Engine overheats, coolant level drops

See above for the dipstick. Doesn't overheat when idle.

 

I would pressure text the system first. Then if you find leaks repair them. Also flow test your radiator and check your fan to verify it is operating properly

YouTube should have videos on how to test the fan.

To flow test the rad. Remove the lower rad hose and put a garden hose in the top. It should flow out as fast as you put it in.

 

Fill the resi at full mark on the bottle. You can fill through the cap but make sure it has cool down because there is pressure under that cap when it's still hot. Your oil looks fine unless you haven't had it change.

 

Here is the aftermath:

After replacing the serpentine belt, which was worn down to half its width and which eliminated the suspicion of water pump not circulating the coolant through the engine, I refilled only the resi tank and not the proper coolant tank. That caused it to overheat again rather fast. So it wasn't really the water pump even though it was good I replaced that belt. Once I realized I should have been putting the coolant/water in the proper opening (on the passenger's side of the radiator), the overheating was much slower. The truck would run about 30 mi on the interstate before the temperature gauge would start going up again.

So I stopped every 30 mi and the resi tank was literally boiling, releasing steam from the cap nozzle. After waiting for it to cool down, I would refill the coolant tank (proper one) with about 1.5 gal of water (which is how much it lost in the previous 30 mi).

There is definitely a leak somewhere in the coolant system. I noticed drippage when I took the skid plate off to do the belt, as I said above, there was persistent leakage from the lower passenger side of the radiator. It was also evident every time I stopped as it would leak out of the skid plate where it collected while driving.

My question is: what are the odds the leakage is from the radiator itself ? If that is the case, can it be fixed or does the whole radiator need to be replaced) ?

 

Replace it.

 

I was thinking the same. However, I am getting one of those pressure testing pumps to test the radiator to make sure indeed it has a leak before I get a new one.

 

No offense, but do you know how to use one? I have seen you don't know what the water pump does and where to fill coolant, you may want to get it looked at before doing any serious damage from continually overheating it. You have plenty of time to learn.

 

Again....THIS^^^

WHAT WAS THE FUCKING CODE, MAN!!!???

 

Blown headgasket. Early 2nd gens have weak headgaskets

 

I didn't see anyone answer this. You should be filling the radiator as well as the reservoir when the engine cools down. I think your main problem has been that you have not actually been putting fluid in the rad, so no cooling can occur - hence the rapid overheating.

 

There comes a time when a backyard mechanic needs to give in and have it checked by a professional. No offense meant, but this may be the proper time for that. I've RARELY seen a belt look like that and not knowing where to add fluids or what an AC drain hose is indicates a less than average knowledge of your truck. Again- I'm no mechanic, but I worked at a service department and have seen some very interesting things. I'm not trying to belittle you, but this seems outside of your comfort/knowledge range if you allow the truck's maintenance to slip until there is an issue.

I'd take it in, get the code checked- for all we know it could be a temp code indicating a sticking thermostat. Then, once that is replaced, VOILA! No more overheating. Instead of adding water, driving, adding more water, driving, etc... causing higher than normal temps in your truck to worsen other components. Preventive maintenance is just that.

The continued non-repair of what's actually wrong can lead to more and more (And EXPENSIVE) repairs as time goes on- some that may not yet be apparent and will reveal themselves much later after this repair is finally complete.

Once done, please update us on the discovery/repair.

 

The check engine light went off before I got home and was able to use OBDII

 

makes perfect sense. the truck was overheating much less once i started putting water in the radiator but would eventually overheat nonetheless (after 30 mi on the interstate). which is because there is a leak somewhere out of the rad, i suspect.

 

i did not know that for the simple reason because i had never been in that situation before. i am a lazy learner, which means i don't bother learn something before i actually need it but once i do, my learning is smoking fast. thanks for checking in but your comment is defeatists at best.

 

Isn't there an additive that can be used to "plug" the holes in the radiator if they are very small? I'd consider starting with that, letting the system "burp" and remove all air once leaks have stopped and then putting in the correct coolant for your truck- there are a few different coolant types out there- use the correct one.

Then, if there's no leaks, and the correct coolant is in there at the proper level, if you have overheating you can narrow down WHY you have the issue.

 

I have built a whole house myself, including electrical and plumbing, never having trained for it. I have completed every automotive repair I attempted successfully although I was 100% clueless in the beginning. I am also a software engineer who works with cutting edge technologies. So I have no reason to believe I can't build of fix ANYTHING since I have succeeded every time, partly due to help from online forums like this one and people who were offering the kind of advice different from "consult a professional".

So yes, I am offended by your comments to go get it checked. They are not in any way helpful and are defeatist in nature.

I'll post again once I fix the truck.

 

Did you try to scan the code? Even if the lamp goes off, you can scan it and should get the code. It may just be that the code went from "Active" to "Historical" and the OBDII should pick it up.

 

I am aware of that possibility, however, two of the symptoms of that were not present:

1. frothy dipstick
2. white smoke out of the tail pipe

Understanding that would be the less desirable case scenario, as I would have to lift the cylinder cover to replace the gasket, I am hopeful that won't be the case.

Thanks

 

I have not but will do when I get home tonight. Thanks for the idea.

 

change oil and flush coolant. I worry about a head gasket as many others have stated, and a defecting rad cap and or thermostat. you said you thought you saw a leak in rad so what happened with that?