Sound Insulation Survey

I think the results of this topic will be of interest to large number of Tacoma owners. If you respond, and whether or not you think the mod was worth the time and money, please share your thoughts on:

- What year and model Tacoma?
- What material did you use?
- Was it worth the the time and money?
- Where did you install it?
- If you did the work yourself, what was the most difficult part of the install?
- If you paid to have the work done, how much did the installation labor cost?

 

2011 access cab
FatMat, great price and works great, I replaced stock speakers with Rockford fosgates, stock door is very thin so I was getting little to no bass, with the addition of FatMat the door is much more dense and the bass produced is much more full
Front doors, doing floors later
Getting inside the door was most difficult

 

2011 Double Cab
CLD Tiles, MLV, CCF, Corrugated Plastic
Absolutely worth the time and money.
I gutted the entire cab and did the whole cab.
The most difficult part was finding the time. It's tedious and time consuming but its very easy.

My materials were from http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

2011 DCSB.

Raamatt and ensolite from Raamaudio. http://www.raamaudio.com/

Covered all vertical walls down with both. All 4 doors are done inside and out. Also lined all plastic with Raamatt.

Did all the work myself. Took about 25 hours to strip everything, line it all up and put it all back together. Hardest part is putting on the plastics after you added the deadener. They don't always just snap right back into place and it can take some time to get it right.

Was it worth it. Of course. I don't own one car/truck that doesn't have sound deadening installed. If you are into audio sound deadening is the best bang for the buck IMO.

 

2011 DCSB. I only did my doors where the speakers are. I had purchased speakers from Mr. Marv and he mistakenly sent adapters that weren't thick enough. In talking with him about the adapters he really recommended doing the speaker area. I made the wrong adapters "work" until the right adapters arrived. I also ordered deadening from Raamaudio. I installed the deadening when I got the correct adapters in and I was blown away at the difference. Much better sound and bass response. I ended up having to dial the bass down some. Well worth the money for what little I did.

 

I did the same thing except for the plastic, which I should have done.

Raamaudio is awesome material and they guy (I think its Rick?) was great to deal with. If you talk him through your project, he will give you what you need. Plus, I think he offers a TW discount.

 

Where is the "NO" answer. All answer are for Yes but the question is "Have you...".

 

Rick is retired now. I talk to him every now and then just to catch up and ask a few questions. I think jason is the guy who runs it now but I may be wrong about that. I've only talked to him once and he's a really good guy and knows a lot as well.

 

This.

Did the roof one weekend, the doors the next, and then the firewall and floor the following weekend. Would recommend him and his product to anyone with any car that wanted sound dampening.

 

Has it worked for making the cab much more quiet on the highway?

 

For me, yes. Very much so.

 

I would be interested in it for this reason.

 

Its probably the single best mod i did to the truck for driving pleasure and then the obvious audio benefits.
My truck is super heavily deadened but its also due to competing in car audio when i used my truck.
i have about 160 mill spec of thickness on every single panel.

 

In for responses, today was my first "long haul" in my 2011 Tacoma. 2 hours at 60 MPH was getting annoying. It'll be even worse when I get MT's

 

I bought the Raammat kit 1. Last weekend I did the doors and the rear wall. Now I've gotten slightly better sound out of my stock speakers (upgrade on order with Mr Marv), but you still get tons of noise through windows.

No amount of dampening is going to quiet the noise through the windshield, side windows, back window which is where a lot of noise comes through. Spend $100, do the basics, and realize you don't drive a BMW 7 series that was designed/engineered to be super quiet, but drive a mid-priced truck that wasn't designed to be particularly noise free.