What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

all that rust brings back bad memories no offense man. hope the best of luck with your repairs

 

All most the frame is anyways.

 

So can someone chime in on if its fine to just cut and weld on the frame or does the steel need to be bent when replacing the C channel in the rear wheel wells ?

 

after its straight and the rust is replaced we are going to plate the outside of the frame from the front to rear.

 

What's different about the 4Runner plate?

 

Parked it in its proper spot

 

Here is my new additions, 7th injector kit, 2.2 S/C pulley & light weight SureGrip Crank pulley. (please excuse the filthy engine bay, been doing quite a bit of wheeling lately & haven't gotten a chance to clean it)

 

It doesn't have the orange (I think that's the color) film behind the plate. It's a white film so the LED bulb shines brighter through the plate


Woah 3 lunar mist 2000 4wd just posted in a row

 

Since 4runners use green lights their AC controls are clear, not orange like ours.

Before:


After:


I also used the 4runner knobs as well.

 

Quick question for you guys. I fucked up and accidentally put roughly 6 oz of GL4 gear oil in my front diff, the rest is proper GL5. Do I cut my losses and dump it, or can I slide with the mix? thanks dudes

 

I'd recomend putting the frame on a jig or at least jack stands, you could end up with the frame having some twist.
You should try to make sure it's sitting square and level.

 

Is that an aluminum crank pulley? I've read up a little bit on those, supposedly the OME crank pulleys have harmonic balancers in them and by installing one without it the life of the engine will be shortened drastically.

Maybe someone else can chime in, this is just what I read when I was researching the under drive LCE crank pulley.

However that is the only pulley with the balancer in it and all other pulleys could be changed out I think?

 

I don't know about shortened but an aluminum crank pulley might allow the crank to gibrate a bit more than normal. Its meant to allow it to spin up faster similar to light weight flywheel. Pro lem with that is if it's a manual transmission vehicle, lightening the rotating assembly could make it more difficult to get the vehicle moving. It'll stall easier. But in most applications, the vehicle isn't stock so they Rev the bitch up and dump the clutch☺
My opinion.... the difference a crank pulley makes is probably much smaller than what a lighter flywheel does...

U went the other direction. I put in a heavier flywheel the stock. Just try to stall my truck lol

 

Basically they were saying since it vibrated the crank more it doubled if not tripled the internal wear and tear.

 

How does the heavy weight flywheel feel with a stock clutch? like stock still?

I have a LCE 37lbs flywheel I ran with a URD stage 2 comp clutch for 2 years.. I hated it and it lead to early destruction of other parts.

I am now 100% OEM level clutch and flywheel with no issues but wouldn't mind the extra oomph of the heavier flywheel if its warranted enough.

 

Hm

I have the heavier flywheel from LCE and their dual compound clutch. I freakin love it. Grabby when i need it and i can still slip it.... i dont see why a heavier flywheel wouldnt work with a stock clutch? But id seriously recommend the dual compound.

 

how much did that run ya?

 

Alot.... great companY though, answeared all my questions and im happy i went there and a few others on this sites recommendations. Brandon, the other weekend when i got stuck up on moab hill in the golches on those ledges? Did u see the pictures? I didnt stall once and i didnt even smell the clutch at all. No smoke no nothing and i was being mean enough to barber poll my driveshaft lol. That was the first time i actually got to use the new clutch how it is designed and loved every second of it.

 

yeah saw the pics... damn that's impressive. I'll be calling you when I'm due for a new clutch...

 

Yeah the URD Clutch was garbage though and died with a bang so to speak.. was way to grabby and made daily drive traffic shifting an absolute chore, plus at the time around when I replaced it all it would slip all the time.. for around 3-4 month if i gunned it the engine would rev but I wouldn't go faster then holy shit did it stink.

The LCE heavy flywheel ran me close to $300 if I remember, its in very serious need of a resurface from the clutch going Capt Ahab on it all the time.

I replaced all the clutch and flywheel to OEM in Jan 2013 26k miles ago.

I ran a 11lbs flywheel and dual stage clutch in my old 2rz lowered single cab for years with no issues.. was like driving a go kart.