OK, the 3.5 should be a good engine

If the shift lever of the new is anything like what Toyota does for the shift levers in their other six speeds, I think those unfamiliar will really like it. I find the 5 speed gate to be a PITA going through all those notches from a low gear to reverse. In my wife's Venza, it's two clicks and much much simpler and quicker to operate. That in itself will make it better. Once you use it, you will see why in most driving, the manual is archaic and less efficient to drive as well.

 

What massive power consuming gizmo's were added between your 07 and my 13? All I can see different is the radio, and if that goes most people would never be stupid enough to replace it with something else from Toyota...

I mean I have VSC but that doesn't consume any more power considering it's the same computer as the ABS, and last I checked usually the ABS module is about the last thing to die in most trucks. Even when it's dead most people don't replace it...

 

Don't forget that in that universe, diesel is spark-ignition, and supercharger makes way more power than turbochargers

 

Because you can't have crawl control with MT?

 

apples and oranges.

full size vs mid size.

 

You bet. That's my point. Don't try to make an apple an orange. Don't try to make a Tacoma a full size. It's not worth it, it'll change the entire way the truck behaves.

 

You VSC system is actuall much smarter computer vs couple transistors in 07.
Entune radio? add 50W
JBL speakers instead of two cheap ones, add couple wats right there.
Temp sensor, display in mirror add more power.
Daytime running lights, couple wats extra
When you add up all this its significant number...

This is why Old cars could get away with 60 Amp Alternators, now 130 Amps is minimum. Where all that electricity comes from? From burning fuel.
Don believe me, Hook up meter to check power draw as soon as you trun the key.

 

Smarter computer maybe, but the odds are it's drawing more than 2-3 watts is doubtful.
My 2013 has no Entune.
No JBL.
Okay, my backup camera, temp sensor, and light adjusting mirror is a feature you don't have. However I like it. I'll sacrafice 10 watts maybe there.
DTRL are the law in Canada, everything for the last 20 years has those up here, even 2007 Tacoma's.

Your right, back in the 70's an alternator could be 60 amps. Back then they had no ECU, no powered dash, no electronic fuel injection, no high pressure fuel pump, few lights, small HVAC systems, no power windows, no power locks, etc. However a 2007 Tacoma in my body style is going to have the same alternator as my truck and MAYBE 15 watts more power draw. 15 watts is about an amp of current on our trucks. A WHOLE AMP OMG.

 

My 08 is simple. All is has (had) is ABS. None of the fancy traction stuff.

 

Some of us just like driving manuals, even though we are considered dinosaurs.

I dunno, just something about it...that whole being connected to the machine, and an action that becomes a reflex, than having to think about it...zen like if you will.

That and...my dad has been in a wheelchair since I can remember...pushing that clutch pedal in reminds me not to take my legs for granted.

We are getting to the point where machines are doing everything for us...driverless vehicles are knocking at the door....think Americans are fat and lazy now...just you wait.

 

15 watts is a lot considering energy to power that comes from gasoline at 30% efficiency at best. Leave 15 watt bulb on for a month.
If I don't need any of this things why would i waste money on them (not only to buy them but to power them)
Why don't you check yourself how much your trucks draw, its a simple calculation, you may be very surprised.
I did, compared my 07 to my wife's truck that is fully loaded. (that includes double entertainment system)
Difference came up to $20 per month in fuel ($4 per gallon) if driven 40 miles per day 5 days a week, 4 weeks in a month.
$20 per month is $240 per year, x 10 years of truck ownership that's $2400
This does not include seat warmers but those are crazy power draw.

 

A truck is going to have more variance from the fuel injection system than 15 watts. A bigger consideration is that your wifes truck probably has the tow package and yours doesn't. Toyota puts a different alternator on trucks with the tow package that has a lot more parasitic draw. That's where your biggest difference likely coming from. Then again when I tow my trailer it's battery charges which is a feature I need.

I think you are making a critical mistake talking about 30% gasoline efficiency in this regard. Again, you are talking thermal efficiency. How much heat energy is harnessed into mechanical work. Did you know at peak torque a gas engine is about 75% efficient. Also at idle any combustion engine is at 0% efficiency, since no work is done. So don't use that 30% number to calculate extra draw on the alternator, it won't be accurate. Trust me, you need to read more into what those efficiency numbers mean, you are over simplifying. In order to talk about draw from parasitic systems, you would need to recalculate the amount of work each system is doing and factor it into your efficiency numbers, which would increase.

While I can understand where you are coming from, I'm not concerned about the extra gas from 1 amp. Being able to open my garage door without an additional fob and line up my trailer perfectly every time is worth the extra few cents a month.

Just a heads up expect even bigger alternators in the future. Vehicles are going to start moving to electric power steering, electric A/C, and other electric items. The good news is that the alternator will have lower drag on the crank than the A/C and power steering pump, which helps gas mileage.

 

Nice post man

 

Oh am I?
I am using "thermal efficiency" because :

So i supply energy contained in gasoline, I need to know how much that energy gets converted to mechanical energy. and how much is a loss.
Alternators are around 95% efficient and belt that transfer energy from Engine to alternator is near 100%
If I included all the extra numbers my Dollar value loss per month would have been higher. But for simplicity I only use thermal efficiency.
Look, If you dont believe me (and you don't have to, because on Internet not everything posted is true), I suggest, measure your electric draw than go to your elementary school Physics teacher and ask him to do numbers for you.

 

Boom.....Head shot

 

I took a year of Physics at the university level. You know, they type where we learn that your precious efficiency number is a function of work. An engine at rest isn't doing any work, so the efficiency is zero. An engine moving a load is at work, but depending on how much fuel is going in and how much power is produced WHICH IS NOT LINEAR AT 30% coupled to the amount of load, your thermal efficiency number will vary.

Naturally aspirated gasoline engines AVERAGE about 30% efficiency, but can swing anywhere from 0-70% depending on the load. Forced induction gasoline engines average about 40% and your precious Diesel Forced Induction engines get closer to 50%. However an engine not moving is doing 0 work in moving, making it 0% efficient. However if you consider it's driving it's A/C compressor, power steering pump, alternator, and any other crank loads then you will have an efficiency number. However, because your cherished 30% or 50% number is an average, not an at idle number, your actual efficiency would need to be recalculated using the amount of gasoline and the exact measure of work being done to be calculated. Trust me, it won't be 30% .

Ask a physics professor .

 

Waiting on this thread to get locked over derp just like the rest of them.

 

I think you should have taken more than a year.

Look my English is bad and that is a fact, but physics...
Since my English gets in a way often I am just going to quote Wiki.

I think your posts entitle you to a refund for your education.