OK, the 3.5 should be a good engine

Yeah, I have to admit despite being on the butt end of the joke it was funny.

 

To pass that pesky short school bus

 

Well I can say.. towing 6k lbs with the 4cyl, and 6k lbs with the v6 produced the same MPG between 8-11 mpg. Towing with the doublecab tundra 4.7 autocrap, or the landcruiser 100 series with 4.7 and of course the autocrap. Both of the v8s towed pretty nice considering their size and all but I returned 6-9 in the same conditions as the tacoma s.

the landcruiser was a comfortable ride though!

I would choose my 6spd manual tacoma with brake controller any day over the 2006 tundra I towed with.

This is an opinion based on facts, and preferences. The Landcruiser made an annual 2400 mile trip with the trailer loaded. And that 4.7 purred at 270k miles when it was sold! The only thing that ever went bad on that cruiser was a starter and a muffler!

 

I still have hope it will be a hood engine. It should be. Its still the 2nd biggest tacoma engine ever, in now the second lightest tacoma ever. As well as the highest power and efficiency of any tacoma ever.

Now that doesn't mean im going to like it. I love my 4.0, its the first toyota v6 I actually care for. The 3.4 is a good engine but I don't want one.

I just got my new 2015 and likely going to keep this one until 4th gen tacoma is rolling out anyway!

And the HP gauge.. well last time I used that it told me I was using 260hp (236 sae crank hp, somehow magically found 24!) My point is that those things are not accurate. Nice rough guide use able for economy but useless in comparison to another vehicle in any fashion.

 

I enjoyed the 6 spd manual on the Tacoma, especially on the desert roads downshifting through the gears just feathering the brakes a little to get set up to take a corner. I never had clutch problems on that truck, it was a blast slamming through the gears.

Towing, the manual was a PITA trying to get the trailer situated where I wanted it, I could smell the clutch burning. Trying to move a 4000lb trailer onto some rocks to get it leveled, trying to move it just a few inches I had to keep feathering the clutch and it would burn pretty good. Auto trans is better for that.

 

Backing heavy trailer with the 6spd can be a bitch because it has a stupid reverse ratio. But over the road etc the 6spd is far happier, no gear hunting and none of the other problems that come with autos.

Win some lose some. Its definitely not for everyone anymore I just prefer it myself! Actually thought about a late model 1st gen tundy v8 with manual swap. Decided the interior while pretty roomy was just not as comfortable for me as the Taco.

 

Sounds like you need a new gauge.
Also, it is selfish and foolish to think that because your gauge does not work, that all gauges do not work.

 

Yeah, my HP gauge usually throws out numbers on acceleration around 150 HP with open throttle. My truck dyno'd in Calgary at just under 300 HP to the rear. So those gauges mean very little to me.

BTW my Scangauge reads the HP right from the on board computer. Replacing the gauge wouldn't do anything .

 

Ahem

 

If my wisdom teeth weren't making me wince and my wife wasn't taking care of our two week old I'd make some right now! I'll get some up in this thread at some point.

Getting back to the 3.5 L I think Toyota would be really silly not to have the 3.5 L throw out some better numbers than the 1 GR. With a bit of design work and modern technology it's not hard to gain power and fuel economy over a 10 year old design.

 

We'll see what the 3.5 does at the rear wheels. It has a good torque curve in previous iterations, 90% of peak torque at 2000 rpm.

I'm wondering if it can be chipped or SC'd. I see the GM 3.5L is already chipped supposedly gaining 30HP/30 torque.

 

Actually, that sounds about right. The dyno increases the resistance to simulate loading the vehicles power train. Were you fortunate enough to see what the scangauge read while on the dyno? You could simulate it by adding a trailer or load in the bed and accelerating with WOT while climbing a grade.

 

Again, the gauge means very little to me. I don't need to know a computers guess at what my truck takes to move...

The computer attempts to match throttle settings, fuel flow, and air flow to tell loading. The only problem is between my engines boost and a million and one other variables the number isn't going to be accurate. I believe the reason the ECU calculates it is to tell when a valve leak is developing, requiring more power from the engine to do the same task according to the ECU ratings.

 

I wouldn't chip a gas job. Bad idea IMHO. Ask around, most guys who don't get a custom tune done well end up with short life motors.

I'm sure someone will come out with a boost kit. I'm about 50/50 on whether or not TRD will. On one hand they make a lot of TRD S/C compared to what other manufactures who offer a boost option do. On the other Toyota didn't make one for the Dual VVT version of the 1GR.

 

Actually those 1st gen Tundras do come with manual transmissions.

http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/633033423/overview/

 

I agree. There is no reason for Toyota not to improve every number.

You said you had just under 300HP. Isn't the S/C suppose to put you at 304?? Also, you have a CAI and cat back. Shouldn't that put you closer to 315 or so? Is the weight of your armor taken into consideration with the hp runs?

Yeah S/C>Chip for me. The chip sounds like it utilizes you reliability factor whereas the S/C utilizes more air.

Also, I really hope there is an S/C for the 3rd gen. If I am successful enough within a few years I am hopeful to buy a 3rd gen and supercharge it if the reviews are good. Or I may keep my 2nd gen forever. Who knows, a house comes first.

 

The S/C gives me +300 HP off the crank. However that translates back to somewhere around 260-270 HP at the wheels, where a dyno measures power. With the exhuast, intake, and a gatorback belt I dyno'd at just under 300 HP to the wheels, which adds up to about 330-340 HP off the crank. I can't complain. I do wish I hadn't of killed off my old iPhone which had my dyno chart on it .

I'm hoping to get a better pulley, an AFR gauge, and maybe the MAF calibrator next year to finally get over the 300 HP bump. Stock on the S/C you are no where near 300 HP to the wheels, but you are still way better off than stock N/A which gives you about 200 HP to the wheels .

House is definitely a good priority . The problem with most chips is that most gas engines are pretty close to the design edge anyways in the last few years. Trying to milk out a little more power often ends up with a shorter lifespan on the motor. It's not a for sure thing, but I'd rather get the power from somewhere other than the safety margin of the AFR.

 

That's what I'm saying with my post, I'd rather pay more for the S/C than blow my engine. But we're Toyota people And thank you.

As for HP, uh oh, so what's our stock HP at the wheels? Hopefully not 236, else the S/C is not actually a 68HP/TQ gain. How can you reduce the amount of HP lost through the drivetrain?

 

Sorry I just posted that in an edit. Stock the Tacoma is around 200 HP to the wheels. It takes about 10% of rated power to turn the transmission, drive shaft, axle, etc.

 

I think he was originally thinking to have a 4.7L V8 and manual trans. 1st gen Tundra V8 was never available with manual trans. But the 3.4L V6 had the 5-speed manual and 4.0L had the 6 speed manual optional. Although the 4.0L Tundra was NOT available with 4x4, that would be a sweet rig!