Add Factory Cruise Control to your 1st Gen Tacoma

For those of you who don’t have cruise control, or have after market cruise control, this thread is for you. This summary is based on a 2004 Tacoma, and I believe that a few earlier models apply as well. When I purchased my Tacoma from the dealer, I requested all options. My truck arrived with no cruise control, so I informed the salesman that this option was specifically requested. When asked about it, he said “oh, it just hasn’t been added yet”. I replied, “ummm, this is something that should have been added when the truck was built”. He informed me that Gulf States Toyotas don’t come with factory cruise and that aftermarket systems are normally installed at the port. I have been angry about this for four years up until now…well, I’m still mad at them for misguiding me.
It is surprisingly easy to add factory cruise control to your 1st Generation Tacoma (Except 5VZ-FE 2WD M/T, 3RZ-FE and 2RZ-FE). So what I am getting at is: all of the 6 cylinder A/Ts and 6 cylinder M/Ts with 4WD already have most of the equipment needed for cruise control. The actuator is the electronic throttle control motor and the brain is the ECU. All of the wiring already exists and the light is already in the instrument cluster. To complete the system, you must add three things to your Tacoma. These things include a break light switch (84340-04030), Clutch Switch (88280-14030), and the Speed Control Switch (84630-0C010).
First, the break light switch on your non-cruise model already has four wires going into it, but there are only two tabs on the switch. The other half of the receptacle is a dummy. This will have to be replaced. The best place to get this switch is Auto Zone. They seem to be the only one to carry it after market and it is only about 25.00 compared to the dealerships 52.02. The new one will plug right in and all four connecters will be used at this point.
Second, the clutch switch is necessary to cancel the cruise when the clutch is depressed. This is an additional switch that must be added to the clutch peddle where the bolt is inserted…you can’t miss it. This switch is only 21.00 from the dealer, and I can’t find it any where else. The connector for this switch will be tapped up to a harness that extends down in front of the left kick panel. It is a black/red wire and a black/white wire connected to a white two wire connector. Just un-tape the connector and plug it into your newly installed clutch switch. If you choose to not use this cruise cancel option (not recommended), the engine will rev pretty high when the clutch is used and the cruise is controlling the vehicles speed. To bypass this option, simply short the two wires in that connector together so that the rest of the system will work properly.
Third, you will need to get a switch for your steering wheel. This is the part where you may have to compromise with originality. For instance, I had to use a steering wheel from an 01’ Solara. Technically, all steering wheels from the Tacoma are the same (cruise model vs. non-cruise model). However, the plastic shroud on the back of the steering wheel is specific to cruise/non-cruise models. Unfortunately, Toyota doesn’t sell just the shroud… you must buy the entire steering wheel. If you really don’t care about perfection, you can cut a small hole into the side of your shroud, and it will bolt right in. If you do care about that perfect cut hole and the rubber guard that surrounds the switch, then you might have to either go to a wrecking yard, or you can find a steering wheel on ebay.
Finding a steering wheel with cruise control might not be as complicated as you think. All Toyota steering wheels to my knowledge have the same spline… just look for one that has a cruise switch in it, or even one that has the hole and the switch has been removed. Switches are also easy to find on ebay for a low cost. You can use a wide variety of switches with little modification (See next paragraph about modifying the switch). Airbags will be an issue if you don’t get a Tacoma steering wheel. I have noticed that airbags for some steering wheels are cheaper than others. For example, I chose a Solara steering wheel because the airbags tended to be cheaper on ebay, and the one I found was leather…guilty pleasure. Lucky for me, the airbag plugged right into my existing connector and it registered with the computer, so I didn’t have to swap the scibs for it to work.
Modifying the switch is the most technical part of this project. Most of the older vehicles (90’s through early 2000) use a three wire switch, where our Tacomas use a two wire switch. You will most likely find a three wire switch at a good price, so you will have to modify it. If you feel you are not able to do this, which involves soldering and a slight understanding of circuit boards, then I will gladly do it for you FREE of charge. All you have to do is send me the switch with enough postage for me to send it back to you. I will provide the resistors and labor at no charge. I will leave my email address at the bottom of this entry if you need to request my address for shipping. I can do the modification pretty quick, so don’t worry about time…just a couple of days for shipping. I am willing to do this modification free because when I did it, I had to order 100 of each resistor, oh, and because I love you guys…Needless to say, I can modify up to 99 switches before someone has to front money for more resistors. Please note, if the switch you obtain doesn’t have the correct connector attached (if the connector doesn’t match the one hooked up to your spiral cable), then you will have to send me the connecter that is currently installed in your truck, which involves disabling the horn for the time being…simply disconnect the black wire from the spade connector.
For those brave soles that will modify the switch yourselves, you will need to check the resistance for all three functions to make sure they are in range. If not, then you will need a 240 ohm, 390 ohm, and 910 ohm resistor. Disassemble the switch with snap-ring or hog ring pliers by forcing the two walls of the switch apart so that the top can slide out. The resistance ranges are as follows: reset/acc 235 – 245 ohms, set/coast 617 – 643 ohms, cancel 1509 – 1571 ohms, On/off 0 ohms. When the listed resistors are in place, they operate in series to obtain the desired ranges. For the on/off switch, simply cut the white wire that comes from the connector and solder the end that comes from the switch in with the red wire on the circuit board. The remaining white wire can be extracted from the connector. The red wire should be in #5 of the connector and the white/black wire should be in #4. The black wire (horn) will remain in #6. When completed, just plug it in and it will work.
Getting the right color steering wheel and airbag is nice, but there are paints such as SEM Classic Coat and SEM Color Coat that have factory colors available. I painted my ivory leather Solara steering wheel with Classic coat, and it looks identical to the existing color in the truck. The airbag that I obtained was black, but with only three coats of Classic Coat, it looks like it came from the factory for my truck. The steering wheel and airbag match perfectly, and the steering wheel still feels like leather.
When you get right to it, replacing the steering wheel is the biggest issue when converting to factory cruise control, but this really isn’t that big of a deal. You will need to use a steering wheel puller (can be obtained at Harbor Freight, or any automotive supply for about eight dollars) to remove the steering wheel. Make sure you mark the spline and the steering wheel with a marker so that you can put it back on straight. This project is really worth it when you consider getting rid of the after market cruise control or even if you don’t have cruise at all. The factory cruise works so much better than aftermarket cruise, and you get the indicator light in the dash, plus a switch in the steering wheel that is easier to operate.
Legal jargon: While I feel confident that all of my instructions are sound and well planned and researched, I am not liable for any damage or injury that may occur from this project summery. If you don’t feel capable of working with the airbag system, then have a qualified mechanic do it for you. Any modifications that I may perform on any switch sent to me will be with absolutely no liability to my self. I will bear no liability for any modifications that you perform on your switch using my instructions.
Contacting me: If you have any questions about this conversion, or want to send me a switch for modification, please email me at brando113@hotmail.com. Good luck, and don’t worry, it will work!

