Boot Slide mod. No more blowing cv boots.

The only way the glue method can be reliable is if the surfaces are absolutely clean. This is nearly impossible unless the boot is removed completely. Any grease contamination will compromise adhesion. Even the residual "mold release" wax clinging to the rubber can cause problems. Then there is the issue of re-clamping the boot on top of the shoulder of the groove. The shoulder acts like a taper and the boot "wants" to slip back to the groove, the tighter the clamp the more it wants to slide back. Sliding the boot all the way onto the "flat" portion of the shaft is too far.
For maximum reliability I once recommended that folks do this job (glue method) at the time of a re-boot so things could be good and clean and the weatherstrip adhesive given a chance to air dry a few minutes before assembly. "Good and clean" in this case means lots of rubbing and solvent with any paint removed from the shaft. "On the bench" also allows a good eyeball on just where the boot is placed with respect to the groove shoulder.
3/8"-1/2" at the most is all that's needed to keep the fins apart. Any more needlessly stretches the boot and has led to tearing. "Older" boots seem to take a "set" with age and can tear when stressed beyond their accustomed range, start with a new boot.

Enter the "internal stop". This is nearly foolproof and allows the clamped area of the boot to sit right on top of the groove shoulder. The clamp need only be tight enough to prevent grease seepage.

This is the preferred internal stop. It's the (small) end of an old boot backed up by an old inner "tulip" joint c-clip (not my pic). Also see the pics in my original TTORA posts.
The red arrow below shows the shoulder of the groove in question, boot stop placement and also some caked on "mold release" agent previously mentioned can be seen coating the boot.
Questions, just ask.


Up till now I stayed out of this thread due to all the folks "talking themselves into believing each others BS" before I even heard of TW. The mods have deleted at least half of it.

 

I did it exactly as the instructions said. I totally disassembled the CV shaft and used new boots. I sanded and cleaned the the shaft with acetone. Also wiped the boot to shaft mating surfaces with Acetone to make sure the it was totally degreased and dewaxed. Used the 3m weather strip adhesive as suggested and waited a full 24hrs and used the appropriate clamps. The boots slipped back to their original location in less than 100 miles. That method just doesn't work. It was fun taking it all apart though.

Now the internal stop I think will work. Where would I get 2 of the internal stops?

 

It didn't work for you.
I don't know what to tell ya other than the internal stop is the best bet. Glue has worked for many folks over the years, but then lots of folks have problems. The "mold release agent" can be pretty tenacious. 2 of my 3 shafts are "glued" and have seen 200K and 13 years.
As I mentioned the internal stop is the way to go though. The quickest, easiest one is the old boot end + old c-clip seen at the right in the pic below. All kinds of things could be used, I mentioned a few in the TTORA thread.

 

Ok. If I ever need to replace the CV's, I will definitely be doing the C-clip modification. Rob the clips off of the old CV's.

 

OEM inner boot kits come with new clips, all 3. You might notice the stack of tulip joint clips in the middle of the previous pic. You could pick up something equivalent at the hardware store. It just needs to be snug on the groove.
My initial concept was to use an off the shelf 2 piece shaft collar but never followed up on it. Just broke out the lathe with dreams of going into production, founding the boot stop fortune.

 

Well it applies to me, with my dinky non-lifted and non TRD (although it SAYS TRD right on the damn side) as i just ripped my boot and got a new one ~ which the Auto Zone guy INSISTED was the right part (even after i returned it upon my "mechanic" discovering it was too damn small). After that was when we discovered i have prerunner parts. However, since this boot was such a pain in the ass, i had to just leave the extra short one on for now & i doubt they will take it back ~~ sooo THANKS!

 

This might be an easy answer, but how the heck do you get the cv boot clamp off?!?! I'm taking about the smaller one.

 

Do you recall what kind of glue you used, exactly~ by chance? That matters Greatly!

 

Where is everyone buying their hose clamps? I've been two a few auto stores, and Home Depot but can't seem to find any about 1/4" wide that are long enough to wrap around the axle/boot

 

Apparently, nobody remembers much of these details that we seek....

 

I ended up getting a two packages containing four hose clamps about 1/4" wide. I would loosen them until they opened, then put the end of another Opened hose clamp into it. So it was narrow, and long enough to wrap around the cv axle.

 

I read the opening discussion for this but I don't understand the purpose of this process. Could someone give me the short version of what this is suppose to do and it's purpose. thanks.

 

This process is "supposed" to help eliminate CV boot rib rubbing caused by a suspension lift. Boot rib rubbing causes friction between the ribs which causes premature wear leading to failure. CV failure cause grease loss and contamination that will cause CV joint failure.

 

Its mind boggling how many people are confused about how this extremely simple mod works!

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pWdd6_ZxX8c

 

If it's simple then simply explain it...

 

The small end of the old boot gets cut off and hose clamped in place about 3/4" farther out on the axle shaft. New boot gets slid on over the small piece that is hose clamped in place. attach the large end of the boot with the supplied clamp as usual. The small piece of boot that is now clamped in place inside of the old boot forces the new boot to stretch out length wise so the fins are not touching when the CV is at a more extreme angle caused by a lift kit. Thats it.... simple

 

Yeah I get that. So your streaching the boot. Should be called the BOOT STREACHING MOD. I couldn't figure out what was sliding.

 

In order to stretch the boot. You're sliding the inner clamp back. That's why they call it boot slide

 

I was ultra disappointed to find out that my front shafts are always turning, even when not in 4WD. I am now a fervent opponent of automatic locking hubs and geez I wish there was a simple means of installing manual locking hubs.

What about using a larger CV boot? say, one off a larger rig?