoes, preventing the drum from coming off and stressing the shoe retainer springs. The simplest way to get the drums off from there is to release the bleeder and rotate the drum. After replacing and adjusting the shoes it will be necessary to bleed the brakes. Bleeding the brakes takes a couple of minutes per side compared to backing off the adjusters which takes several minutes per side. Plus, you get some fresh DOT 3 in the reservoir.

 

I took my rear drums off today using the two bolts and tapping some. Driver side came off easy. Passenger side was alot tighter. I should have loosened the star adjustment as I had a retainer spring come off. Lucky I didn't break it!

 

Take the plug out from the back plate and turn the star wheel to back off the shoes. If the drum doesn't come off, use the two bolts