 

I'm afraid I'm an excessively visual person. Has anybody done this? If so, got pics to post?

 

x2

 

i wonder if this will work on a 2002 4runner.... it has the throttle by wire. i might strip the cruise control parts out of my tacoma and see if it will work in my 4runner.

i went to the dealer about this a while back and they said it would be impossible without changing alot more stuff.

 

Brando, can summarize this a bit?! The huge paragraph is hurting my brain! I did manage to read it though! I think you're forgetting some things though. For certain models (like mine) you'll need the throttle actuator and cruise control computer. This is why I just went ahead and bought the kit from toyotpartszone. It came with a harness and went in with no problems.

But I like your idea! Something tells me that you spent alot less than what I spent on the kit as well!

It may be helpful if you were to list some of the parts that you had to scavenge for and what models they came off of and the total cost for you to make this mod.

 

JDBECK23, please see in the first part of the summary, with the sentence that starts with "it is surprisingly" for a list of model exceptions and a list of parts and part numbers. For prices, just keep reading. As far as the steering wheel and switch, its up to the ebay market to determine that. You are right though, with the models that I have described, the modification can be done for under 100.00. I do appreciate you bringing my attention to toyotpartszone, I need to check that out. By the way, I posted this over two years ago, and have just started getting emails and replies now. Did this post just appear?

 

No, it's been up for a long time. I just dug it up, since I was thinking about trying to add cruise to my truck.

The actuator I'd need since there is no throttle by wire for mine is 1100 bucks though. I might see what I can find at a junk yard.

