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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. May 19, 2015 at 6:03 PM
    what road

    what road Apprentice of the Derp

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    alot still need done
    Couldn't warping be a manufacturer problem as well. Like the iron wasn't a good batch or something. I used to work at a foundry and sometimes the steel we poured would be different. Like one batch was different from a previous one, even though it was the same "scrap" steel.
     
  2. May 19, 2015 at 6:07 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    If you buy Chinese rotors, expect Chinese performance.
     
    tibblits920 likes this.
  3. May 19, 2015 at 6:08 PM
    what road

    what road Apprentice of the Derp

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    alot still need done
    China makes rotors?! I thought those were frisbees
     
  4. May 19, 2015 at 6:32 PM
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    Supercharger AntiDark Hood Light Redline Tuning Hood Struts Morimoto Projectors Grey Wire Mod Tundra 13WL Brake Conversion EBC ED Pads and GD Rotors Mean Green Starter DC Power 250A Alternator Odyssey PC2150 Battery, Artec Cage ADS shocks Total Chaos UCA ComeUp Winch, Factor 55 Splicer Relentless bumpers OTRATTW Switches, Bussman 15304-2-2-4 RTMR, Paranoid Fabrication switch brackets Jensen JHD3630BT Morimoto XB LED Fogs Deaver Custom Springs Ivan Stewart TRD Wheels, Pro Series TRD Wheels
    Yes I read that too. The use of scrap venadium and carbide causes hard spots that don't wear as fast. They heat up and cause warping.
     
  5. May 19, 2015 at 6:35 PM
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    Who makes that valve?
     
  6. May 19, 2015 at 6:38 PM
    pittim

    pittim mittip backwards

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    I have this weird fear with drilled and slotted where something will get kicked up and get stuck in one of the holes and destroy the pads.
     
  7. May 19, 2015 at 6:40 PM
    Jarob11

    Jarob11 Well-Known Member

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    Drilled and slotted is way overrated. In all my years as a mechanic I've seen tons of those rotors crack across between the holes, sometimes after only a couple thousand miles. I really don't think its worth losing all the friction surface. I'd recommend a good slotted rotor if you have concerns about heat. Or drive like me and never use them weird braky thingies!:headbang::mudding:
     
  8. May 19, 2015 at 6:40 PM
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    Its too late for me now that I have them on order but I wondered the same thing. I'm thinking that slots/dimples might be mainly for street.
     
  9. May 19, 2015 at 6:46 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    I use a Wilwood brake proportioning valve. It's good for 100% down to 57% brake bias.

    8E9604D0-6195-491F-A264-4CD804469F41-257_b52e4708035002ce708b39170c489bb839ae084f.jpg

    Drilled rotors shouldn't be used on OE sized disks. Think about it...there are holes in the disk. Holes means less surface area. Less surface area means less pad contact. Less pad contact means shittier stopping power. It's really that simple. If you replace your factory rotors with cross drilled rotors, your braking performance will suffer.

    Race cars with crossdrilled rotors are huge. Literally 17" rotors with 6 piston calipers. Far cry from a Tacoma 12.5" rotor with 4 piston calipers.
     
    presto and tibblits920 like this.
  10. May 19, 2015 at 6:47 PM
    Jarob11

    Jarob11 Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^ what he said
     
  11. May 19, 2015 at 7:20 PM
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    Nice thanks for the brake proportioning valve info @jberry813
     
  12. May 19, 2015 at 7:36 PM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    #junkyardparts
  13. May 19, 2015 at 7:36 PM
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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  14. May 19, 2015 at 7:43 PM
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Stupid question but I gotta ask... how are you supposed to tell if the bias is adjusted properly?
     
  15. May 19, 2015 at 7:52 PM
    552Jrider

    552Jrider Well-Known Member

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    ill have to look into this. maybe that is my problem. thanks for the tip on avoiding the rear discs.
     
  16. May 19, 2015 at 7:56 PM
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    Yeah I warped a set of rotors too no clue how it happened but it was an ebc kit and I properly broke them in. I believe the proportioning could definitely increase the likely hood! Guess I'll get new drums and odd for the back when I go to do the tundra swap
     
  17. May 19, 2015 at 7:56 PM
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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  18. May 19, 2015 at 8:13 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Go on a dirt road. Drive at 20-30mph. Slam on the brakes. Make the rear lock first just before the fronts.
     
    SilverGhost likes this.
  19. May 19, 2015 at 9:17 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    It's completely subjective. Negro-k9's method is a good place to start. I cut off the bar that runs to the axle from the LSPV and zip tied it as high as it would go and went for a jberry test drive. Slammed on the brakes in the dirt at 70 and only the fronts would lock up while the rears moseyed around like a retarded puppy. Didn't matter what speed I tested, rears never did squat. That's when I knew I didn't have enough bias.

    My personal preference...I like the rear's to lock up just a cunt hair before the fronts do. It allows me to pitch the rear of the truck into a corner with just a slight tail brake. I tuned for my driving style, so YRMV. I probably did 30 test runs adjusting the manual proportioning valve recording with my go-pro before I was satisfied with the results.
     
  20. May 19, 2015 at 9:26 PM
    552Jrider

    552Jrider Well-Known Member

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    interesting. which wildwood valve to you have?
     

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