Power Steering Pump Rebuild: How to with photos

I try to search on replacing the power steering pump bearing online but couldn't find anything. So I thought I would share my experience with it. I call it a rebuild but I only replaced the bearing and seals. Did it on my 98 Tacoma 2.7. I think the 6 cylinder pump is different but probably pretty similar. You can buy a remanufactured pump for about 120 bucks at Autozone but I like to stick with OEM stuff. Cost me about 40 bucks to rebuild mine with OEM stuff.


So I could tell there was a bad bearing somewhere. I could hear it. I replaced my idler bearings (over 200k miles on them anyway), and my water pump. The idler bearings were pretty close to being shot. Still was making noise so I put my hand on the power steering pump tank while it was running and could feel the vibration. I've heard other tacomas with the 3rz make the same exact sound.

So I started out by draining the tank. You can use some kind of suction or do what I did. Disconnect the return line and hold a small cup under it. I plugged the return line while draining the resoiver.

Once now more fluid comes out disconnect the other line. This is a 17mm banjo bolt. Be careful to save the copper washers if you are reusing them. My rebuild kit came with new ones







Next, you need to remove the power steering pump pulley. I used a 17mm box wrench and put a long screwdriver through one of the holes to lock it in place. Also helps to keep belt on.
Once you losen the nut. Losen the 14mm bolt on the idler pulley. Then loosen the 14mm bolt on the idler pulley tensioner until you can remove the belt. Might be a good time to replace the belt if need be.
Remove the pulley nut and remove the pulley. I had to tap it with a rubber mallet.

Remove the 2 vacuum lines

There are 2 bolts that hold the pump on. Located below the pump. I think they were 14mm. Remove them, then remove the pump. I placed a rag under the supply line to catch any residual fluid.

Once the pump is removed, I tipped it upside down to remove remaing fluid.

It gets a little messy so I would recommend putting some rags or towels on your working surface.

Remove the (3) 12mm bolts that hold the resoiver on. Carefully remove the tank. Be careful not to damage or lose the O ring that connects the tank to the pump. Although the new seal kit came with a new one.

There is a good youtube video on cleaning the tank out. There's a small screen inside that gets plugged up. Clean it out well with brake cleaner. As you can see mine was pretty dirty.



Now remove the 2 remaining 12mm bolts. Carefully remove the cover that does NOT have the pump shaft. Make sure it is facing up. If you have it upside down all of the parts will fall out!

Take pictures or notes on how it is assembled.
Remove the spring (not sure what it's called. Keeps pressure on the housing. Like a lock washer.



There are 2 O rings that came out with the housing.

Next removing the "race" that holds the actual pump. BE VERY CAREFUL AS THERE ARE TINY PIECES TO THE PUMP. They should stay together.


I wrapped some masking tape around the pump to hold everything together. Then remove it carefully.

Next flip the pump over. Remove the snap ring that holds the shaft in. Flip it back over and tap the shaft with a brass punch and hammer until it comes out. As you can see mine looks pretty crappy.





Next, there is another snap ring. Remove it. This was kind of a pain. The seal kit comes with a new one if you destroy it.



Remove the bearing with a deep socket or something similar


I called my local Yota dealer and got the bearing for 20 bucks 90080-36085 was my part#.

I bought the pump seal kit on Ebay for 20 bucks shipped. Not OEM but looks to be good quality.
Next, I removed the seal in the pump. Tapped a new one in gently with a rubber mallet and a deep socket. A little ATF fluid helps ease it on.

Reassemble the entire unit. Should be pretty self explanatory. The metal gasket can only go on 1 way. If incorrect it will partially block one the passages. I used a thin layer of black rtv on both sides of gasket. Snug all the bolts pretty tight. I have no idea what the torque specs are.



Reinstall the new pump and fill the tank with Dexron ATF. I used Mobil 1 synthetic. Hook up all the belts and hoses. Start the truck. Let it run for a few minutes. Shut it off then check the fluid. Fill to the cold mark. Start it again and turn the wheels back and forth. This will bleed the system. Check fluid again and make sure there are no leaks. Started it up. Much quieter! Good for another 200k miles!

 

No, I didn't do spell check and No I don't know the correct term for everything and I'm sure I left some things out. I would be happy to answer and questions. I'm an Electrician with a decent mechanical aptitude just trying to help other people. After all, that's what this forum is for!

 

Nice job on the procedure and explanation.
No need to get defensive on your great effort.
I'm sorry if you felt the need to say that.

 

I don't get on here as much as I would like. Why you may ask? There are so many people who I call "forum police" Who will tell you things like " search the newbie section!". or "I did a search and found the answer right away" It's just annoying. The forum is for helping people out. Not criticizing. I do understand opinions and constructive criticism. But I have found lots of great information on here. So I just thought I would give back. Sorry if I sound defensive.

 

I totally understand.
Just to let you know it is appreciated.
And the ignore button can be used to your advantage.

 

thank you for the write up. Would you happen to have the part # to the idler bearings?

 

The bearing on the power steering pump? 90080-36085

 

Negative, to the idler pulley bearings ... You said you rebuilt those first .

My truck has a squeaking sound coming from the power steering pump that goes away as I turn the wheel. Sounds like metal to metal. I'm guessing the bearing.
My idler pulleys are shot too.

 

I think the OP did an excellent job of explaining the rebuild . The pics were good as well . We need to see more posts like this .

 

ditto,, definitely a keeper

 

Marking - I'll be back with questions once I begin to tackle this project. Thanks for the info, makes me feel better about doing it myself.

 

An article someone actually posted some real tech? Awesome!! The last one I was reading was somebody who said, "How to rebuild xxxx" and as I intently watched to see what I needed to see he said, "Step 4: Take xxxx to machine shop to do actual work."

 

Glad you guys like the write up. I'm all about rebuilding or repairing stuff if possible. Especially OEM stuff.

 

@98tacoma3rz Quick question for ya! I'm going to edit this post so I can find it quicker with my phone to add photos. It's about the seal, and if you remember it goes.

Okay, so I got my pump taken all the way apart. Found out where all the O-rings and seals go except for one. Is this where this seal goes?
I’m just checking before I rip the seal that’s in there out. Thanks in advance!

 

Nevermind! Found my answer. It is yes. Had to be very careful and punch it out. I loved your idea of holding things in the vice grip with a glove! I never thought of that. Wish I had known that method when I was changing out my Rack and Pinion because the cotter pin was stuck inside my tie rid and I ruined the threading putting it in a vice at 2 am , so I got new tie rods.
You pictures and step by step were very helpful. Thank you for this post!

 

Hey sorry just saw your questions. I honestly couldn't remember lol. Looks like you've got it figured out. lol I used a glove because I didn't have any rags.

 

Not a problem! Yeah I used a punch very carefully from the other side. It slipped and I saw the same spring as what was in my new seal, then I went to town.
Still whining like it did with the brand new pump in it, but at least I’ll get my $150 back. Next step will be to add a magnefine filter and call it good if that doesn’t work. Power steering still works and that makes me happy haha

 

Sorry to revive an old thread - does anybody know if this will work for a 2004 Tacoma?

I ran into a thread somewhere else that mentioned 2003 - 2004 4 cylinders don't have a shaft bearing, and the parts fiche does show the pump part number is different.

Anybody done this rebuild on a late model 1st gen?

 

I have a 14mm & 17mm bolt holding my pump on. The 14mm has some washers on it. Not seeing these in any diagrams. Can someone verify the hardware to mount the pump? Exact bolts and washers?