98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

Good luck, let us know how that goes.

 

Yeah it's definetely doable but I wouldn't trust such thin metal to hold threads. If you can weld it, definitely consider it.

 

Received the copper rtv and stove adhesive from Amazon last night. Did you put the metal gaskets that go between the wastegate and dump tube and the wastegate to exhaust in addition to the copper rtv or just the copper only? From your build it seemed you used both. Also the stove sealer, did you put that and the metal gaskets on the turbine or just the stove sealer only? And on the vbands, did you put that on the inner slot of the vband?

 

Can he do it without getting metal shavings in your oil pan? I wouldn't

 

Im going to do it if there is enough access to it from the side somewhere. Hopefully a right angle drill will work. So drill slowly and carefully. Most shavings should be pulled out with the bit. Then you lightly grease your anp tap and thread the hole. When you're done cleaning/prepping/silicon(lots)/installing the bung, you drain the oil taking most of the shavings with it. Then you hook up your turbo oil drain/return line and run used motor oil down through it to clean out any shavings, if it's really needed you can flush clean it with a garden hose and let it dry. Change your filter, put new oil in and.........I'm really hoping it works. Should save a full day of hard greasy work.

 

Trust me, I didn't want to clean out the inside so I tried very hard to keep the drill hole clean. Sprayed it and still got shavings. Don't need that shit in your oil. Do what I did and get a used oil pan on ebay, weld that one up, and just do a quick swap with your diff out. Its really not too hard. I did it like three times already, twice by my self.

 

GioGuitarDude may have an extra oil pan, because he bought mine after I swapped my pans out.

I personally would not drill the pan with it still installed. I wouldn't trust that thin material to hold, and I still think you'll get a fair amount of shavings inside the pan. Removing the front diff sucks ass, but if nothing else, just take it to a shop and have them remove the diff lol.

 

Yeah I guess I do...
Josh we can meet up dude and you can have my extra pan. With your welder and some SS rods you can EASILY weld a bung in like I did. It took me like 5 minutes to do mine.

 

yes, I really want to meet up with you gio. You should pm me. I would readily throw you down some of these things $$$ for your help. Also would love you to give me some hands on pointers in my engine bay. I'm going to start on the ic tonight, and into tomorrow. Mainly just worried about clearance with the ac lines. I do have a big ic......24x12x3....it's actually only 2 inches longer and an inch taller than the cx kit one.

 

Yeah the main chore right now is mounting and securing the IC location. Once that is done, the rest of the intake is a cakewalk. You can put latex gloves over the IC in and out holes to keep debris out in the mean time. I had to buy some SS mechanics wire to keep the bigger AC pipe against the wheel well. There will be no clearance issues once you do that. I don't have a turbo blanket and my AC lines don't show any signs of toasting.

 

ok, I really ran into one.....so my turbo was advertised as a 2.5 inch outlet, from cx, the one they sent is 2inch.....they are willing to accommodate me, I may have to pay shipping. Now, important questions, he was telling me it doesn't matter to much about the outlet weather or not it is 2 or 2.5", but recommended I run the 2.5 inch charge pipes instead of the 3. I know you guys mentioned to run 2.5 inch too, but I was going 3 because of not running a bov. Also Robb said he was going to run 3 inch. Plus the throttle body intake is 2.75inches. I may eventually be pushing 14psi with my methanol set up proper. What do you guys think I should do?

 

Honestly I think physics would tell us that (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the maximum air flow and performance is going to ultimately depend on the most restricted part of the system... which is the turbo outlet at 2". You can have a 2" thick garden hose and a 1" garden hose that will still flow the same amount of water if the faucet and nozzle is the same. But obviously it will take longer to fill the 2" garden hose to wanted pressure.
That's my philosophy anyway... you won't be disappointed either way.

 

The way I see it, the time it takes to fill up that volume of space will be so small, that it won't be noticeable either way.

 

I think he will be able to see a difference because of that big turbo even though it's ball bearing and all that jazz. Like I said though, he won't be disappointed either way. Your setup is going to make no difference with either size since you only have like 2 feet of charge pipes, but once you add up 6-10 feet of tubing and elbows, that extra half inch accounts for a lot of extra space to fill up.

 

I'm going to talk to cx today..... I put my intercooler on this weekend. That was such a pain in the a. Tons of cutting, fitting, refitting, but it came out super nice......! I'll post up a couple pics tonight.

Intercooler cuts.....





And I think it's logical to have a 2.5" outlet on my turbo, mainly because the smallest part is my maf housing, it's 2.5" on one end. If cx doesn't have a good 2.5" with the bb, etc., then I'm going to run with it. I already started on the charge pipes going up through the front end. Oh, and I sanded, cleaned, and rolled bedliner on my rocker panels......Looks sick....

 

What failsafe should I get for my methanol? I only see an aem for like $ 260. I was going to add a second nozzle, I have a 5gph, but I can do all that later. The 5 will be good until I start heavy boost.

I talked to cx, they are going to swap out my gt35 for a gt30. Little bit smaller. Should be better for spool. Plus it has a 2.5 inch outlet. I only have to pay $12 shipping. Thought that was pretty cool.

 

Images of intercooler and bed liner on rockers. I will eventually build steel and a mini skid around the intercooler.

Intercooler.....




Bedliner on rockers.....

 

Looks wicked dude!

 

Sweet! I am soooooo excited man.

 

it makes sense what you are saying about the maf. I'm going to mount mine pre turbo as well. If you look at the stock intake system or a cold air intake the maf is also just right after the air filter. No psi is imposed on it, where as in the charge system it is under pressure with compressed air flowing through it possibly scewing the readings.