2005-2015 Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-Xenon projector install guide

A lot of people on here have asked what would be very simple questions with sufficient documentation, so I finally had an opportunity to document an install. Here we go!

NOTE: This is the install guide for the 2012-2015 (facelifted) headlights. The 2005-2011 headlights are very similar but not 100% identical.

1) Remove your headlights from the truck. This video works well:


2) Open the headlights. You'll need a small torx bit and a philips screwdriver to get all of the screws out of the edge of the headlight assembly securing the lens, then use this guide to open them:


3) Dislodge the reflector bowl from the first mount using a flathead screwdriver to push in the two small tabs on this retaining adjuster mount:


4) The two adjusters (per headlight) back the reflector bowl out using an 8mm socket.

5) The glare guard needs to be removed. Simply bend up the two tabs for it and pop it out.


6) Due to space, the excess of the back of the reflector bowl flange needs to be cut off. I then use a belt sander to make it smooth.

Before:


After:


7) If you're going to paint anything, do it now. This guide works well for that:


8) Click the solenoid connector into the solenoid and then route the wiring through the mounting hole in the projector.



9) Mount the projector using only the silicone washer at the front and the hex lock ring at the rear. Tighten as much as you can by hand--no wrench or socket.

Rear:


Front:


10) Re-install the reflector bowl into the headlight housing, using the adjusting screws first, then clicking it into the black plastic mount.

11) Re-install the housing back on the truck, install HID system, and illuminate. Check rotation of the projector (cutoff should be level with the ground) as well as setting the height now to get it dialed in. Finished output should look like this:


12) Once satisfied, remove headlight housing from truck and add a small amount of epoxy where the hex lock nut presses against the reflector bowl. This ensures it can't spin or loosen over time.

13) Seal housing. The same temperature and time you used to open them also works to reseal them. I use large pliers to help seat the two pieces together and then re-installing all screws.

14) Once cooled, re-install housings and enjoy!

 

Did you use the adapter plate that has to have one of the notches ground to use in the 2012+ lights, or just skipped it all together since adding the epoxy?

 

Didn't use it at all. Just the hex lock ring.

Keep in mind when you cut off the "excess" from the back of the flange, there's nothing for that adapter plate to grab onto anyways.

 

Ah, makes perfect sense. Been sitting on my kit for months, just waiting for some time to do the install. Appreciate the write-up.

 

Nice write up

 

subed thanks andrew!

 

awesome! thanks for the write up!

 

Do you recommend using SteelStick between the projector and the bowl as well? Or is the mounting nut and epoxy sufficient for the D2S projectors?

 

The provided hardware is sufficient. I would only use Steel Stik on a heavier projector that doesn't have the threaded shaft at the back.

 

Thanks! Already have the JB Quik so if I don't have to go out and get SteelStik .. there's a few bucks saved!

Ordered my projectors last Friday and hoping they show up by this Friday so that I can possibly do a weekend retrofit! (my first retro) They're showing in UPS as having a shipping label created on Monday but haven't had any activity since then, but I'm hoping they are at least on their way!

 

I've got an older model morimoto d2s kit that I just removed from my 07. Looking to install on my '15. Any pointers you can give me? I've got the baking process fine, do all newer models need the backs cut off of the lights so they'll tighten down or is it projector kit specific? Here's what I've got and where they can from.

 

Getting ready to retrofit my tacoma in about a week or two. I already have the BHLM done so all I have to do is pop these babies in! Just gotta find the time!

 

What did you use to clean up the back of the housing in step 6? That looks a perfect cut from a mill!

 

He used a belt sander in one of their videos I saw posted.

I used a cutting wheel on a dremel to get the big bits off, then worked it smooth with a simple hand sander

It made a huge mess too!

 

subbed

 

Thanks for the info, did you previously post pics of your conversion? What are your thoughts / impressions?

 

I posted a couple pics in the GB thread recently. I am very happy with the outcome. If able... Try to test the projectors before you're balls deep in the install so you don't find out something isn't quite right before it's too late.

I more or less followed this thread and it was pretty straight forward install. Painting is time consuming waiting for it to dry... That's the only reason mine took all weekend. I'd recommend getting the optional extra butylft rubber too.

 

Do you need to sand the back part or can you get away with not doing it?

 

You must sand it. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to tighten down the nut on the back. I used an oscillating saw, put the sanding attachment on and sanded it level.

 

I've seen some other guys get away with it without sanding it.