Engine overheats, coolant level drops

Too late. The clock is ticking.

 

OK.

 

After overheating the truck to the point it stopped running or had no power to move, more than once, you'll be lucky if blown head gaskets are your only problem. You better get those heads decked and checked for cracks. This is quite bad for the motor.

 

Play stupid games, win stupid prizes.

my favorite quote on the internetz...

 

12 pages and the OP still hasnt gotten it? Damn. Okay. There are several things that could lead to overheating. All coolant system related.

Radiator cap - how old is it? If the answer is 3-4+ years old, consider replacing it. Its a good insurance policy to prevent for future issues down the road.

Thermostat - it almost sounds like it is this, however based on your colant boiling you may have further impending issues. If you have an IR gun take a reading of the temperature from the upper and lower hose. The difference should be no more then about 20 degrees. If there is a difference between the two replace the T stat. Given that you are overheating on the highway only and not at idle that would indicate to me that its more then likely a non functional T stat. Or a blocked set of radiator fins.

Head gaskets - Since you have overheated it to the point of shut off that is not good. I may be possible you had a smaller issue in the first place but exacwrbated the issuedue to the fact you drove it to the point of shut off and steam. Either you or have a shop perform what's called a cylinder leakage test. Any shop which is reputable can perform one and knows what you will be referring to. Don't be surprised if they hit you with a high charge. As getting to the bank 2 side of the plugs is somewhat of a bitch without removing the intake manifold. 20% and under is the magic number to be under leakage wise.

Now that you have the help you need do what I have advised you on and report back. Lets hope you didn't compound the issue.

Good luck.

 

I didn't see anything about cylinder leakage test but then again I didnt read through it all so I just wanted to make sure he was good to go in that department. So get to it OP.

 

I'm starting to think AKArin has a shill account...

 

I replaced the rad cap (which had never been replaced), thermostat and water pump.

I never overheated it to the point of shutoff after the first time when it happened. After that, I was carefully watching the heat gauge and would stop after it would start going above medium and add water. That was the day when it happened not since.

There are so many people on this thread who are drama queens and trouble makers and they attribute things that never happened so they can give me crap. Which is why this thread is so long.

if you'd like to know how it played out so far, here it is. The truck ran very smoothly (so no funky noise that could be result of warped cylinder heads or cracks in the engine

The only symptom of head gaskets that I still saw after the replacements were very tiny bubbles in the overflow tank but the truck is not overheating, which may be because I had only tap water in the system as I was just testing it. Maybe it would overheat on the highway, I haven't taken it there. I have ordered a

$64 UView 560000 Automotive Combustion Leak Test Kit for Head Gaskets, Cylinder Heads and Engine Block Leaks, Gas/Diesel Engines, Dual-Chamber Tester Filters Alkaline Particles, 16oz Testing Fluid

block tester (waiting for delivery) and I am also considering buying a as well to do more testing. If any of those turn positive, I will replace all the gaskets on the engine, including the head gaskets, which should be a lot of fun.

P.S.: I really HATE this site (mostly due to its format of not having rated answers vs useless comments like stackexchange.com) but it sadly is the only Tacoma-specific one so I am forced to come here to sift through overloads of idiots, a**holes, and other forms of weirdos who clutter the few and far between useful posts.

 

I would save your money on the cylinder leakage test. It's more suited for diagnosing low compression than a very small head gasket leak.

Hope everything works out for you, and of course, feel free to message me if you have any other questions along the way.

 

Thanks. You've been VERY helpful, in stark contrast to many others on this thread.

I will start with the combustion leak tester (AKA block tester) as per your suggestion. As for the other tool, I'm the kind that actively looks for reasons to buy the next tool, even for a single application. Toolaholic, I could say But will hold off for now.