 

Mines already got it

 

For those of you who fall into the catagory of 4 cylinder or "V6 extended cab manual trans 2wd", this modification isn't for you. I suggest not buying a toyota kit, but buying a Rostra 1223 gobal cruise kit. I bought one not long ago off ebay for about 200, and it worked great. As a matter of fact, its what all the "gulf states toyota" dealers used. I have info on that as well if anyone is interested. It beats trying to piece together something from the junk yard and not being sure if its going to work or not...or even paying a unbelievably high price for the toyota kit.

 

Gotcha, missed that part! Sorry, it makes sense now.

FYI, the toyotapartszone kit is $230-ish and works great for the 3RZ.

 

I know this post is 5 years old, but I just did this and it works! Thanks OP!

 

hmmm, very interesting.

is this going to work for every automatic first gen 2wd truck out there?

 

I think you need this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2001-tacoma-cruise-control-install.336686/

 

thanks

 

My post only applies to models with electronic throttle control servo. I think thats 03 and 04 models.

 

I thought mine was. It is an automatic Trans btw.

 

update, im very happy to report it is just that easy, I love 2004 tacos lol.

put in the new used parts:
(steering wheel part #45100-0C090-B0) the gray one (also used in tacos and sequoia) (mine was pulled from 2002 sequoia)
(steering wheel part #45100-0C090-E0) the brown/tan (also one used in tacos and sequoia)
(speed limit control switch part #84630-0C010) used in tacos and sequoia as well as lexus and scion (mine was pulled from 2002 sequoia)

with the switch, it comes with the black wire already on it so you just unplug the dummy plug from the non CC wheel that only has the ground wire and plug in the CC switch being sure the black wire runs behind and under the metal framework of the wheel.

 

Hey guys, i’m relatively new to TW. This thread is awesome, Brando113 went to a bit of trouble to do this explaination and i greatly apriciate it. This thread and a couple other cruise control threads have helped a lot.

Went to the boneyard yesterday in search of the few things i need to piece together an OEM CC sytem for this pre-wirred Tacoma i have. Found some of what i need. I know this is an older thread but if anyone is still following it i still have questions.

Control Module:
I have a 2000 Prerunner ext. cab 3.4 w/ auto trans. The best info i’ve been able to find says Part #88240-04030 is the correct one. Best price i’ve seen for one so far is 95.00. I see other modules with part #s off by only one digit(...06030, etc...) on ebay for like 10-15$. The connection looks exactly the same, the rivetted bracketry is different. Can it be that one of these other modules(meant for an auto-trans vehicle) will work and i can just fab my own bracket? If so, someone with experience tell me about interchangebility with these modules.

Thanks in advance,

Hammer

 

dont do it, get the one for your truck

 

upon further reading...
it looks like my rig doesn't require a module at all as the modules are built into the actuators for the 5vzfe trucks. Anyone want to confirm that just for my own warm and fuzzy?

so now...
I have an actuator and it's harness I got cheap from the boneyard. It is part #88001-0w030.
Has anyone been able to substitute:
actuator# 88001-0w030
for
actuator# 88001-0w010??
I'm including the pics i took of the harnesses and a drawing i made to show the seven wires(out of 14) that are different in color.

So...
I made coffee and set out to search the webs to find free wire diagrams so i can understand the purpose of each of the 14 pins on each of these actuators and get ready to do some pinouts if necessary. I figured if this can work at all that's what it'll take. Many hrs of searching and I found me a full FSM with wire diagrams for the 2000Tacoma so that's generally awesome. With it, I see the purpose of the *010 pins. Now if anyone wants to share w/ me a pinout drawing of the *030 or maybe a cruise control wiring diagram for the 98 4runner, that would be nice.

and now I see...
toyotapartsdeal.com has each of the two listed as being peculiar to certain automatic transmission/vehicle/Trim package(my Tacoma has a VZN195L and, acording to TPD, calls for the the ...010 actuator) combinations W/ *030 applications being restricted to 4runners. Also interesting to note is that when I look at the used ones on ebay that still have a chopped harness on 'em, I'm seeing either of these 2 harness color layouts on either of the 2 actuators which emboldens me to consider giving it a try as is. I have the actuator bolted up and cabled to the throttle already.

What y'all think? Anyone who's done something similar already, jump in here and tell me what ya learned! I ain't goin any further without some more info.

Hammer