How To: Secondary Stand Alone Fuse Block Install

Don't know what i would do without this forum..

So would each relay need an add a fuse, or could i piggy back off of pin 86 on the relay?

 

I'm pretty sure you could split the wire before Pin 86. Relays don't pull much power. Split the wire from the add a fuse and then wire them to each of your switches and then attach the switches to pin 86 on their respective relays. (You'll need two for two sets of lights)

 

Yep, or put 2 wires in the same terminal connector from relay 1 to go to relay 2 like this 'm'

 

How does this look, assuming I'm operating 4 hella roof lights via one switch.

 

No need for multiple relays in that ^ diagram. My rule of thumb is one relay per rocker switch. So if you want your 2 Hellas to come on at the same time, wire them to be powered on with one relay. This means you would need to take the power wire from your relay (pin 87) split out from one wire made into a "Y" shape to two wires, one for each light.

Hope this makes sense. If you have hella lights the wiring kit they come with has a "Y" wire.

 

Thanks. The picture caption is probably misleading. But I would be running a total of 4 hella lights. Figured I would use 1 relay per pair and have them activated by one switch?

 

Yea, the picture is with your titles. You got this though. One relay per switch is a good rule.

 

question regarding illuminating the toggle switches. whats the best way to tap the back of the stock fog light harness? Vampire tap?

pulled from another thread. is he refering to pin 6 and pin 7 of his ottraw toggle switch?

 

Sub'd for great info!

 

Awesome thread!! I found some 1/4 thick Lexan and I am going to order the fuse panel and breaker tonight. Love this forum but it's getting me into trouble $$$$ lol

 

Question

I have everything wired, and now my toggle switch is lit 100% of the time instead of only when the key is in the acc position. I have the circuit breaker tripped so that it doesn't kill my batter. My current wire config

I have the 4 pin otrattw rocker switch

The top led is on 100% of the time. The bottom led is only lit when the toggle is activated as expected.

#8 = (+) from fuse block
#2 = (+) from add a fuse (tapped off 7.5 acc)
#3 trigger from relay
#7 ground

 

Ok. I'm about to install my C/B, 100 amp fuse protection device and fuse block. I pretty much know how I want to set it up. Wiring all the accessories isn't a problem either. I'm wondering how to organize all the relays from the harnesses like Piaa and all the other block relays. These are bulky and can be a mess without organizing them as well. All I see is the top of everyone's mounting plate, so neat and organized, but what about what you don't see (i.e: relays? Bundles of wiring harnesses, etc) I'm thinking about mounting a "L" bracket under my fuse block plate and mounting all the relays to it.

 

I'm currently remaking my fuse block plate. It will be more organized and clean now. Holes for wire to go through and the one side is for mounting relays


the block is accidentally backwards in this pic

 

Well, the LED will stay lit because it is connected to the battery (running of course through the external fuse block too). If you wanted that top LED to only come on when you turn the truck on (or not all the way on but the electronics) you need to run a relay to the switch's wire that lights up that relay. The relay would then be connected to the batter/fuse block for power, as well as a fuse in the trucks original fuse block that is only powered once the truck is on (such as the radio). This will then provide power to the relay only when the truck is on, which then allow the power form the fuse block/battery to power that top LED light.

Essentially, its a lot of extra wiring. You could do it a MUCH easier way, but I'm not too sure how kosher a method this would be, so perhaps consult someone else and DO AT YOUR OWN RISK (although this is how I would do it on my truck). I would run a wire from the trucks original fuse block (the same place that you would have hooked the relay to) and run that wire directly to the top LED in the switch. This is assuming that the pole (metal connection on the back of the rocker switch) provides power to the LED and only the LED in the switch and not your accessory. LEDs don't take up that much power, so it shouldn't hurt whatever you're tapping into in the fuse block. As an extra precaution, I would run an inline fuse on it though just to be safe. But this will do the exact same thing.

Message me if you need any clarification or have questions, it can be hard to follow, especially when you don't have a diagram and aren't familiar with wiring.

 

Thanks. I pretty much got everything figured out. I ran a positive wire from my aux fuse block to the relay, grounded the relay, and ran an accessory wire (from lights (+)) to the relay. I have one wire coming off that relay to my switch. I used power from my fuse block in the cabin (under the dash) and used an add-a-fuse to light up the leds inside the switch.

My issue now though, is when I turn on all my lights, i blow the add-a-fuse fuse, and i've had up to a 20amp fuse in there. Still trying to wrap my head around that before i add my aux reverse lights.

 

Thats very odd. I have multiple OTRATTW switches wired similarly. Off a fuse tap. You sure you put the right wires in the right place?

 

It's possible. Just looking through my pics j believe this is where I left things.

Green = add a fuse
Black = ground
White = trigger to my ditch light relay
Yellow = trigger to my off road lights

 

So it is an SPDT switch? single pole, double throw? EDIT: I saw your other post that said it wasn't

 

Also, what slot are you tapping into for the fuse?

 

Spst switch.

Tapping off the 7.5 acc