Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

You beat me

 

Thanks guys

 

I have 90021 shocks in the front, and I want to leave my 884 coils behind for some with more lift in the front that would also be capable of carrying an aluminum bumper in the front and a winch, would the 885s be okay for this? I saw that the 886s don't work for the 90021s, what about the 887s? And how do the 887s fair with the height and weight load?

 

Do you think I'd lose much height with a 55 pound bumper and a 75 pound winch up there?

 

So I have an 08' AC V6 4x4. I'm getting the wheelers OME setup with 885's, NitroCharger Sports (front and rear) and Dakar leaf packs. I'm looking to get level along with the extra ground clearance. Wheelers suggested the 10mm enhancer to get the front level with the rear. Is there any con to leaving the leafs alone and using the 10mm blocks? Or is it more beneficial to remove a certain leaf out of the pack to make the rear level with the front? If so, which leaf do I remove?

 

After some digging,I understand that you either remove the top overload or the third leaf down. What is the difference between removing one or the other?

 

Good question. All I know is that the 887 coils have the same spring rate as the 885 coils but they are longer.

Not to say that the 886's are a bad choice, especially if you are adding weight in the future, just saying that the heavier spring rate of those coils might make the ride pretty stiff without extra weight

 

Removing the top overload reduces ride height by approx 1/2" , does not effect ride stiffness or load capacity

Removing the 3rd reduces ride height by approx 3/4" , softens ride stiffness and reduces load capacity

 

Thanks OZ!

 

Any insight on the 10mm lift "enhancers" from wheelers to level the truck out after installing the OME setup? Or would you stay away from the lift blocks and and remove the overload for a level stance?

 

Depends on if you want to utilize the full Dakar pack's load carrying ability or not

 

Gotcha, that pretty much answers my question. Thanks again.

 

I really like my Dakar leaf packs. I have some pics to share.

Truck has 300lbs over stock in the bed. Dakar leaf pack has overload removed, and

$77 D29XL Leaf Spring

D29XL AAL installed, plus a 3* axle shim. The OME shocks limit axle droop by about 2", this was discovered during install. If I ran longer shocks I could get more droop out of the rear, but I'm just fine for where it's at right now. Other thing to note was that I had to pry open the lower shock mount on the axle housing to fit the OME shocks.

On road it rides excellent, and I'm very happy with off road performance.

My tires are old and beat, sized: LT265/75/R16


Driver side flex, not quite maxed out, but close


Drivers side:


Pass side with 1/4" until bump stop.




Pass. side spring pack


Shiny and new on install day

 

Here are some of the front, OME 885 coils 921 shocks. Sorry not the best pics.









New on install day

 

Man, reading this thread put more questions in my head than answers! Is it even possible to put in an OME lift, and get it right the 1st time without having to tweak anything to correct problems that come up?

I have: stock '14 DC 4WD TRD OR (no plans for bumpers, winches or any armor) currently have stock tires, eventually upgrade to 265/75/15 (maybe duratracs)

I figured I'd get: 90021 shocks, 885s, Dakar leaf pack, trim packer, no top plate spacer, no diff. drop kit

The goal would be more clearance, maintain or improve stock performance/ride quality and more weight capacity in rear without sagging. I don't need it to be exactly level (similar rake to stock would be ideal). Also, I'd like to avoid increasing suspension maintenance intervals over stock (I'm lazy). Most of the time is spent on the street, hauling a couple of dirt bikes. Mild offroading on forest service roads.

1. Is it to be inferred that new bump stops are needed?
2. Does a leaf have to come out of the Dakars to eliminate the need for extended brake lines?
3. Would anything up front wear out quicker than stock with this setup? (CVs, bearings)
4. Are new UCAs needed, or does it depend on how well you can get your front end aligned after installing the coilovers?
5. Any other necessary items required, besides what comes in these kits offered by places like Toytec, or Wheelers?
6. Am I off track by leaving out the diff drop?
7. Is there a good chance I'll have to experiment w/ shims to eliminate driveline vibes?

Thanks in advance for any insight into my confusion!

Edit: Crom, your rig looks awesome, btw

 

Thanks.

I'LL TRY TO ANSWER.

1. YES, BUMPS FOR THE REAR, NEED/SHOULD BE TALLER. FRONTS CAN STAY STOCK.
   
2. NO NEED TO TAKE OUT A LEAF. THE OME SHOCKS LIMIT AXLE DROOP, SO STOCK BRAKE LINES ARE FINE. HOWEVER LONGER ONES WILL DEFINITELY HELP DURING LEAF PACK INSTALL. On the drivers side, I was restricted by the brake lines. Therefore, I had to use a 36" pry bar to force the leaf spring shackle into proper alignment so my helper could push the bolt through the frame shackle hanger. It was difficult until I found the right angle to pry from.
   
3. I don't know.
4. Peeps say you don't need new UCA's for lift less than 3" but they will / should help restore proper alignment properties.
5. Longer U bolts.
   
6. I did not buy a diff drop, I used 3* steel axle shim. Works great!
7. I don't know. I did not.

I made a thread during my leaf pack install day, there is good procedural advice it from other members, could be helpful.

 

Thank you, sir! So what exactly is the purpose of the axle shim you'd used?

I'll be checking out the info in your thread. Thanks again!

 

Yes, happens all the time without issues. I've had two different OME setups and haven't had problems with either of them. I think what happens is people post when they have problems and need help, when everything goes as expected, they don't. So you end up reading a disproportionate amount of problem posts versus non-problem posts.

And to answer your #3 above, yes, you are changing the engineered angles of the suspension so I don't think its unreasonable that parts will wear a little more than stock. Super bad? No.

 

The 3 degree shim was necessary to correct a geometrical problem created by changing the angle of the pinyon by adding a larger leaf pack.

With a two price drive shaft, the angle of the 1st output shaft (connected to transmission), must match the pinion angle. If it does not match, vibrations are inevitable.

There is a real nice YouTube video around here that explains it visually real well.

Here: Propeller Shaft U-Joint Working Angles: https://youtu.be/f1m-Fh5kiRU