Should I be proactive and install ECGS bushing while I install my Ome 884's?

I'm going to install my ome 884 springs with toytec 1/4" spacer on the drivers side soon. I've got bilstein 5100's that I'm going to run at 0 lift and stock upper control arms. I've read a lot about the needle bearing vibe when lifting. At 2" it sounds like it could be 50% that I get the vibes. Should I order the ECGS bushing and install while I'm doing the lift install? My alignment should be ok with my stock upper control arms?

 

As someone who is looking at tearing apart that wheel and suspension, with only 1000 miles since the lift... I would put one in. But, it's $130 or so more, and you do have to go pretty deep into the axle. I really don't want to do it myself but haven't found a shop to put it in yet.

 

Been wondering the same thing. Even though I only want to go about 2" I think I will go with the ECGS while I have things torn apart.

 

Do it. With the removal tool it's more of a long process than a hard one. There are several step by step how to guides on here, just search them up and do the bushing while you have the rim off and everything is still easy to take apart because it's fairly new. Just remember to retorque everything to specifications on reassembly and don't let the calliper stretch the brake line when you take it off the hub.

 

Do it. Never worry about again. Easy install, as was mentioned there are videos and step-by-step guides.

 

Thanks guys. I've already had the front end torn down to do my front wheel bearings. The only thing that worries me is getting the cv free from the diff. I plan on renting a slide hammer and pulling it that way. Installng I have. I idea. I read to have the circlip thing opening down. I was just going to install the lift without the bushing because a coworker has his lifted 2" with no problems, but you guys convinced me to go ahead with it. I hope the bushing is a lifetime item like they say

 

let me say this. I did 5100's with stock TRD OR coils at 1.75 and a 1/4in spacer on the driver side and stock UCA's. Got right at 1.75 in of lift. I needed the ECGS bushing to fix the vibe problems.

I built my own tool to pull it out so that saved me some money, but there are members willing to sell / rent you the tool, just post in the ECGS bushing thread.

I only needed to pull the tire, and then remove the lower ball joint bolts so i could swing the whole spindle (cv still attached) out of the way when i removed the cv from the diff. It did take a little bit of finagling to get it out but it came out. You need to find where the C clip's opening is facing down to make it easier to pull the cv out of the diff. The C clip compresses when it goes through the splines of the diff, with the opening facing down its MUCH easier to compress.

 

I got the CV axle out using roughly the same method described above. I didn't actually take the hub off or break the bolt that holds the CV to the hub, I just swung the whole assembly off to the side once I had the lower A-Arm and brake caliper off.

I used a 2 foot pry bar to get the CV axle out. It took a good half hour to get the SOB out but it did come out. I was going to use the redneck slide hammer idea, which is basically a steel cable with a loop on each end, to get the CV out but that would of required messing more with the hub which I didn't want to do. The two long and hard, effort wise, steps are getting the CV out and getting the bushing in. Other than that the whole job would of maybe took 90 minutes, but after those two steps it took closer to 4 hours with a supper break.

 

The biggest thing is when prying out the CV from the diff. Try, if it doesnt want to come spin it 1/6th of a turn then PUSH IT BACK INTO THE DIFF and tap on the cv / diff housing, This releases pressure on the c clip and will allow it to fall down. There will be one spot where its opening is facing down and the cv will come out pretty darn easy.

 

Thanks so much guys. You're always a great help on here. I borrowed the tool from a local toyota wheeler, all I need is the bushing and a new seal. Did you guys re-use the seal, or go new?

 

I went with a new one. My prybar work did some serious damage to the seal.

 

I stuck with the original, but i was very meticulous when removing the original CV not to damage anything, and a little bit of luck haha.

 

I ordered the bushing and a new seal. Hopefully the install goes well.

 

Do it for sure. I just made an appointment to have mine done. I've had vibes for 10K miles - since I installed my Billies at 1.75 (2.5 actual lift)

 

How much are they charging you? I'm trying to find a shop around here who will do it.

 

I didn't ask. He's my regular mechanic and I trust him(from experience) to charge a fair price. He's going to try to get a bit more caster out of my alignment too, if possible.

 

Would you post back?

 

I will, but the work is scheduled for the 20th